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Idk why we all always buy 7k/7k or 8k/8k etc but we do. The vehicle weight distribution is not balanced so neither should be our springs I would think.

I obviously am one of the same F/R people but I may change that.
i run 7kg, fr and 8kg rear
this helps my rotation and dragstrip launch


but for non drag use, imo it's better to use the coilover adjustability
and some weight loss up front
to balance the weight distribution on the car

use scales

this allows the same springs all around and a more balanced platform


most companies use higher spring rates up front to
INCREASE understeer
[considered safer]

mt, runners, auto-xers, and road racers should avoid that setup
imo
 

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i run the inverted bc's and they ride and perform better
than the standard br's

way stronger too

and now BC makes for us truly independently adjustable compression and rebound units
for race cars
at higher cost of course


they are available with swift springs and internal mods for us too
but we talking big bucks here

catch the shaft size,


5 years plus, on mine
out lasted two engines, two sets of a-arms with super hard bushings
and three sets of motor mounts [all solid]

1st spring change required
for way more powerful engine and way bigger wheels and tires
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Riding on Fortune Auto now. . .

Fortune Auto 500 Series coilovers.

These things are beautiful. Hope they perform as great as they look.



8k Swift springs on all four, 24 levels of stiffness, and hand-built in the USA. Also, while not listed on the website, these are still upgradeable to 510 Series-spec or higher.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I never update this goddamn thread. . .

So!

Cliff's Notes summary on what I've done to and done with the car since my last update. . .last year.

- Fortune Auto coilovers ride nais, and have stood up to 8 autox events and numerous impromptu twisties runs. Buy them if you want coilovers but want something other than BC or TDMi.
- New brakes feel amazing, and have performed amazingly through 8 autox events and numerous impromptu twisties runs. But I need Goodridge stainless lines to complete the setup .-.
- Michelin Pilot Super Sports make for great all-around tires and are a great autox trainer tire. Not the best for setting records at autox, BUT they do force you to learn to git gud at driving.
- I have a Medusa header. It feels nice. Especially after 4k rpm, where the QR likes to fall flat on its face.
- I also have a catless midpipe. I wish I had a catted midpipe.
- I soon will have a 5-lug conversion, and a set of new front swaybar endlinks. I think my stock endlinks are making the clunking noise up front, since my coilovers are nice and tight (both the spring perches and the mounts), and the axle doesn't eem to be making any more excessive noise than it already is.
- I may indeed start getting bodywork done soon. Stay tuned for how I plan to go about it. . .
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Build Thread Update.

I got a set of 5-lug conversion hubs from TDMimports (@b15azn) and some ISR Performance 70mm wheel studs. Unfortunately for me, one rear hub had a broken tooth on the ABS ring that I wish I caught earlier.

ISR Performance wheel studs:



Anyone like my table? lol.

I'm now waiting on a replacement hub from TDMi, but it's all good.

Here's one front and one rear hub with the ISR wheel studs installed.



I didn't post it in this thread, but I had bodywork started on the car in December 2016 to accomodate my bigger wheel setup :biggrin: the shop doing the work is Bumper And Dent Co. on Kauai.

The final wheel setup is 255/40 Hankook Ventus RS-3 Version 2 tires on 17x9JJ +48et Kosei K5R wheels, with a 25mm wheel spacer to push them out to +23et. If not for the spacers, my wheels and tires would've rubbed even worse than my current 225/45s on my stock wheels. The bodyshop currently has only one fender mocked up, and they're waiting for me to get the conversion setup on the car so that everything is set properly for when they finalize the fenderwork :arms:

Mockup of one hub and a Maxima rotor from R1 Concepts with my 25mm wheel spacer on my Kosei K5R, held together with a set of Burnt Ti titanium wheel nuts from 2J Racing:



Two pics of the fender that was mocked up:




In the first pic, you can see the lug pattern conversion adapter that I bought for the shop to use while I gathered together the parts for the actual lug pattern conversion. The studs are removable, so I'm using those as the wheel spacers for the 5-lug setup.

