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I have an 02 SpecV I was recently gifted, it is on its 3rd engine (less than 7k), 102k on the body. I pulled p1121 and 2135, replaced the throttle body, did the relearn and re-pulled the codes. Still got the SES and same codes but I decided to try and drive and see if it was still in limp mode. I was able to get up to 60mph, revving up to 5k, but I stalled at a light.

I tried to restart the engine, no crank, no start, just clicking sound (I think it was the starter). I get it pushed off the road, pedal dance, no new codes. The battery is still working, dash lights and interior lights come on. I think the battery is losing juice as I tried to start it multiple times. When we towed it back, I tried to show aaa, the clicking sound, nothing, however; dash lights still turned on. AAA suggested dead alternator. I am going to get it towed to a shop soon, its in my garage rn.

Note: I have only driven it one other time since I've gotten it, before the new throttle body, I have not driven it not in limp mode. It was given to me with the codes listed. Since receiving it I have changed the oil, oil filter, loctited the butterflies and obviously replaced the TB
Help/ideas/suggestions?
 

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If you're only getting clicks out of the starter, try hitting it with a rubber mallet and see if that makes the starter move. If it does, you have a starter problem. Also try charging the battery or pull the battery and have it checked at autozone or something. They can also do that to the alternator. Our alternators are notorious for getting heatsoaked near the header, thus it can go. Truth be told, it could also be the load in your trunk (I saw your other thread) that led the alternator to die early. I've been on the factory alternator and have not had any issues, then again I don't have a system and have a grounding system that's been on the car since a few months after buying it new. Just go back to basics with the diag, check the starter and have the batt/alternator checked out. If you're still having issues, replace the cam/crank sensors with OEM sensors and see. The tb issues are separate from this so treat it as such.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you're only getting clicks out of the starter, try hitting it with a rubber mallet and see if that makes the starter move. If it does, you have a starter problem. Also try charging the battery or pull the battery and have it checked at autozone or something. They can also do that to the alternator. Our alternators are notorious for getting heatsoaked near the header, thus it can go. Truth be told, it could also be the load in your trunk (I saw your other thread) that led the alternator to die early. I've been on the factory alternator and have not had any issues, then again I don't have a system and have a grounding system that's been on the car since a few months after buying it new. Just go back to basics with the diag, check the starter and have the batt/alternator checked out. If you're still having issues, replace the cam/crank sensors with OEM sensors and see. The tb issues are separate from this so treat it as such.
ok Sweet. I'm gonna check the voltage of the battery w a multimeter, but ill check the starter as well, and probably jump it. Can I remove the alternator easily to just pop it out and bring it to auto zone? The load can't be more than 100 pounds, and im light as well, I don't think it was a factor. I have heard about the the alternator getting heatsoaked, ill probably invest in that heatshield from sc concepts eventually. I'll be sure to update!
 

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The alternator will be easy to check and that is my first instinct. Sometimes the battery light will not come on if the alt has failed (had this happen). I will also say be wary of AAA batteries. They are only temporary batteries imo. It may be in combination of a starter starting to fail as well if its only one single click. Multiple clicks means not enough power aka atlernator died and used the battery to power the car.

As far as the codes is it a new hitatchi tb? If so, I think you need to go electrical to see if inputs and outputs are to spec on the tb. This will tell you if there are any broken wires or if there is a pcm problem. This can be intense and probly meant for a shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The alternator will be easy to check and that is my first instinct. Sometimes the battery light will not come on if the alt has failed (had this happen). I will also say be wary of AAA batteries. They are only temporary batteries imo. It may be in combination of a starter starting to fail as well if its only one single click. Multiple clicks means not enough power aka atlernator died and used the battery to power the car.

As far as the codes is it a new hitatchi tb? If so, I think you need to go electrical to see if inputs and outputs are to spec on the tb. This will tell you if there are any broken wires or if there is a pcm problem. This can be intense and probly meant for a shop.
hmmm ok. It currently has an old interstate battery with some corrosion, so I will probably replace the battery, sooner now then later. I will try jumping it for now, then hitting it w a rubber mallet. The new tb is not OEM, I bought it off of 1aa autoparts. I am going to check the connector pin, cuz if the code is coming from the connector pin I might try. throwing the stock one back on. Idk well see. Thanks for the replies tho ya'll, I've been working but hope to work on it tomorrow!
 

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The load can't be more than 100 pounds, and im light as well, I don't think it was a factor. I have heard about the the alternator getting heatsoaked, ill probably invest in that heatshield from sc concepts eventually. I'll be sure to update!
When I meant load, I mean current draw. Not literal weight lol.

EDIT: I re-read your other thread and looks like the sub isn't installed...I thought it could be that a system was pulling too much and killing the batt/alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ahh all good lmao. tested the battery w a multimeter, got 12.5v across, a lil low. Took the battery and alternator to autozone, both are working fine, got the battery topped off. I am going to hit the starter tomorrow, and we'll see what comes next
 

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Battery power needs to be measured in cold cranking amps. A bad battery can always have 12 volts but only 150cca when it needs 450cca. Need a battery load tester.

Also the voltage across the battery when running should be ~14 volts. Measure with blower motor and brights on (load).
 
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