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Nope, I haven't checked that!
I looked through my tools, I got a 6-12V Circuit tester; It's like a screw driver that lights up lol.
Well how could I check it for electricity using that? Also their are 2 cables coming into the plug, which one would I need to test.
Thanks.
A test light? Have not used one in years. Hook the clip up to a ground, and then poke the sharp end in there where you wanna test. If I remember right there are only two wires there, just jab the fucker in there and see if one is hot. It should have battery voltage with the key on and car off.

Also that code isn't keeping you in closed loop, I threw my evap system in the trash a long time ago, car runs fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
A test light? Have not used one in years. Hook the clip up to a ground, and then poke the sharp end in there where you wanna test. If I remember right there are only two wires there, just jab the fucker in there and see if one is hot. It should have battery voltage with the key on and car off.

Also that code isn't keeping you in closed loop, I threw my evap system in the trash a long time ago, car runs fine.
I already tested it early today, Their was electricity on the plug and also passing through the fuse.
So now what lol?

BeOhSix said something about checking the ground side of the plug for continuity but how the hell do you do that?
 

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You need to use a DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter). Since its a solenoid it is ground side switches which means that the on/off switch is on the ground side. I think the switch is controlled via ECU so I would just check continuity from the ground pin on the solenoid to the ECU pin. I'll take a look at a wiring diagram tomorrow and tell you what I find.

Also it could be shorted to ground forcing the solenoid to stay open all the time. That would a vacuum leak making for a rough idle and poor fuel economy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
You need to use a DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter). Since its a solenoid it is ground side switches which means that the on/off switch is on the ground side. I think the switch is controlled via ECU so I would just check continuity from the ground pin on the solenoid to the ECU pin. I'll take a look at a wiring diagram tomorrow and tell you what I find.

Also it could be shorted to ground forcing the solenoid to stay open all the time. That would a vacuum leak making for a rough idle and poor fuel economy.
I do have a rough idle and of course the bad fuel economy, Thanks for your help so far. If it would be shorted to ground causing it to stay open at all time; the P0444 means that its open from what Google says haha, so how would I fix it?
 

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i have this same problem and its been a pain in the ass...literally have everything i need to boost my car but i cant until i fix this
 

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I do have a rough idle and of course the bad fuel economy, Thanks for your help so far. If it would be shorted to ground causing it to stay open at all time; the P0444 means that its open from what Google says haha, so how would I fix it?
Well in the meantime you can just unplug it and cap it to keep it from running like ass. Then you gotta track down the short. Again, look at the fsm and see what pin it is and check continuity.
 

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This is what i would do.

car has to be accessory ON to do these tests. No voltage is supplied to the solenoid with the ignition in the off position.

1) throw out your test light and find a multimeter (DVOM)
2) check the fuse for continuity
3) check the power side of the circuit from the connector, PIN 1[G/W] TO GND [BATT NEG]
4) check the solenoid for continuity, Dont know the exact ohm reading of this solenoid but probably around 5-17 ohms
5) check for continuity from the solenoid to the ECU CONNECTOR PIN 13 (may need a friend)
6) check and make sure the ground side isn't shorted, PIN 13 ECU CONNECTOR to BATT NEG. [You shouldn't see any Ohm reading, maybe 20 megaohms but shouldn't be just ohms

Also make sure you ECU is grounded properly. i think it is grounded to the timing cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Thanks BeOhSix, now I gotta head out and get a multimeter.

Basically for continuity to exist similar numbers should be shown on the ground side of the plug when compared to ECU pin 13 where the ground side of the plug leads to, correct me if I'm not understanding, I'll also do the others tests.

Now check this idea out, if continuity weren't to exists between the plug and the ECU pin, can I run a new wire from the solenoid ground side all the way back to the ECU pin? Maybe splicing the original ECU pin wire and soldering it to the new wire.
 

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Thanks BeOhSix, now I gotta head out and get a multimeter.
Basically for continuity to exist similar numbers should be shown on the ground side of the plug when compared to ECU pin 13 where the ground side of the plug leads to, correct me if I'm not understanding, I'll also do the others tests.

Now check this idea out, if continuity weren't to exists between the plug and the ECU pin, can I run a new wire from the solenoid ground side all the way back to the ECU pin? Maybe splicing the original ECU pin and soldering it to the new wire.
yes. that is how you would fix a break in the wire. but remember the problem could also be the connector itself.
 

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also on wire runs ohm readings should be .1 ohms for an excellent run. and don't do ohm readings with the key on
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
This is embarrassing, But how do I find the ECU and how do I know which one is PIN 13? I think the ECU is in a black box on the upper left behind the intake manifold, but on the firewall.

EDIT: Just found it the ECM Harness Diagram in the FSM! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
my 02 spec-v just gave me this p0444 code, did you get it fixed?
Nope, I kinda just forgot about it!
I did buy the Multi meter, as BeOhSix said my next step is to check for ground continuity... I'll see when I can get that done, not so good with the electrical side of mechanics..

I'm hoping maybe the problem lies in the connector, so maybe I'll replace that and see of it fixes the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
+1 Still have this code on my Spec, been living with it for almost 4 years. It's a shame too, only code my Spec has had for all this time.
 

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No further info needed. I literally could not have given more info on how to properly trouble shoot the tits off this thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
No further info needed. I literally could not have given more info on how to properly trouble shoot the tits off this thing.
Looking back, you are absolutely correct.
Thanks for you help, the solution to finding the issue is in your posts above.
 
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