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But wouldn't that happen to any turbo failing at a high rpm?
 

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No one cares about all that.

It's cheap, it works and after x miles and x months, it's still working.
 
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Discussion Starter #305 (Edited)
I have always wanted to just do an ebay build. For $4000 you could buy and build a 275whp Spec V

Congrats on the ebay success :p
Thanks. I'm very happy with the results. It has had me considering building a second Spec V by picking one up cheap with a blown motor and doing a build.

Have you negated that 14.x pass @ 97mph yet?
Or visited a dyno to see it make some power?
I've yet to revisit the strip. I ended up reviewing that old tune and was talking with Armando about it. Turns out I was pulling A LOT of timing. Like 10+ degrees up top. I didn't have the timing retard function configured properly in the initial setup. My butterflies were also not deleted and were never opening due to them being vacuum operated. Plus it was at 5 psi.

Now that it is on e85 at 10 psi of boost with no timing pulled it is a hell of a lot stronger. Right now it does nothing but spin all the way through first and second and then spins into third. If it is any indicator, I raced a 380 whp Evo 8 (e85, 272 cams, bolt-ons, stock turbo) from a 40-120 roll and lost by about a car and a half. I plan to pick up a pair of Nitto NT01R for the front before I bother going back to the strip. Would also like to pick up a WOTBox. Right now it is the summer (110+ degrees outside during the day) so I've been focused on building my civic and my STi.

Who cares about the power?

The main point is that the ebay parts are as the same quality as the turbonectics, Tial, precision and garrett because it isn't breaking or falling apart.
Well to a degree I would care about the power. If the eBay parts weren't making power, I wouldn't bother. So far though they seem to be doing excellent. I would definitely say the Precision PTE6466, Tial MV-R 44mm EWG, Tial Q 50mm bov, etc are nicer quality, but I'm impressed at how well built these eBay parts are. I think they are beyond adequate in the QC department.

Im sorry you think that.
My agreement is in the post above ^^

Are you saying that they're not? :46:
Once one of these cheap turbos fails at high rpm and the housing explodes... you'll know then
One of my favorite memes I've found:
meme71.jpg

If you know anything about turbos, you'd know it was actually a Borg Warner in the photo lol

But wouldn't that happen to any turbo failing at a high rpm?
See the above response.

no some manufacturers care about safety

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Za0DieZHMKc
No one cares about all that.

It's cheap, it works and after x miles and x months, it's still working.
To a degree I'd agree with that. If it is inexpensive, functions as intended, and continues to last......... then I'm happy and this was a success.

:D
 

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Discussion Starter #307
If anyone is still interested, not too long ago I replaced the head gasket with a Cometic .040" MLS head gasket and did ARP head studs. I figured while the head was off I would go ahead and also install the 2J-Racing high rev valve springs. I was starting to push coolant so it was clear the old head gasket was toast. When I pulled it off it was very clear that the head had been lifting (140k miles on stock head bolts). Apparently stock head bolts and single layer head gaskets aren't designed to withstand 10 psi of boost on e85 while having someone beat the piss out of the car (I enjoy driving my vehicles :D). I'm thinking about doing a bigger fuel pump (current is a Walbro 255), adding a return line, Aeromotive FPR, and then turning the boost up to maybe 14 psi.
 

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You don't think that the 255 is enough for 14lbs or are you simply playing it safe?
 

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it sounds like on the street he drives like me
yes?

so we are getting into the cost now
parts added as needed over time

but you can understand why i would want to start with the arp headbolts and cometic head gasket

the question for me is, where will we be next year?
will my motor still be running?

and what else will Corinator replace?

at the end will the cost be the same?

pay now or pay later
but you have to pay
if you are really going to play

time will tell
but it seems to me, we have lots of ways of doing this
and it is one of the better ways to power
if not reliability
 

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255 with return style is plenty big enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #311
You don't think that the 255 is enough for 14lbs or are you simply playing it safe?
I would prefer to have a fuel system that is overkill for the power level. I'm still stock block so I'd like to have the added insurance of a fuel system that is more than capable.

it sounds like on the street he drives like me
yes?

so we are getting into the cost now
parts added as needed over time

but you can understand why i would want to start with the arp headbolts and cometic head gasket

the question for me is, where will we be next year?
will my motor still be running?

and what else will Corinator replace?

at the end will the cost be the same?

pay now or pay later
but you have to pay
if you are really going to play

time will tell
but it seems to me, we have lots of ways of doing this
and it is one of the better ways to power
if not reliability
Well I now have 15k miles on the turbo setup so I'm pretty happy so far. When I had the head off the pistons were pristine. No signs of detonation etc. I'm sure I could have kept stock head bolts and stock head gasket if I were still only running 7 psi on good old pump gas. Having the head lift while running 10 psi on a motor with 143k miles (stock head bolts) doesn't sound all that shocking to me hahaha. Time will tell how much money I saved, but so far I have yet to replace a single turbo component. The turbo still has almost no shaft play just like when it was brand new. The seals don't leak either. I'm not knocking your build Barry, but I think you overbuilt your car for the power level you are after. I'm all for overbuilding a car, but only to a certain degree.

