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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Finally got around to going through the FSM testing procedures. I got through EC1340 and EC1772 for ECM power circuit and ignition circuit and here is what I found:

Found a few more body grounds, cleaned and connected.
ECM relay - good
ECM grounds - good
ECM power - good
ignition condenser - good (although I don't have a capacitance meter, it jumped to zero and rose to infinity when testing resistance)
coil packs - good
continuity to all coil pack triggers (21,22,23,24) - good
continuity from coil packs to ground - good
continuity from pin 12 to condenser to coil packs - good
Voltage on pin 12 with key on - Only 4V, should be 12V - I think I found my problem, bad ECM? Can I jump a fused 12v to it and see if the car will start with out damaging anything else?

So now I'm trying to find the right 5P ecm part number, the ones I find on ebay are out of automatic GXE's. Will that work in my 6spd Spec V? It is a NATS car so I'll have to take it to the stealership for reprogramming as well :(
 

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See, the thing is pin 12 is getting voltage directly from the ECU relay. The ECU isn't giving it voltage, the battery is. When you say the ECM relay is good, how did you check it? Did you try a different ECU relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Reviewing the wiring diagram I was wondering the same thing. I tested the relay per the fsm, voltage on certain connector pins with relay unplugged, ground on others, continuity between ecm pins and relay socket, and also jumpered 12v from the battery to the relay manually to open/close it and test continuity. I guess for how cheap they are I'll buy another relay and capacitor. I'm obviously not in too much of a hurry. Thanks for the help guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I see that a bunch of other relays in the car look common but didn't try that yet. My plan for today is to get the harness reinstalled (unhooked a bunch for access to the voltage condenser) and run a jumper direct from fuse 34+ to ecm pin 12. If it works then I have a problem wire or connector and if not its back to the drawing board. I'll keep you guys posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
I see that a bunch of other relays in the car look common but didn't try that yet. My plan for today is to get the harness reinstalled (unhooked a bunch for access to the voltage condenser) and run a jumper direct from fuse 34+ to ecm pin 12. If it works then I have a problem wire or connector and if not its back to the drawing board. I'll keep you guys posted.
She's alive! Runs noticeably smoother with clean grounds too. Now I just need to trace back and figure out where the break in that wire is and repair. Can't believe with no money spent and 2 months down I finally figured it out.

It ended up being the wire between the relay and e9-f47 connector near where the airbox is supposed to be. Once I pulled the tape back I found a smashed wire with a bunch of conductive goop on it that a previous owner must have done. Here's the post that got me thinking so credit to whoever these guys are from way back...
http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-122585.html

Now I still have codes p1111 and p0113 but it runs and drives for the first time in 2 months!
 

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She's alive! Runs noticeably smoother with clean grounds too. Now I just need to trace back and figure out where the break in that wire is and repair. Can't believe with no money spent and 2 months down I finally figured it out.

It ended up being the wire between the relay and e9-f47 connector near where the airbox is supposed to be. Once I pulled the tape back I found a smashed wire with a bunch of conductive goop on it that a previous owner must have done. Here's the post that got me thinking so credit to whoever these guys are from way back...
ECM Relay Harness...almost there!!!??? (was cranks, won't fire...) [Archive] - B15sentra.net - Nissan Sentra Forum



Now I still have codes p1111 and p0113 but it runs and drives for the first time in 2 months!
I'll have to look into that but I doubt that is going to be my issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Facepalm, forgot to plug in the IVT solenoid. Cleared codes. Drove 50 miles and got p1111 again plus 1706, and 1456. Going to try to fix by oil change, check/clean sensor connections for pnp switch, and screw 1456 we don't have emissions here.
 

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So can the p1111 cause a no start? It shouldn't right? I just finished installing my snail and when it was time to start, it just cranked and pulled up a p1111 code from the ECU. I did a bunch of continuity tests, fuse tests, everything that the FSM can throw at me, but nothing. So finally, I disconnected the solenoid and cranked it. It fired right up. I connected it back and fired right back and no code so far. I actually ended up with a bad #1 ign coil but I don't see that doing anything to the solenoid. I friggin hate this code as there's no real answer to it. I'm just crossing fingers that it doesn't come back.
 

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Facepalm, forgot to plug in the IVT solenoid. Cleared codes. Drove 50 miles and got p1111 again plus 1706, and 1456. Going to try to fix by oil change, check/clean sensor connections for pnp switch, and screw 1456 we don't have emissions here.
Have you checked your butterfly screws yet. I know you looked into the cylinders thru the spark plug holes and saw no damage. It is too late if you see damage pulling the intake and applying some loctite is easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
So can the p1111 cause a no start? It shouldn't right?
p1111 should not cause a no-start. In fact as you said, if you unplug the IVT solenoid to intentionally throw the code, as long as everything else is fine it will start. Mine was not starting due to the bad wire not providing enough voltage to the coils.

Have you checked your butterfly screws yet. I know you looked into the cylinders thru the spark plug holes and saw no damage. It is too late if you see damage pulling the intake and applying some loctite is easy.
True, I also plan on re-checking the compression because I still don't think I've explained that with this no-start issue fixed. More projects as time permits.
 

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Fuck this code.

Drove the spec home Friday after work, stopped at Vatozone for some power steering fill up the PS, then rough idle, a puff of white smoke out the exhaust, does, then no start, cranks good n hard. Walked home to get a cam sensor, walked back to Vatozone, switched out the sensor, started up no issues. Sat morning I drove to the shop, have a leaky oil dipstick, and leaky drain from ps reservoir. Went to Vatozone, then O'Reilly's and I got code p0507, cleared it, then to qt, boom no start after about 7 miles of driving. Walked to Napa and bought new cam sensor, no start. Switched out crank sensor, no start. Pulled plugs and starter fuse, turned motor over, no coolant in engine. Plugged in snapon reader (was using scangauge before), pulled code p1111. Checked relays behind dash, all clicking fine. Checked for spark on ignition wires, all spark was fine. Smells fuel, gas pump primes, throttle body is intermittent. Went to shop, got spare tb, spare cam solenoid thing, new plugs, went back to car, tested turnover before tearing everything apart, car starts up fine, no problem, perfect idle. Drove to shop a good 10 miles, turn off, start right up.

W.T.F.

Thoughts, opinions, what's worked for you, what hasn't? I need some reliability with this as it's the daily.

Thanks.
 

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Daaam bro worst fear ever with this car. That sounds like its possible the phaser solenoid in getting stuck out of time or something. If it drives good with normal power when it wants to, I will assume base timing is ok.
 
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Did some plugs, changed the tb, and the phaser solenoid, and for some reason, the ring on the dipstick was gone. Got a new o ring in there so no more oil everywhere. Had to do a TB reset, but that did the charm. Car started up everytime so far, no more leaks from the engine, the radiator (staying in temp as well) and power steering. I just added another clamp on the hose. I have some back up hose if I need to swap it out. Gotta respray the engine, and polish the header and radiator from all the oil and coolant spraying into them.
 

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Ugh thats a mess. I left an oil cap off a car once. Customer came back 2 days later and extremely not happy. Oops. You are that lucky 0.02% that gets f'd. Youre welcome.
 
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