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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2006 Nissan Sentra S Sedan 4-Door 1.8L 1769CC l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated

229,000 km


Well, I had a Tie Rod End Replaced and New Tires on the Front. From M+S to M+S...(a different brand). 195/60/15
Next Day, I went to a Body Shop to have the Rear Outer Wheel Wells Repaired.

Somewhere -Thereafter- I Lost about 100km / tank of gas.
I used to get 365km from Full to 1/2 Tank Mark. Now it's more like 300km .... the measurements on the guage are Correct- and this I Regularly Checked and Reset, with My Traveling Pattern.
Very Few Times, I ran it below a Quater Tank, and would have about @630km before the Red Light.
(I Figure it would get about 670km / Tank. I had never run it dry).

Additionally, I used to fill the tank with an extra $2-3.00 after it Filled and shut off - Since I have about 65km to go back home.
Anyway, Now I won't "Overfill".
I tend to put a bit of Extra Air in the Front Tires... (34-35lbs)

I got an alignment done Immediately- and it was off a bit with both tires turning in. However, now it seems to Straddle the Road from LEFT TO RIGHT and is Definately, Hard to Control in High Wind -While Other Cars seem to Hold the Line.
I made another appointment for him to perhaps check/adjust, it a bit...
If Not for the milage Issue, I would have not gone to get it done right away.
It Drove Straight and Held the Line. I had an Alignment done last year.. with New Tie Rod/ Ball Joints/ Control Arms and a Wheel Bearing....

There Doesn't seem to be any Drag or Resistance that I can tell. Rear Brake is Not Sticking - Rolls OK.
No Dash Lights are on...Currently. When the Oil gets low,the Service Engine Light comes on but goes out when Topped Up to Full.


But the AutoBody Shop People were a Bit Sketchy.. which I wasn't really aware of some their Reputation... and I was getting the Feeling they might be.....So I'm wondering if the car had been Sabotaged ... and when.

I was with the Mechanics during the Front End Work and have a Built Trust with them. The Mechanic did a SCAN - there was a bit of an EVAP Leak- but Nothing to Effect the Car in Such a Way... he said.

It Runs and Sounds FINE... EXCEPT FOR THE KM Issue - I can Find NO SYMPTOMS as to what is Wrong.

The Antifreeze is VERY DARK / almost a Black Color- though it Does Not Run Hot on the Thermostat..
Mechanic said it was OK -I'd Like to try to Flush it.
I Believe the Recommended is L25500P Blue Long Life Antifreeze - though it's rather expensive and hard to find (in Canada). but what about alternatives than the above recommended (if not available)?

As for the Gas Quality.. I'm wondering - Should I should check it for Sugar? Though as I say - There is No Sputtering or Backfire- Smoothly Idles -- There's No Smoke Nor Exhaust Leak.

There's lots of Stuff I'm Sure I could do (Plugs/Injectors) but right now - I don't even have enough to call a TowTruck if I break down!

Oil - I don't pay to much attention to nor change - but use 10W or 5W /30 ONLY - Honestly I Never had paid much attention to Oil Changes with Many of My Cars (Mazda/Honda/etc.)... and Never had a Problem. except for the Unpleasant sight.

I've had the car for 2 years and about 50,000km.
I will give it a Change.Should I use 10 or 5W / 30?

Trans Fluid is OK.

I also undid the Clips for the Air Filter -and Gently Lifter the Cover- I didn't take the filter out (but it Looks Ok). One of the Clips is a Bit Rusty/broken - but It still seems to hold it down. .....


O - What Can it Be? Please Don't say ME!
 

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Off the cuff, dark antifreeze is not a good sign. Give it a sniff, does it smell like gas? How often are you having to top up the oil?
Your local parts store premix/concentrate green antifreeze coolant is compatible.

The dark antifreeze has me thinking the worst but if we exclude worst case scenrios... Plan to pull the spark plugs and inspect them. Id pull the air filter all the way out just to be sure its in good condition too.

It also might be worth it to run some fuel system treatment, my preferred is marvels mystery oil. If you can find ethenol free fuel try running a tank of that with the treatment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Off the cuff, dark antifreeze is not a good sign. Give it a sniff, does it smell like gas? How often are you having to top up the oil?
Your local parts store premix/concentrate green antifreeze coolant is compatible.

The dark antifreeze has me thinking the worst but if we exclude worst case scenrios... Plan to pull the spark plugs and inspect them. Id pull the air filter all the way out just to be sure its in good condition too.

It also might be worth it to run some fuel system treatment, my preferred is marvels mystery oil. If you can find ethenol free fuel try running a tank of that with the treatment.
Thanks for the reply,
I'm going to have a look today at some antifreeze. I was was curious as to the Color, and it appears there is green it... and I 've had a look at it a couple of times again. I don't think it's as Dark as I had Originally thought. I'll give it a sniff test too.

I think I'll do an Oil Change as well.... 10W or 5W/ 30?

I hate to pull the plugs- but I'll keep that on the "to do list".

I hate to add engine additives too (in Other Cars)_... but I've Tried them before.. though I don't recall any Noticable Improvements. But again, I'll consider it as well.

I only had the car for about 50,000km and I believe it was well taken care of...and it ran very well.. until this incident.

Thanks again!
 

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If you dont feel like cracking open the drain valve on the radiator you could try and lift some fluid out from the top with a turkey baster or syringe. That might give you a better idea of just how dark your coolant actually is.

As I understand it 10w30 and 5w30 are both compatible. The first number is the winter weight, synthetic oils are designed to flow more easily at lower temps so your engine can lubricate everything properly during startup. I run 5w30 when 10w30 is not available, I just give the engine an extra minute or two to warm up on particularly cold days.

