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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2002 Spec V - 142k miles, head was rebuilt by Nissan at ~60k so ~82k on this valvetrain

The girlfriend drove it last and said she didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Parked it and it won't start back up again, cranks but won't start. New plugs, VC gasket, MAF, and crank and cam sensors in January of this year. I understand that cam/crank sensors can go back pretty easily though. Continues coming up with a code p1111 the VTC solenoid, even if I clear codes it will come back as soon as I turn the key ... this guy
Auto part Automotive engine part Carburetor


Has spark, fuel, fuses good, battery charged up, compression dry reads 150-150-90-150, that 90 didn't come up at all with a capful of oil. No crosstalk of coolant or oil, doesn't run so I'm not sure if there's smoke.

Have I been butterflied? I don't see any valve bits or screw bits in the cylinder and the spark plug looks fine.

Can a bad VTC solenoid actually cause low compression? and on one cylinder only? where do I get one? anyone have the part number?

Once I get some help to move it over to the shop I'll be tearing into it to see what I can find, any suggestions of what to look for?

Thanks:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I figured it would throw all cylinders off, not just one but I could hope for that minute. Same with timing jumping a tooth I assume?

Updated the original post to include that crank/cam sensors are new as of January of this year when I was fighting a bad MAF that gave no codes, turned out it wasn't the cam/crank sensors but I couldn't take them back at that point. Threw away the old plastic ones, probably should have held onto those huh. I'll be able to tear into the car this weekend to check for butterfly screws loose. Lucky for me I just bought a new (to me) car last week and recently moved out of my apt. into a house with a huge detached garage. :)

$164 on courtesy parts for the IVT, not bad but I'll hold off until I at least check butterflies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I got it over to my shop and inside but damn birthday celebrations, hangover, and trip to pick up parts for the new car got in the way this weekend. Going out of town next weekend so I listed it for sale on craigslist as is. If no one buys it in the next couple weeks I'll pick it back up and revive the thread with my findings. I found the section in the fsm about testing resistance and for continuity between pins, will do that first, and inspect butterflies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I just found out why this code is so familiar to me, I had it....and still do after I rebuilt the engine, car has not had power for 2 yrs with ecu out of it. and now all I do is turn power on and pull codes and it pops up....can't even clear the damn code. I hate electrical troubleshooting.
Scary thought. I've been pricing out the parts for a head rebuild if needed, I guess I should cover all the other bases first before tearing into it. I've been driving my luxury V8 everyday and really miss this thing :(

cam issues would not cause just one cly to have problems it would case at lease 2 IMO, as the lobes run in pairs. I say you have other issues dude, blown HG, valve, something of that nature.
I was leaning towards valve issue due to the isolated cylinder, no way of knowing other than tearing into it. Maybe I can find someone with a boroscope to save myself the trouble.

Its your ECU grounds.
correction, just clean them all or something
Joe, any more info on the ECU grounding issue? All grounds or one in particular? If I just need to jump it somewhere to test I could do that pretty quickly. Or are you talking about the ECU being shot itself? (also if there is an easy fix for my issue, 2JR rear sway bar will be her reward :))

Thanks for the good discussion guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Cleaned all grounds, still no start.

p1111 doesn't come up immediately on first crank anymore. No codes come up after clearing and cranking a while (whats the minimum time or crank rotations for a code to trip?)

Reinspected pistons through spark plug holes and spark plugs for evidence of butterfly screws, I don't think that's my issue.

Looks like I'm down to individual ECU pinouts, printing some pages from the FSM off tonight. We'll see how long it takes me to get another chance to work on it. Until then, it's still for sale as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Finally got around to going through the FSM testing procedures. I got through EC1340 and EC1772 for ECM power circuit and ignition circuit and here is what I found:

Found a few more body grounds, cleaned and connected.
ECM relay - good
ECM grounds - good
ECM power - good
ignition condenser - good (although I don't have a capacitance meter, it jumped to zero and rose to infinity when testing resistance)
coil packs - good
continuity to all coil pack triggers (21,22,23,24) - good
continuity from coil packs to ground - good
continuity from pin 12 to condenser to coil packs - good
Voltage on pin 12 with key on - Only 4V, should be 12V - I think I found my problem, bad ECM? Can I jump a fused 12v to it and see if the car will start with out damaging anything else?

So now I'm trying to find the right 5P ecm part number, the ones I find on ebay are out of automatic GXE's. Will that work in my 6spd Spec V? It is a NATS car so I'll have to take it to the stealership for reprogramming as well :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Reviewing the wiring diagram I was wondering the same thing. I tested the relay per the fsm, voltage on certain connector pins with relay unplugged, ground on others, continuity between ecm pins and relay socket, and also jumpered 12v from the battery to the relay manually to open/close it and test continuity. I guess for how cheap they are I'll buy another relay and capacitor. I'm obviously not in too much of a hurry. Thanks for the help guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I see that a bunch of other relays in the car look common but didn't try that yet. My plan for today is to get the harness reinstalled (unhooked a bunch for access to the voltage condenser) and run a jumper direct from fuse 34+ to ecm pin 12. If it works then I have a problem wire or connector and if not its back to the drawing board. I'll keep you guys posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
I see that a bunch of other relays in the car look common but didn't try that yet. My plan for today is to get the harness reinstalled (unhooked a bunch for access to the voltage condenser) and run a jumper direct from fuse 34+ to ecm pin 12. If it works then I have a problem wire or connector and if not its back to the drawing board. I'll keep you guys posted.
She's alive! Runs noticeably smoother with clean grounds too. Now I just need to trace back and figure out where the break in that wire is and repair. Can't believe with no money spent and 2 months down I finally figured it out.

It ended up being the wire between the relay and e9-f47 connector near where the airbox is supposed to be. Once I pulled the tape back I found a smashed wire with a bunch of conductive goop on it that a previous owner must have done. Here's the post that got me thinking so credit to whoever these guys are from way back...
http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-122585.html

Now I still have codes p1111 and p0113 but it runs and drives for the first time in 2 months!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Facepalm, forgot to plug in the IVT solenoid. Cleared codes. Drove 50 miles and got p1111 again plus 1706, and 1456. Going to try to fix by oil change, check/clean sensor connections for pnp switch, and screw 1456 we don't have emissions here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
So can the p1111 cause a no start? It shouldn't right?
p1111 should not cause a no-start. In fact as you said, if you unplug the IVT solenoid to intentionally throw the code, as long as everything else is fine it will start. Mine was not starting due to the bad wire not providing enough voltage to the coils.

Have you checked your butterfly screws yet. I know you looked into the cylinders thru the spark plug holes and saw no damage. It is too late if you see damage pulling the intake and applying some loctite is easy.
True, I also plan on re-checking the compression because I still don't think I've explained that with this no-start issue fixed. More projects as time permits.
 
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