I'm currently talking with JDM wheel importers about finding for me a set of RAYS Volk Racing RE30 Clubsport II wheels in either 17x9JJ +22et, or 17x9.5JJ +22et with a 5mm wheel spacer as a street setup wheel, so I'll probably post up about that as well later on. I've found those wheels in those specifications around the Internet, so I know it won't be very difficult to find them. It's the pricing that I needa watch out for, lol.

As a parting shot, enjoy a few concept sketches I made of the car's bodywork, as well as a fitment pic of when I used the conversion adapters to mount the wheels to the car.






The real car's bodywork will be radically different from what's been drawn, so the car may not look exactly like what's pictured at all.
@shanover, I want a grille like yours, yo~
 

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I intend no offense, but what's with the spacers? :thinking:
You're are going to an awful lot of trouble to fit wheels and to have a large selection of available wheels to still be running spacers. Buy wheels that actually fit how you want. There's countless 5x114.3 wheels available in the size and offset you want.

I wouldn't run those +48 wheels at all. There's no reason being 5 lug and running a huge spacer. There's a huge plethora of wheels that would actually fit. MOST wheels that width are available in the offset range you need with that bolt pattern.

I understand you really like those wheels. But.....they dont fit. They're far as hell from fitting.

I'm curious about them reshaping your bumper to have that body line. Couple ways they could go about that I guess.


Make sure they actually do a good job checking your wheel clearance. This doesn't look like work you'll want to have to modify later. Another reason I would start with wheels that actually fit how you want without spacers and that are a common size.
You can find 9" +20 and +25 all day every day. But you're shaping your body mods for a +23 which is an odd size.

No hate. It's cool you're going to so much trouble. I personally would not run a 25mm spacer. Plenty of people do.


PS: I like the note written on your fender ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Trust me, I'd have loved to pick up wheels that fit properly to begin with. But with my stubborn ass being the way it is, I didn't want to pick up replica wheels in the proper sizing, or buy the same cheap and light race wheels that err'one else likes to run (RPF1s, I'm looking at you). Hence, all the trouble of fitting these +48et wheels on my car, lol.

My street wheel set will fit more properly, though - as I said in my recent post, I'm talking with some JDM wheel importers about tracking down and bringing a set of Volk RE30CSII wheels (wow what a mouthful) in the specs listed above. After I get these wheels, the Koseis get retired from double street and autocross duty, and either serve as my race-only wheels, or get sold off to someone with a NC Miata. If they get sold to a Miata guy, I'm picking up Motegi Racing MR402 wheels in the same exact specs as the RE30CSIIs.

And thanks, lol. It's something I came up with that drives my motivation with this car
 

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There's a ton of wheels that'll fit.

I wasn't suggesting rep wheels. But I understand price being a concern.

And yeah. I'm sure you could sell those wheels super easy. Even being stuck on an island. Popular Miata wheel no doubt.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
NC Miatas are a dime a dozen in the state, lol. I'd have more luck on Oahu, which is where this car is going come August, when I transfer schools to finish my associate's and bachelor's in digital film media.

The shop is designing then with an extra 1/4" of clearance in mind over this current setup, so the 3mm is negligible. hell, with a 9.5JJ +22et wheel with a 5mm spacer, it'll clear perfectly and be just a hair past the edge of the wheel arch ? it's all working out so far anyways.
 

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i have no objections to the spacers
i've run with them and without

no real diff
as long as the wheels are properly torqued

i too love those kosei's

most interested in your fender mods
look good and clear the wheels well

what did that cost?
if i may ask

nice design too

great stuff going on

i use 255/40s and find they offer adequate traction
and are easier to fit [than 275s]
good choice
imo
 

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Trust me, I'd have loved to pick up wheels that fit properly to begin with. But with my stubborn ass being the way it is, I didn't want to pick up replica wheels in the proper sizing, or buy the same cheap and light race wheels that err'one else likes to run (RPF1s, I'm looking at you). Hence, all the trouble of fitting these +48et wheels on my car, lol.

