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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 Spec V. My check engine light is on and I have 3 codes:

P1148 - Closed Loop Control Function Bank 1
P0031 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0037 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 2

The car bucks and is resistant to acceleration when the check engine light is on.

I thought that it was odd that there were codes for both O2 sensors at the same time, all of a sudden, so I looked into what they had in common. I found that the O2 fuse behind the coin tray was blown and I replaced it.

I cleared the codes and started the car up and it drove perfectly normal and the check engine light stayed off for a 40 minute drive. The next time I started the car, the light came back on immediately, the car drove the same way as it had been previously and the same 3 codes are back.

I'm assuming that only 1 or 2 of those codes is relevant to the actual issue and that the other(s) is/are a result of the fuse being blown. I understand what all of the codes mean, but I don't know if I should just throw an (upstream?) O2 sensor at the car and see if that resolves it or what.

Can anyone more knowledgeable than I am point me in the right direction? Thank you very much to anyone who helps in advance.
 

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Check the engine grounds. Then check to see if there is 12/v coming from the harnes to the o2 sensor. On the o2 sensor there should be resistance ( when unplugged) between one of the terminals and the positive and open between the non 12 v and the other wire.. I can check mine tomorrow for actual wire colors and readings. I think the info can be found in this he manual as well. I suspect the opens are shorted in the O 2. But why chance spending the $. If you have a ohm/voltage meter and want to test it tomorrow let me know. I'll walk you through. I pm'd you my number
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@Jon

I briefly checked the engine grounds (at the timing cover) and all seemed fine. I also have a grounding kit in addition to the factory engine grounds.

I have a multimeter and already verified 12V to the Wideband sensor connector terminal 3 (don't remember wire colors) with the IGN ON (as long as the fuse wasn't blown, if I remember correctly).

Honestly, you lost me after that. I genuinely appreciate your offer to help, but I'll be working tomorrow from 7AM until I don't even know when, but I'm sure that it will be dark by the time that I get home and I don't have a garage or even a driveway to work on my car in (no practical light source).

If you could post a more detailed description on here of what to do, I'd really appreciate it and I'd think that anyone else who comes across this thread in the future, seeking help, will too. Please keep in mind that this is a 2006 (I see that you have a 2003) and it has the Wideband O2 sensor upstream (probably different color wires, etc.)

Thank you.
 

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Did you check the full length, best you can, of the wiring for both sensors? Sounds like it's shorting somewhere for sure. Wires may be burned or cracked and shorting randomly because of that.
 

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Try to fix the shorting / fuse blowing issue because that might lead to a much bigger problem.
 

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The heater element on the o2 sensor should have 2 wires same color test the ohms across those if you get between 4-8 ohms its OK if you get ol or a dead short its a defective heater element. It sounds as if you have a short in the heater circuit could be caused by melted or damaged wires or bad o2 sensor if the heater element or wiring shorts to ground it could Is the sensor. If you have one of the ones you have to strip and make the connector? The splicers in those are a bitch and can fail. My volt meter has seemed to go awol. I'll check tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Pretty positive that I found the problem and fixed it (at least for now).

The problem: My air intake (shortened 2J-R CAI w/ filter placement in engine bay near battery) filter rubbed through the insulation of 5 wires in the harness that runs in that area of the engine bay. Wires were shorting out to each other, and possibly to the body.

The temporary fix: Put a piece of tape on each of the 5 wires, covering their exposed parts, replaced the fuse and reset the CEL

After several trips, no check engine light and the car functions normally. This morning, I did some more legitimate wire repair to those 5 wires and wrapped that whole harness in a whole lot of electrical tape.

What gets me is that my intake has been setup like that for quite some time without any issues and then out of nowhere, all of this happened. I don't really know how to be certain that it won't happen again.

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you to everyone who attempted to help me.
 

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Please help
My car is 2008 Nissan Sentra 2.0l petrol
I have these codes P1148 and P0031. Replaced rear upstream sensor with oem Bosch wideband sensor, but am still having the code coming back.
Please help me too


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Check the fuse
 

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I would use NTK. That is OEM

People have problems with Bosch sometimes. Not saying that is your problem.


Do you have a way to check the sensor readings? Like a scan tool or app?

I forget if those codes means it's not working at all. I think, ut I honestly don't remember.

It should have power and work. So...sensor or wires or connectors..,,,assuming it doesn't work at all. Which I "think" those codes mean.

Download the FSM. There should be test procedures.

I don't have spare time today. I won't be able to be much help.

Might just be the sensor. But check for melted wires etc for sure.
 

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Rear upstream sensor? Should be the front sensor, Bank 1 Sensor !.
 

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I would use NTK. That is OEM

People have problems with Bosch sometimes. Not saying that is your problem.


Do you have a way to check the sensor readings? Like a scan tool or app?

I forget if those codes means it's not working at all. I think, ut I honestly don't remember.

It should have power and work. So...sensor or wires or connectors..,,,assuming it doesn't work at all. Which I "think" those codes mean.

Download the FSM. There should be test procedures.

I don't have spare time today. I won't be able to be much help.

Might just be the sensor. But check for melted wires etc for sure.
Yes
I have a scan tool and when I graph the upstream 02 sensor, I see it cycling up and down. But the fuel trims is bad because of the presence of these codes, the ecm can't calculate it well to adjust injector pulse.
Have gone through fsm before and everything seems to work fine.
Had battery voltage in terminal 4 of the sensor harness, and checked for continuity on terminal 3 of sensor harness and terminal 3 of ecm leads.
It's all good
Don't really know where to turn again

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Weird.

:thinking:
 

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I mean.....

The sensor seems to not be heating up enough or not fast enough so the computer is staying in open loop.

It could just be a bad sensor. It does happen sometimes even with sensors that are not that old.

If all wires and connectors look good....i myself would probably replace the sensor.
Expensive gamble I do understand. So...feel free to keep looking for other things being the problem.
 

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I mean.....

The sensor seems to not be heating up enough or not fast enough so the computer is staying in open loop.

It could just be a bad sensor. It does happen sometimes even with sensors that are not that old.

If all wires and connectors look good....i myself would probably replace the sensor.
Expensive gamble I do understand. So...feel free to keep looking for other things being the problem.
Will go through the fsm again
Perhaps there is something I missed
But what I can deduce here is the sensor is not heating fast enough so the ecm trigger that code.
With the sensor I have about four different ones in addition to this Bosch which I use to play with concerning this problem, even ntk. so doubt it's the sensor.
I have such codes anytime I even swap different sensor to the engine. So there must be an underlying problem not the sensor itself.
Btw
Have attached a page in the fsm if you have an idea can you tell me what's the meaning of the things I have underlined in this attached picture in red?
Thanks


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I think those are wire colors and connector/pin numbers.

I suck at diagrams.

If you have sensors amd have tried them....then I feel ya on not thinking it's the sensor and I'm glad you had those to try.

I realize this will sound obvious and not helpful. And I'm sorry....
This kinda only leaves an issue with a wire or connector. Mabye a bad ground maybe.
Last thing I'd suspect is the computer. And not sure how likely that is.

Is there a relay or another fuse? Seems you'd have found out by now. Having the FSM is key ;)

Looks like maybe there is an engine bay fuse box 10A fuse.

God I hate electrical shit lol. I ran into a fuel pump problem myself yesterday. Had no time to look into it again today. I feel your pain.
 
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