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2002 Nissan Sentra SER SPEC V
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I drove the car as usual this week to go to work. Car runs fine nothing unusual. Recently just fixed my radiator fans and everything runs great. Temperatures seem within tolerance.

On Thursday, I drove the car to work and drove back home at the end of the day. Nothing unusual until after I parked, got out of the car, got my stuff out and used my FOB to lock the car. There was no beep sound so I went back and manually locked the car thinking my FOB ran out of battery.

I pressed lock on the drivers side panel and nothing happened. I looked at my immobilizer light and it is not flashing red. I put the key in and there is no sound. I pressed the hazard lights and nothing...

Thinking it maybe a fuse I decided to check it later that night. The engine bay fuse box 120a and 80a look fine as well as the 15a eccs fuse.

I went the the cabin fuse box and checked the two eccs fuses.. they all looked good.

I tested the battery via multimeter. It is reading at 12.47. So my battery is still healthy. I checked my negative terminal strap, it is reading at 5ohms and there is continuity. I checked the fuses on the positive terminal battery connector, nothing is blown. I cleaned the terminals and battery negative ground strap a bit and reattached them.. still nothing.

I tried to use a portable jump starter since that usually gets things started. I connected it to the correct terminals, there is nothing. No flashing red light, no power to anything including hazards.. One thing I noticed is that when I try to connect the jump starter connectors it normally will make a small spark, but there is nothing. No spark. I am even confident enough to touch the terminals with my fingers thinking nothing will happen...


I have been at it for 2 nights and I am still scratching my head. Any ideas?

Photos below:

Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle tire Gas

Wood Gas Auto part Metal Machine

White Electrical wiring Automotive tire Gas Motor vehicle

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Bicycle part

Automotive lighting Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Motor vehicle

Wood Automotive tire Gas Metal Auto part

Finger Gas Art Auto part Machine

Office equipment Office supplies Font Machine Auto part

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Audio equipment Gas Auto part

Finger Auto part Metal Nail Office equipment


Photos were before cleaning terminals. I cleaned them with a wire brush and terminal cleaner and it looks a bit better.
 

· The Watcher
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To be honest... your pics are shit..... with that out of the way......(what an asshole)


You might want to check the part of the harness that runs in the drivers side fender that goes into the cabin to the fuse/ relay box... what ever the main power wire that splits from the engine bay to the cabin may be the issue.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay. I will check tonight. I don't need to remove the driver side fender do I?

I am thinking to just remove the plastic cover under the steering wheel, look at the fuse box and then find that wire you are talking about.

Wife is eyeing my car like a vulture because she wants something newer for the family and myself!! :( ::sad::
 

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Or even try swapping main or ecu relays.

The neg cable at 5 ohms should be close to zero, but I dont think thats the problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I'm stumped...

Really dumb question but thought I'd ask. Could a battery read 12.4+ volts and just be bad?? There is absolutely zero power..

I don't think I have the skill to figure this out..

The last thing I worked on was radiator fans and I removed the radiator to do that. I did not disconnect or move any wires. That was last week.

EDIT:

Here are some pictures of grounds that I checked:

Grey Font Art Automotive tire Eyewear


I went under the car and looked at the ground from the transmission to chassis. Reads okay with a multimeter. EDIT I didn't touch the grounds to the negative terminal of my battery.. will try again tomorrow..

Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Vehicle Electrical wiring Gas


The car came with a grounding kit when I bought it back in 2015. They were attached to the intake manifold. The only addition I made are the two grounds on the left. Those are for my radiator fans which are grounded so they are always on when ignition is on. I touched each ground to the negative terminal of my battery with a multimeter, they all read 0.5 ohms.

Bicycle tire Bicycle handlebar Bicycle wheel Vehicle Motor vehicle


This is the negative terminal ground strap. I replaced it tonight. The reason being is that when I retested the old one earlier tonight, my multimeter readings were reading 13.0+ ohms! I should have taken a picture of the reading as well as the old strap but it was hard holding a phone camera while holding the multimeter prongs.. It now reads 0.5 ohms consistently.

Hood Circuit component Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Computer hardware


I am not sure what this is but it has always been there. It goes from the negative terminal to the area behind the battery, near the transmission/ starter area?--sorry I should know more about what its called.. Anyway it reads okay at 0.5 ohms.