My street wheel set will fit more properly, though - as I said in my recent post, I'm talking with some JDM wheel importers about tracking down and bringing a set of Volk RE30CSII wheels (wow what a mouthful) in the specs listed above. After I get these wheels, the Koseis get retired from double street and autocross duty, and either serve as my race-only wheels, or get sold off to someone with a NC Miata. If they get sold to a Miata guy, I'm picking up Motegi Racing MR402 wheels in the same exact specs as the RE30CSIIs.

And thanks, lol. It's something I came up with that drives my motivation with this car
i feel like i had a stab taken at me lol. haten on my rpf1's lol. just mad i beat him to the 5 lug conversion. he man hit up my buddy who owns new age auto parts on facebook. he sells just about any wheel u want. he ships stuff all over the world without a problem. just message him and tell him ricky sent u. should give u a discount. he is where i got my rpf1 from.


i like all the work ur going threw to fit the wheels. i when rpf1's because they r so light. got an AMAZING deal on a new set and have a new shell everything is getting transfered into at the end of the year that is in way better shape then my black car. the the main reason is i'm not going to run flares anymore. so i went with a 17x9 +35 with 5mm spacer in the front for my 255/40/17's to clear my coilover
 

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Discussion Starter #33
@2002blackspec_v, I forgot you did up RPFs and a 5-lug conversion, lol. No offense meant ? I just don't like how common these other lightweight wheels are, but I get their popularity 'coz they're inexpensive and high quality. I just didn't wanna have the same wheels as other people within the entire car community, not just in the B15 community, lol.

Does your friend do wheel importing? If he can be one more person on the hunt for RE30s in the sizing I want, I'll give him a peep.
@shanover, got it bookmarked ? gonna give it a go when I get my car back from the body shop.
 

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@2002blackspec_v, I forgot you did up RPFs and a 5-lug conversion, lol. No offense meant �� I just don't like how common these other lightweight wheels are, but I get their popularity 'coz they're inexpensive and high quality. I just didn't wanna have the same wheels as other people within the entire car community, not just in the B15 community, lol.

Does your friend do wheel importing? If he can be one more person on the hunt for RE30s in the sizing I want, I'll give him a peep.
@shanover, got it bookmarked �� gonna give it a go when I get my car back from the body shop.
i imagine he can, not very many sentra people running 17x9 rpf1s lol. but yes alot of people do run them
 

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@2002blackspec_v, I forgot you did up RPFs and a 5-lug conversion, lol. No offense meant �� I just don't like how common these other lightweight wheels are, but I get their popularity 'coz they're inexpensive and high quality. I just didn't wanna have the same wheels as other people within the entire car community, not just in the B15 community, lol.

Does your friend do wheel importing? If he can be one more person on the hunt for RE30s in the sizing I want, I'll give him a peep.
@shanover, got it bookmarked �� gonna give it a go when I get my car back from the body shop.
The instructions for the diversion panel are buried a bit deeper in the thread, but they are there
 

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Discussion Starter #36
i have no objections to the spacers
i've run with them and without

no real diff
as long as the wheels are properly torqued

i too love those kosei's

most interested in your fender mods
look good and clear the wheels well

what did that cost?
if i may ask

nice design too

great stuff going on

i use 255/40s and find they offer adequate traction
and are easier to fit [than 275s]
good choice
imo
Missed your post, Barry ? forgive me for that.

Bolded that one section though. That's the important part with spacers. imo, 25mm spacers would be my personal max for a wheel spacer. Any thicker and I'd just reconsider my wheel choice entirely. But torquing them properly is the key to using wheel spacers safely, lol.

