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Discussion Starter #1
So I just got my car two weeks ago. Loving this thing so far, well I was anyway.

Little background; I come from the mk3 vw scene. I never could see myself getting away from a 12v vr6 gti. Until I snagged this 04 se-r spec v with 138,208 for the sweet sweet price of... well just the title transfer.

I went to pick up the car, about 70 miles from my home, go to notary, change plates, and drive it home.

Fast forward a week and boom, engine “flutters” while driving. Then within a mile I’m getting loss of power for a split second at around 2200 rpm then it sorts itself at around 2500 rpm. Then I come to a stop and get crazy rough idle.

So I guess my point in all of this is, any clues at all???

Only codes thrown are for purge valve and small evap leak. Car came with receipts for new alternator and fuel pump within the last 6 months.

I haven’t had a good chance to try and diagnose between juggling 50 hr weeks and spending the evenings with my wife and kiddos.

Any step in the right direction/ guru knowledge of this platform is greatly appreciated.
 

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Back driver side is the evap canister, there is an elbow of sorts that if you clean out and reinstall you should be good....iirc. If you look for evap can cleaning it should come up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Back driver side is the evap canister, there is an elbow of sorts that if you clean out and reinstall you should be good....iirc. If you look for evap can cleaning it should come up.
Would the purge valve cause me to loose power while idling and driving? Can we post video clips on this forum?
 

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What have you done so far? Check for vacuum leaks? Install anything new?

Also since it’s your first spec, get rid of the precat and loctite those butterfly valves in the intake manifold if you haven’t already.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What have you done so far? Check for vacuum leaks? Install anything new?

Also since it’s your first spec, get rid of the precat and loctite those butterfly valves in the intake manifold if you haven’t already.
So far I haven’t had the chance to do anything but speculate what’s going on based on previous experience with other vehicles.

I know that the previous owner(original owner) had the precat recall taken care of. I have seen about the butterfly screws, plan on doing that on my next day off.

I do know that there is a slight valve cover leak, and was planning on running to the parts store(unless there is a better option from an unknown to me online dealer) next Friday when I get paid.
 

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So far I haven’t had the chance to do anything but speculate what’s going on based on previous experience with other vehicles.

I know that the previous owner(original owner) had the precat recall taken care of. I have seen about the butterfly screws, plan on doing that on my next day off.

I do know that there is a slight valve cover leak, and was planning on running to the parts store(unless there is a better option from an unknown to me online dealer) next Friday when I get paid.
I don't trust the recall to be honest but that's your choice if you want to continue to run the OEM manifold.

You can disconnect the evap system going into the engine by capping the manifold port next to the throttle body that way you know for sure that the evap system is not causing this. It is possible that the TB is done for or the MAF, but since you're not throwing any codes for those, I'd still check for vac leaks especially if you're having issues with idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't trust the recall to be honest but that's your choice if you want to continue to run the OEM manifold.

You can disconnect the evap system going into the engine by capping the manifold port next to the throttle body that way you know for sure that the evap system is not causing this. It is possible that the TB is done for or the MAF, but since you're not throwing any codes for those, I'd still check for vac leaks especially if you're having issues with idle.
I think I may have narrowed it down, or am just flat out wrong.

I grabbed my multimeter and tested battery and alternator. Alternator was holding steady voltage, battery non running was only at 11.5 with a visible drain happening. While running battery was jumping all around and then while under load kept switching from reading LOW to OVERLOAD. This was done with a 20v Klein reader set to DC.

Battery holds charge to crank without being ran for over 24 hrs so I’m thinking a diode has gone bad in the alternator or the voltage regulator is quickly going out the door.

Thoughts??
 

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I may have had similar issues outside the code that's being thrown, if the alternator and battery are not happy then it creates a whole host of other issues.
 

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What kind of alternator was put in there? Was it autozone type thing? Those hold a lifetime warranty so if you have the receipt, you may try that. Like Cricki mentioned, a bad batt/voltage regulator at the alty can throw you off a goose chase.
 

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If the valve cover is leaking, check the ignition coils and spark plug tubes too. The seals for those are integrated into the valve cover. May be oil in there causing misfire? I just changed mine out, due to a leak and had oil in 3 of 4 tubes, although, I was not experiencing any misfire or rough idle.
 

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Had a similar problem years ago, for me it was maf sensor and I cleaned up the throttle body while I was in there. Did some strange stuff when it went bad (super low idle, wandering idle, sudden loss of power) and went into limp mode. I bought the cheap dorman maf worked perfect, had to let it idle for a few mins after install to relearn idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
We are golden. I finally got a day to get under the hood. The vapor canister purge valve was the culprit. Little bastard was stuck open.

Now it runs fine, though there is a gradual loss of power when in neutral...🤔

Also it now has a weird idle, nothing like before but it goes as follows;

Turn key- strong idle @1200rpm then about every 30 ish seconds it drops 200 +\- rpm until it finally dies. Happens faster with any form on power draw.

Is there a way to reset idle after changing the purge valve considering it dies out after 2.5-3 minutes?

Also, suddenly zero power to my radio. Everything else is fine though.
 

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If it's intermient it could be a coil pack, Its pretty common and will sometimes only happen for 10 or 20 seconds once a week and runs fine the rest of the time.
 

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It's up to you, volume had changed since you fixed the valve and it will adjust the trims over time.
 
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