I gave all the grounds a good tug and all felt nice and tight. I didn't check any grounds inside the cabin area. I couldn't find any obvious ones.

I tried reading the FSM for 2002 Nissan Sentra Section PG. I started from PG-12 and kept looking at what each ground is connected to but.. Feeling pressure and getting late (1am) I couldn't figure it out.

I looked at the jumble of wires behind the cabin fuse box drivers side and nothing appears to be loose or broken/ cut.

Is the ECU Relay behind the glove box? I pulled out the glove box and the plastic cover behind it, and I could not find any brown relays.

Tired and stressed, I came back home (1:45 am) and my wife asked if I fixed it. Lol... I replied no. And she suggested I start looking at some "SUVS".. Oh man.. 😢😢😢

Anyway I need to figure out how to get to work next week..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gentlemen we have power! I feel really stupid.

Ripped apart the cabin and jacked up the car chasing grounds... It was the fuselink.

Details to follow as I have a lot of unnecessary shit I have to clean up! 😤😤

Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Thigh Automotive design

Bumper Automotive exterior Luggage and bags Plastic Auto part

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Bumper

Car Speedometer Motor vehicle Gear shift Automotive design
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright so after spending a few hours each late night Friday and Saturday checking fuses and testing grounds, I decided to check fuses again LOL. I eventually ended up at the Fuselink again..--the part that connects directly on the positive terminal of the battery.

I want to post what happened here so that maybe it will help someone one day.

Symptoms: Absolutely no power (not even hazard lights), but battery reads healthy (above 12.47+ volts). Cannot use jumpers to jump start car (I think this is the most important one).

Not knowing how to check a Fuselink and thinking its just like checking a regular fuse, I was searching for blown fuses. I didn't see any blown fuse because all the fuses looked "connected" so to me that was my okay. I googled the shit about Fuselinks and skimmed through a few pages and they all mentioned something about melting. I reinspected my Fuselink and did notice that the 120a Fuse looked melted. See photo below:

Wood Gas Font Metal Number

(The picture above illustrates what a bad Nissan Fuselink could look like)

I took a multimeter and tested for resistance. Depending on where I touched the prongs to on the melted Fuse, I was getting 0.2-5.0+ OHMS. At this point I was thinking either no connection or horrible connection. Anyway I decided to reinstall the fuselink back into the car and of course, there is no power. At this point I decided to stick a screwdriver touching the two end points of the fuselink to make a connection:

Motor vehicle Car Hood Automotive design Automotive air manifold

(The picture above shows one of the many ways to use a flathead screwdriver)

Pretty damn sure it isn't safe nor recommended. However, I instantly noticed red flashing coming from the immobilizer in the corner of my eye!

I nearly shat my pants as I walked towards and climbed into my drivers seat in excitement. I put my key in and I hear the familiar beeping when the key is in. I turned to ignition on position. I have power.

Knowing that it is the Fuselink at this point, I ordered a new one from Amazon. It is arriving tomorrow and I will replace it with the new one then. Should only take me about 10 minutes to take the old one off and put in the new.

Also I have taken out the screwdriver and have cranked the car and drove around the block a bit. It is running well. Not sure why it is still working now without the screwdriver. Maybe its a magical screwdriver. :ROFLMAO:

Afterwards, I cleaned up my tools and replaced the plastic pieces I tore apart the past few nights in the cabin:

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Car seat cover

(Cleaned up a bit)

Recipe Gas Automotive exterior Bumper Ingredient

(Tools put away)

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Gear shift

(Need to vacuum)

I made my way back into the house. My wife was downstairs tidying up the living room. "Is it time for a new car?" she asks. I replied "Not yet". HAHAHAHAHA
 
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· The Watcher
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Just get another car and keep the Sentra, basically what I did...

I will have to look at my terminal as I don't remember if I have a fuse link.
 

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Im so sorry I saw that main fuse link earlier in the post and yeah it looked melted but didnt say anything about it. Ive only seen that twice where a fuse blows but retouches.
 
