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Discussion Starter #1
I've been throwing around some insomnia ideas with friends over the last couple days, most of which pertain to tuning a cammed-only FBO QR and strapping in some bottles of giggle gas.

I've taken into consideration the idea that I mainly drive my car only in commuter conditions, and that I usually only do the fun stuff sporadically - touge/hillclimb runs, autocross, and the occasional midnight highway pull with another naturally aspirated friend.

With the exception of the last two, I've been giving some thought to fitting my car with nitrous for fun stuff. Reason I've decided to go with the bottle as a power adder, as opposed to bolting on a snail include:

- Adding a snail to the maintenance mix isn't very feasible for me since I have school and work taking up much of my time in my daily life
- I don't have much time or money to fully dedicate to doing a boost build on a motor
- I'm easily tempted by cars with too much power, but I also value my clean driving record
- Touge/Hillclimb runs are the only fun runs I do where I struggle with a lack of power

I know most people here utilize nitrous as a short-burst power adder for drag runs, and know that most people here can get away with squeezing several passes out of a bottle or two over a couple weekends.

Would nitrous be feasible for a car that will only use it on hillclimbs though? The only time I feel I'd need power bursts like that would be when I'm chasing my boosted friends up the mountain on the straights, but when I go back to driving the car on a daily basis, I don't feel that I need a power adder like a snail on the street. And sure, there's the added maintenance factor of needing to refill nitrous bottles whenever they run low, but the Shell down the street from me does refills for the drag racers who race at Kauai Raceway Park on the west side of the island.
 

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VQ swap it


You won't drive safely if you aren't used to driving the car with the power. Which you'll never be if you only use it as described. And good luck only using it as described.
 

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personally having tried this
i think it's a great idea

gives you a plane jane streeter for everyday
but
becomes something very special
when the bottle is turned on


i used it at the drags and in mt cruises against the big boys

with a progressive onset, there is much less chance of engine damage
or more important loss of traction

this is not a cheap approach
i had/have about $800 in my nx setup

and had i purchased it
near $2500 for the wizards of nitrous kit, that pushed my car to 100mph in the 1/8

a 15lb bottle and a 30shot lasts a very long time
a 10lb bottle and a 100shot gave me about 6-7 drag runs

call it a minute of operating time with a 100hp at your disposal

enough time for 6 laps at AMP
[it's only on from 7/8 throttle to wot]

on a stock engine a progressive system will tolerate a 100shot

think about that

stock motor 145whp
enter n2o
and 240whp [aprox] instant vq
lol

many bolted motors make 180whp
and will run 260-280whp with a 100 shot
instant turbo?

with progressive injection, imo, feels just like a fast spool turbo.
power [tq] just rolls in smoothly


Listen to Dave
going from na qr or vq to higher power turbo
took me over a year to learn to drive
[fast]

just practice, practice, practice

my n2o car was actually faster in the 1/8 than my 360whp turbo


and with the controller was easier to control traction
than with the more sudden turbo
imo

if you can afford it
the wizards of nitrous make the best kits in the world
far above NX, and NOS
imo
 

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and NX has finally got a clue
they added meth injection
[to control detonation]

the combo systems are capable of generating great power at little increased risk
and allow you to run normal timing

the meth injection is going in my car as we post
and next spring

n20 will reenter the picture
as a further and more extreme intake cooler for 100* days

[meth, and a 30shot, bring the power back to 360 with no detonation in the extreme heat
here it's a power restorer, not adder, runs like it 30* outside]

time to make our own weather
lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
After some more consideration of the idea, I think it's the direction I'd like to point my build in for now.

The only real track racing we have out here in Hawaii is drag racing, which is where nitrous shines anyways for those looking for a quick lick of power to drop their 1320 times lower.

But, I'm not interested in straight line runs :biggrin: not anymore.

If a track were to make a return to Hawaii though, that's when I'll give some thought to my original belt snail plans. Constant, progressive, NA-like power would be nice for that.

But as Barry said,

Listen to Dave
going from na qr or vq to higher power turbo
took me over a year to learn to drive
[fast]

just practice, practice, practice
Practice will be my key anyways for keeping up with my boosted friends with spray on the straights. I've already got her mostly dialed in for the corners, but now, Dream needs to show her aggression on the straights :evil:

The idea with my primary engine build anyways is to get it a bit more rev happy, and do more of an internals revision than changing it for for forged parts - I'm looking at doing up B16 Spec V QR internals and letting it rev up to 6800-7000rpm redline for these kinds of runs, which, if I start spraying at about 4500 rpm and let the power slowly ramp up till redline, will still give me roughly 2000rpm to make some top end power. JWT C1s will help pick up the top end better as well.

Spray will come after the engine is built and run NA for a while anyways, since it's truthfully more of a catch-up/keep-up aid when my boost friends have all their power to play with on the sections that let them unleash their cars :biggrin: the straight sections on the road we run are the only sections that require me to throttle down, which is where a FBO QR like mine just falls on its face.
 

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i have some experience using the b16 rotating assembly in a b15 block with c1 cams

in my experience, the stock b16 pistons did not make enough compression [imo] to effectively use the c1 cams
mine with a milled head came out at about 9.5cr

the c1s run best with 11.5cr

substituting 11.5cr, cast 2jr pistons, with the b16 crank and rods might work better for you, esp with n2o


and a good progressive controller, will make the process much more effective
providing high levels of acceleration, less traction loss and less stress on the motor

NOS has the least expensive one that is sophisticated enough for RR track work.
worked well for me in the mts
imo
 
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