The cost of the fender modification came from the insurance money from the bus bump 'n' grind back in September 2016, and came out to around ~$1400, give or take a few tens. Sheetmetal is in plentiful stock here on Kauai, so it's cheap and easy to get, lol. The work didn't need much sheetmetal though, but I feel my rear fenders will need a fair bit of sheetmetal since they have to be made from scratch. . .

What I didn't get pictured is the removable mudguards that the shop is making for me to use while the car is on the street, carving a twisty road, or smashing cones at autox, to keep road debris and dirt from splashing up on the sides of the car. I requested that they be removable so that I can show off the extra rubber showing past the fender at car shows and car meets ?

These are 255/40 Ventus RS-3. My first choice for tires was actually Bridgestone Potenza RE-71Rs, but at the time I ordered my wheel/tire package from Tire Rack, they had no stock of RE-71R and were still on nat'l backorder ? my other choice was the BFG Rival S, but Tire Rack didn't have enough in inventory. So I settled on the Ventus RS-3, as they were the only tire at the time that had 4 or more in stock. I see Tire Rack has replenished their stock of those tires though, so I may go for the Rivals to mount on my Koseis after these RS-3s wear down, and get Michelin Pilot Sport 4Ss for my RE30CSIIs when I get those ?
 

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thanks
1400 isn't bad for what they are accomplishing in metal

i have run two sets of the earlier bfg Rivals
very good on the street, not bad in rain
but i found them very noisy on the track and they do not hold like the toyo r888s
imo
DSCN0339 by yogib777, on Flickr

i have not tried the brigestone re-71r

was thinking of trying the newer ventus rs4

deff yes on the Michelin
i would be running pilot sport cup 2s
if i could afford it
 

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Discussion Starter #38
New update! Though it's not the fenders.



I would genuinely love to do a photo shoot of my car at this location though; seems like it would be a great place for a shoot if I can get permission from the property owners. Funny thing is, it's right across the cul-de-sac from teh body shop doing the work on my car, lol

If not this location, I know a few other places where a shoot can be done that would look pretty cool with the Spec set against it.

I'm sure my license plates have been displayed here at least once, right?

I found a wheel tracker/importer who can find for me a set of wheel faces for a custom three-piece build �� once I have all the pieces needed to build the wheels properly, the final setup will be 17x9JJ +20et offset ��

(hey @DaveSpecB15 look - I'm doing a proper wheel build �� buahahahaha~)

The wheel build might take a while though - the faces are apparently rarer than I thought they were, though the size I need is relatively plentiful for its rarity.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Looks like I'll have to reactivate my dead Flickr account to post up pics ��

Ugh. Stupid Photobucket. I used to rely on you to let me post pics when I was into micro RC cars back in 2006 to 2010.

Anyways. . .

Tomorrow means I collect the first of the items I needa pick up for my driveline refresh - a clutch disc.

Per recommendation of my friend @Jarek, I'm going with an ACT Street Performance sprung disc to go with my clutch setup. If it's good enough to handle his 7100rpm redline in nighttime Mexico runs, it'll stand up to my constant upshifting, downshifting, and sh!tshifting on hillclimbs and twisties.

I may also pick up Redline Lightweight Shockproof, per Jarek's recommendation as well. Would be good insurance for my driving style. I'm gonna have to drain the trans fluid anyways, and Light Shockproof is cheaper than buying OE MTF here in Hawaii, lol.

Next item after that is ZSpeedPerformance's .700" Tilton Racing clutch master cylinder kit. Gonna be nice to have an actually nice feeling clutch pedal after this refresh.

Needa save up afterward as well for Competition Clutch's Stage 2 pressure plate and Street flywheel. I'm kinda rethinking sending in my axles to The Driveshaft Shop since time and money might not be on my side this semester. It would be nice, however, to not have axle grease getting flung all over the backside of my engine on the passenger side and all over the inside of my driver's side front wheel. Maybe I'll chuck my parts car axles under my car for now if I decide to go through with sending in the original axles to TDS. . .
 
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