Pulling the plugs might give you more insight than you think. You could discover oil in the plug well's, electrode tips worn down to nubs. excessive carbon buildup. All things that can affect gas mileage.

Im not big on additives either, I've tried the lot and marvels is the only thing I've noticed any improvement with so that's why I suggest it.

And here is where my distrust of everyone starts talking. Did you record the mileage on your vehicle before you dropped it off at the body shop? and compare it immediately upon pickup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for Your Replies, Spanky


I got some Antifreeze Concentrate today and will be Flushing Out that System. I hope there's not a Bleeder Valve but I'll check around the Thermostat.

Thereafter; My Next Plan is to change the Oil.
It's Possible that the Sentra, may have had Syntethic Oil in it when I bought it... but I always used the Regular.
When I Change it and I plan to... I'll Consider the Synthetic. I believe it's going through more oil than when 1st bought it.. and I recently topped it up ... but I see the Service Engine Light is ON....

Yes, I actually did record the Milage before dropping it off.....
But I didn't check to compare when Picking it up..
I did look at the gas which didn't seem to move a hair!
However, when I went to check on the car - because he called me 8 hours later and Said he Finished the Job..SUPRISE!
(Which he didn't do most of the Work/Welding and just Body Filled) I also noticed the Gas Tank Cover was Open. I didn't really want to Question it..But that it was.

Tonight I topped it up from Full to 1/2 Tank - @280 km. When I used to get 360 km per same amount.
Something I had noticed recently is the Burping at the Pump, and Tonight there was some "Spit Out." Can't say that's ever happened before.

I'll work my way to the Plugs and Oil Next.
Thanks again for the Suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Update

I been watching some videos of Various Problems and some things to replace or fix -
I believe this is the Original Vapor Canister Purge Valve Part.
Tints and shades Font Art Rectangle Darkness


Toy Snout Gas Working animal Wood




Some of the Parts seem to be Questionable as to Fitment at Different Parts Stores.
The one below says it fits a Nissan Sentra but clearly is Quite Different.
----------------------------------------------------
14935-AM60B EVAP Vapor Canister Vent Valve Solenoid for Nissan Maxima Altima Murano Armada Rogue Frontier Infiniti G35 QX56 FX35 Replace 14935-AM60A Evaporative Emissions Vapor Canister Purge Valve



Troubleshooting:
1. Starting the Car and Removing the Hoses.. there seems to be No Sucking from the Top or Bottom Valves - but Suction in the Hose itself.

2. After removing the Part with the Engine Off (12mm Wrench)
The Top Valve (closest to the 2 pin Connector) -I can Suck Air in (Very Little) = But Cannot Blow it Out through..

The Bottom Valve - I can Blow Air into the Bottom Valve using a Blub- and it comes- Slightly,of the Top Valve (closest to the Connector).
Wood Tints and shades Grass Terrestrial animal Tail



If anyone can recommend a Parts Place + link (if that's Permitted) that might be helpful. Canadian Tire does not have it in stock nor can they order any.

Dorman For Infiniti FX35 2005-2008 Vapor Canister Purge Valve
US $116.91
Few that say they are the right fitment -and are quite EXPENSIVE! :unsure:

The Plug Gap Size is 0.043, / Platinum Recommended to the best of my knowledge. The Recommended Oil is 5W30 and Synthetic is on sale.


I'm Planning on getting some of this done~ Soon!
Make it so.

Thanking You for Your Help; in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
After Cleaning the Gas Cap with a Damp Cloth
and Area Very Thoroughly
- Taking Off the Cap and Cleaning Around the Throat -Neck and Rim of the Filler Tube as well./
Taking off the Vapor Control Valve, and Pushing Air Through (as in the Photo)- and
Checking a Couple of the Valves on the hoses in the Engine, which were Not Tight..
I Believe the Car is Functioning Normally Again - after driving 230km (Approx. 3/8 Tank of Gas) and still No SES Light.


I Believe the Cleaning and "Maintenace/ Troubleshooting) may have been Time VERY Well Spent!!!

If I do have the Problem again, I'll Re-examine the Vapor Valve and Perhaps try to Clean the Inside with WD-40

I picked up another gas cap (Synt.Oil and Filter/ Antifreeze) but i'll wait for now instead of Replacing the Cap.
 

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I havent run into your particular issue before so I was running out of things to suggest. And since we have two different model sentra's I dont even know if our evap system uses the same components. Thats great news though! A little tlc is all she needed, another b15 lives on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
And the Problem Returns again.
I removed the Purge Valve Under the Hood-
Put some WD-40 in the Valves -Blew Air Through it.

As well - I noticed the Canister Valve (Under the car) had No Clamps on the Hose)
So I put 2 clamps on the hose. I would have liked to taken it Off but it was Covered in Fresh Undercoating - So, I thought the clamps might be the 1st Choice to see if it could fix it.. but it DID NOT.

Replaced the Gas Cap...
Changed the Oil with Syn and New Filter/
Antifreeze (though as soon as I pulled the Plug I could see that "I" was Waisting My Money - it was as Clear as the Liquid I had Premixed. Not sure on why the Reservoir was Dirty..
I also snapped the bolt for the Resevoir.

My Mechanic said he has a "Smoke Machine".
I'm not sure if he was uncertain being able to find the Problem - because he didn't know how to use the machine to do the Diagnosis...or the Machines ability to find the Problem.
I believe you also have to open/close/bypass, the Valves.


I've Ordered a Vapor Canister Purge Sylenoid Valve. ( I hope it the right one and it works.


I was also forced to buy a Battery $192. CAN

my next 3 Troubleshotting Steps:

Removing the Seat to see if there's any Visible Signs around the Pump Hoses and Connectors.

The Vapor Canister Purge Sylenoid under the Hood

Spark Plugs

This is Very Depressing in Many Many Ways!
 
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