255 with return style is plenty big enough.
I'm sure it is, but I would also like to be able to run a higher base pressure to be able to lower IDC on my current 900cc injectors. With a Walbro 320lph I could run a 60 psi base pressure and still flow the same lph as a Walbro 255lph at 43 psi.
 

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but I think you overbuilt your car for the power level you are after.

i truly hope so
an engine per drag season was getting very old

theoretically the rods and pistons are good for 700 hp
and i won't go much above 400

turbo alone

but now add the n2o system [which is outside this discussion and may push the hp to 550]

and things get more reasonable
spend one day with me at the drags and it begins to make perfect sense



btw
thanks for that
i think between the these two approaches
yours and mine
90% of the turbo people fall



lets try to make it clearer

now it sounds like for legal driving
we do the same thing

call it spirited, joyous expression
lol

now lets separate the two approaches
a question will make it clear

how much time does your engine spend between 5-7000 rpm?

for me this time in a season of mt runs [and dragstrips]
is about 15 hrs [in this rpm range]

average mt run will be 2 hours or more
if the whole time you are not at least 5000 rpm
you will catch nobody and the only cars you will see, will be coming from behind


i'm not running with sentra's





those who track their car imo
will need the overbuild

those who just enjoy and maybe go to the drags
once or twice, just to see what she will do

well you already know
the stock block, enjoyed on the street, even with an e-bay turbo
has already gone 15,000 miles before pulling the head
and his tuning skills show
there was no detonation evident on the pistons

imo it is safe to say, for the experienced person
building and installing your own turbo kit on a stock block
is the cheapest way to go

[providing you are also a good tuner or someone experienced is used for the tuning process increasing costs]
imo

now the question is
how will the overbuilt turbo motor do?
compared to all the NA builds before it
even the mighty vq did not last a season
 

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Barry, ol Corey here thinks that the tune I put on your car is shit.. I run like straight 30 degrees timing and that it will blow up. Pretty much the good folks at 2J dont know what we are doing. Dont let him fool you son.
 

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Discussion Starter #314
Barry, ol Corey here thinks that the tune I put on your car is shit.. I run like straight 30 degrees timing and that it will blow up. Pretty much the good folks at 2J dont know what we are doing. Dont let him fool you son.
Lmao. Not trying to start a war. Just something I've heard from a few people.
 

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Discussion Starter #316
Dont expect to spread bullshit and not have it come back at you. Good luck on your build son
Not trying to spread bullshit. I have no issues with you. I've had no problems buying your parts etc :),......... although I would prefer to have someone else tune my car. Timing maps I've been shown are very aggressive and not something I would run on my vehicle. Whether they were old, etc I just didn't like what I saw.
 

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Anyone who understands UpRev knows that looking at a map means nothing. timing of 67 could mean 32 degrees at 2K or 19 degrees at 6K. Or timing of 54 could be the inverse. Its all in how its scaled. The numbers on a screen mean nothing, the ECU will interpret them as you have told it to scale.

So to a laymen, I can see how they would get confused. Leave it to the laymen to tune then..
 

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Discussion Starter #319
Anyone who understands UpRev knows that looking at a map means nothing. timing of 67 could mean 32 degrees at 2K or 19 degrees at 6K. Or timing of 54 could be the inverse. Its all in how its scaled. The numbers on a screen mean nothing, the ECU will interpret them as you have told it to scale.

So to a laymen, I can see how they would get confused. Leave it to the laymen to tune then..
Good thing I don't understand UpRev. I've never seen a timing map where it computes true timing value off how you've told it to scale. I'm assuming they have a progressive timing scaling map then? Or how else would a timing value fluctuate so much? I know the Ford ECUs are calculation based (at least when using Cobb). Apparently this goes way over my head. I'll just stick to AEM, Cobb (Subaru), and my Hondata (STi). I can understand all of those hahahaha.
 

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I like turbos.

And whoosh, choo choo choo choo choo...
 
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