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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2002 Spec V - 142k miles, head was rebuilt by Nissan at ~60k so ~82k on this valvetrain

The girlfriend drove it last and said she didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Parked it and it won't start back up again, cranks but won't start. New plugs, VC gasket, MAF, and crank and cam sensors in January of this year. I understand that cam/crank sensors can go back pretty easily though. Continues coming up with a code p1111 the VTC solenoid, even if I clear codes it will come back as soon as I turn the key ... this guy
Auto part Automotive engine part Carburetor


Has spark, fuel, fuses good, battery charged up, compression dry reads 150-150-90-150, that 90 didn't come up at all with a capful of oil. No crosstalk of coolant or oil, doesn't run so I'm not sure if there's smoke.

Have I been butterflied? I don't see any valve bits or screw bits in the cylinder and the spark plug looks fine.

Can a bad VTC solenoid actually cause low compression? and on one cylinder only? where do I get one? anyone have the part number?

Once I get some help to move it over to the shop I'll be tearing into it to see what I can find, any suggestions of what to look for?

Thanks:eek:
 

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no but you can try and switch your cam/crank sensors and see if it helps any. if it starts but your rpms arent showing up on the tach its a bad guage. also if that tihng is shot its time for you to buy a new one. like 230$ i believe! anyway before you blow your money on hookers and cocaine.. oh wait i mean a "shop" try and get some answers from on here
 

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If it's a stuck IVT, it should affect all of them since it would be affecting the intake cam. That could be just a different problem altogether. I doubt that the IVT solenoid is making your #3 run low, but if it's dead and causing the P1111, here's the part# 23796-ZE00C MSRP @ 212.

So 90 on #3 huh? Did you check the butterfly screws yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I figured it would throw all cylinders off, not just one but I could hope for that minute. Same with timing jumping a tooth I assume?

Updated the original post to include that crank/cam sensors are new as of January of this year when I was fighting a bad MAF that gave no codes, turned out it wasn't the cam/crank sensors but I couldn't take them back at that point. Threw away the old plastic ones, probably should have held onto those huh. I'll be able to tear into the car this weekend to check for butterfly screws loose. Lucky for me I just bought a new (to me) car last week and recently moved out of my apt. into a house with a huge detached garage. :)

$164 on courtesy parts for the IVT, not bad but I'll hold off until I at least check butterflies.
 

· The Watcher
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Before speculating the probable cause, have you looked into the FSM at the trouble shooting steps to see one of many causes...if not I was going to glance at it my self.
 

· The Watcher
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Here is what the FSM says are the possible causes for said code.


 Harness or connectors (Intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.)
 Intake valve timing control solenoid valve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I got it over to my shop and inside but damn birthday celebrations, hangover, and trip to pick up parts for the new car got in the way this weekend. Going out of town next weekend so I listed it for sale on craigslist as is. If no one buys it in the next couple weeks I'll pick it back up and revive the thread with my findings. I found the section in the fsm about testing resistance and for continuity between pins, will do that first, and inspect butterflies.
 

· The Watcher
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So I just found out why this code is so familiar to me, I had it....and still do after I rebuilt the engine, car has not had power for 2 yrs with ecu out of it. and now all I do is turn power on and pull codes and it pops up....can't even clear the damn code. I hate electrical troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I just found out why this code is so familiar to me, I had it....and still do after I rebuilt the engine, car has not had power for 2 yrs with ecu out of it. and now all I do is turn power on and pull codes and it pops up....can't even clear the damn code. I hate electrical troubleshooting.
Scary thought. I've been pricing out the parts for a head rebuild if needed, I guess I should cover all the other bases first before tearing into it. I've been driving my luxury V8 everyday and really miss this thing :(

cam issues would not cause just one cly to have problems it would case at lease 2 IMO, as the lobes run in pairs. I say you have other issues dude, blown HG, valve, something of that nature.
I was leaning towards valve issue due to the isolated cylinder, no way of knowing other than tearing into it. Maybe I can find someone with a boroscope to save myself the trouble.

Its your ECU grounds.
correction, just clean them all or something
Joe, any more info on the ECU grounding issue? All grounds or one in particular? If I just need to jump it somewhere to test I could do that pretty quickly. Or are you talking about the ECU being shot itself? (also if there is an easy fix for my issue, 2JR rear sway bar will be her reward :))

Thanks for the good discussion guys!
 

· The Watcher
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Best bet is to try a ecu swap. went to the dealer and the only thing they said they would try is a harness swap or direct pinning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Cleaned all grounds, still no start.

p1111 doesn't come up immediately on first crank anymore. No codes come up after clearing and cranking a while (whats the minimum time or crank rotations for a code to trip?)

Reinspected pistons through spark plug holes and spark plugs for evidence of butterfly screws, I don't think that's my issue.

Looks like I'm down to individual ECU pinouts, printing some pages from the FSM off tonight. We'll see how long it takes me to get another chance to work on it. Until then, it's still for sale as is.
 
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