But wouldn't that happen to any turbo failing at a high rpm?
Thanks. I'm very happy with the results. It has had me considering building a second Spec V by picking one up cheap with a blown motor and doing a build.I have always wanted to just do an ebay build. For $4000 you could buy and build a 275whp Spec V
Congrats on the ebay success
I've yet to revisit the strip. I ended up reviewing that old tune and was talking with Armando about it. Turns out I was pulling A LOT of timing. Like 10+ degrees up top. I didn't have the timing retard function configured properly in the initial setup. My butterflies were also not deleted and were never opening due to them being vacuum operated. Plus it was at 5 psi.Have you negated that 14.x pass @ 97mph yet?
Or visited a dyno to see it make some power?
Well to a degree I would care about the power. If the eBay parts weren't making power, I wouldn't bother. So far though they seem to be doing excellent. I would definitely say the Precision PTE6466, Tial MV-R 44mm EWG, Tial Q 50mm bov, etc are nicer quality, but I'm impressed at how well built these eBay parts are. I think they are beyond adequate in the QC department.Who cares about the power?
The main point is that the ebay parts are as the same quality as the turbonectics, Tial, precision and garrett because it isn't breaking or falling apart.
My agreement is in the post above ^^Im sorry you think that.
Are you saying that they're not? :46:
One of my favorite memes I've found:Once one of these cheap turbos fails at high rpm and the housing explodes... you'll know then
See the above response.But wouldn't that happen to any turbo failing at a high rpm?
To a degree I'd agree with that. If it is inexpensive, functions as intended, and continues to last......... then I'm happy and this was a success.No one cares about all that.
It's cheap, it works and after x miles and x months, it's still working.
I would prefer to have a fuel system that is overkill for the power level. I'm still stock block so I'd like to have the added insurance of a fuel system that is more than capable.You don't think that the 255 is enough for 14lbs or are you simply playing it safe?
Well I now have 15k miles on the turbo setup so I'm pretty happy so far. When I had the head off the pistons were pristine. No signs of detonation etc. I'm sure I could have kept stock head bolts and stock head gasket if I were still only running 7 psi on good old pump gas. Having the head lift while running 10 psi on a motor with 143k miles (stock head bolts) doesn't sound all that shocking to me hahaha. Time will tell how much money I saved, but so far I have yet to replace a single turbo component. The turbo still has almost no shaft play just like when it was brand new. The seals don't leak either. I'm not knocking your build Barry, but I think you overbuilt your car for the power level you are after. I'm all for overbuilding a car, but only to a certain degree.it sounds like on the street he drives like me
so we are getting into the cost now
parts added as needed over time
but you can understand why i would want to start with the arp headbolts and cometic head gasket
the question for me is, where will we be next year?
will my motor still be running?
and what else will Corinator replace?
at the end will the cost be the same?
pay now or pay later
but you have to pay
if you are really going to play
time will tell
but it seems to me, we have lots of ways of doing this
and it is one of the better ways to power
if not reliability
I'm sure it is, but I would also like to be able to run a higher base pressure to be able to lower IDC on my current 900cc injectors. With a Walbro 320lph I could run a 60 psi base pressure and still flow the same lph as a Walbro 255lph at 43 psi.255 with return style is plenty big enough.
Lmao. Not trying to start a war. Just something I've heard from a few people.Barry, ol Corey here thinks that the tune I put on your car is shit.. I run like straight 30 degrees timing and that it will blow up. Pretty much the good folks at 2J dont know what we are doing. Dont let him fool you son.
Not trying to spread bullshit. I have no issues with you. I've had no problems buying your parts etc ,......... although I would prefer to have someone else tune my car. Timing maps I've been shown are very aggressive and not something I would run on my vehicle. Whether they were old, etc I just didn't like what I saw.Dont expect to spread bullshit and not have it come back at you. Good luck on your build son
Good thing I don't understand UpRev. I've never seen a timing map where it computes true timing value off how you've told it to scale. I'm assuming they have a progressive timing scaling map then? Or how else would a timing value fluctuate so much? I know the Ford ECUs are calculation based (at least when using Cobb). Apparently this goes way over my head. I'll just stick to AEM, Cobb (Subaru), and my Hondata (STi). I can understand all of those hahahaha.Anyone who understands UpRev knows that looking at a map means nothing. timing of 67 could mean 32 degrees at 2K or 19 degrees at 6K. Or timing of 54 could be the inverse. Its all in how its scaled. The numbers on a screen mean nothing, the ECU will interpret them as you have told it to scale.
So to a laymen, I can see how they would get confused. Leave it to the laymen to tune then..