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· One of One
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Fuse link didn't come on any of the sentras. Someone added that at the time of install with the harness. I have it on my Altima and had the same issue last year. Ghetto rigged one from autozone and then got one from Amazon which worked like oem. I noticed on the specv - vq swaps, grounding and blowing fuses is very commonplace. I reccomend getting a breaker installed to prevent you from having to replace that fuse often.
 

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Oh yeah youre right about them not having that. It looks like theres also alot of add ons too so may need to consider a bigger fuse or run seperately fused wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Yes. I do have quite a bit of electronics:

4 Cameras, DVR with 2 TB Storage, Cellink Neo Back Up Battery, 5" LCD Monitor, Pathfinder Rearview Auto Dimming Mirror, After Market Stereo and Speakers, 20W Phone Charger etc...

Maybe overkill.. This is my mobile command center.

Tonight when I install the new fuselink I will measure the voltage on load. I think I should aim under 13v??

EDIT:

IGNITION ON - All accessories (headlights, cameras, backup battery DVR, Stereo, Phone Charging) Voltage reads anywhere between 11.2-11.8v

ENGINE RUNNING - All accessories Voltage reads anywhere between 13.7-14.2v

New Fuselink installed!

Here is a picture of a good new one.

Camera Camera accessory Cameras & optics Camera lens Film camera

Circuit component Engineering Font Electronic component Metal

Gas Wood Machine Circuit component Fashion accessory


@CrickiKaze I would love to keep the Sentra. That would be a dream. Unfortunately unless a miracle happens we can only have two cars. My wife's 2016 Honda Fit and my car. Trying to get her into a bigger car but she is only comfortable driving the Fit 😞. Maybe she will come around. There is too much blood sweat and tears put into this Spec V to just give it up. I may only have 3-4 years left with it..

If you ask me right now I don't know what car to get.. Maybe a VW Golf SportWagen with a manual or a Pathfinder to keep it in the family lol.


@Sus Spec That picture was garbage.

@Tritton that maybe an idea and I assume wiring it wouldn't be too hard. If the breaker were to trip while I am driving would the car completely turn off though?? Also you are right about blown fuses with VQ specs. When I first got this car with the FIR harness, it blew fuses left right and center (Battery and Ignition Fuse in the engine bay fuse box, eccs fuse in the cabin.. etc) I carried a bag of fuses with me where I went. Since installing tloofs harness I only had this incident so far. My grounding problems were mostly me being careless and forgetting to ground the radiator fans or grounding the ECU to a horrible ground.
 
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Im glad you figured that out and looks like youre on the right track for the electrical work needed. Just keep in mind, its not about volts, its about amp draw.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry I'm really curious as to what my amp measurement will be but I am afraid to do it with my multimeter since the dial only goes up to 10A.

I've been browsing for an amp meter that can read more than 120A but the tool selection on Amazon is a bit overwhelming.. Any suggestions?
 

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You will need one of these or something similar to measure DC amps with a multimeter
 

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120A reader should be enough. That might be a multimeter for a home. But yeah I think most or all auto ones limit to 10A
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Alright lol where I live kinda sucks for these things. I called a Lordco and NAPA and another parts store (Bumper to Bumper). They unfortunately do not let me bring a car to "test" but they offered to sell me amp meters ranging from $200-400. I politely declined and just went to Amazon.

This is the reading I got. It goes as high as 1000A but I set it at 600A. There was no way for me to clamp it around the fuselink so I just took a spare ground wire hooked it up and clamped it around that. Not sure if that will affect accuracy. I started the car and went back out to see the reading. 21.79A with the car running everything on I think.


Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting Steering wheel Automotive design


I think I am good?
 

· The Watcher
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That seems low but i assume that's at idle. Put that on the alternator and have someone out something set the engine speed above 1k rpm.... maybe 1200 or what ever rpm the alt engages at.... or do a slow rise through half rev range.

Will have to look at a vq fsm for specifics in the service data in the starting & charging system section. I don't have a vq fsm downloaded.
 

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There was no way for me to clamp it around the fuselink so I just took a spare ground wire hooked it up and clamped it around that. Not sure if that will affect accuracy.
Unless it is the main ground wire connected directly to the battery with no other wires connected to the post then you will not be measuring all the current being fed to the electrics.
 
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