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Howdy. I’m wondering if any menbers on here that are still on regularly have experienced rust in these cars? I don’t think I have anything major rust wise that would affect driving but in the 5 years I’ve owned the car, I’m finally seeing how bad the rust actually is. I think there’s a hole in the passenger side by where the shifter is on my Spec-V. I also found one behind the driver side taillight of which I have a picture. I’m just curious what you guys have experienced as far as rust and stuff, especially if any of y’all live in the upper Midwest like I do. Even if y’all might not have solutions, it helps to not feel so alone in the rust problems 😬
172427
 

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Remove as much rust and loose material as best you can with propper air tools and attachments. Spray can self etching primer on bare metal. Dont bondo, no fiberglass or duraglass. Use two part epoxy But its a 3M dual tube bottle and youll need to buy the red gun that operates it. Cut yourself two square pieces of stainless steel sheet metal or what ever you can get but that wont rust. The eopxy Is $40, the one i suggest is panel bond with a work time of 15-30 minutes. Any longer will cause the epoxy to drip out. Both the epoxy and stainless steel are water proof and resistant to weather, neither bondo or fiberglass are water/weather resistant. Pancake the repair and when its dry, smuther the outer work area with a coat of the same epoxy. This is good if its not a load bearing fixture. Requires little exp and it will last a very long time.
 

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You should the underside of my car.......
it makes me cry......
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Remove as much rust and loose material as best you can with propper air tools and attachments. Spray can self etching primer on bare metal. Dont bondo, no fiberglass or duraglass. Use two part epoxy But its a 3M dual tube bottle and youll need to buy the red gun that operates it. Cut yourself two square pieces of stainless steel sheet metal or what ever you can get but that wont rust. The eopxy Is $40, the one i suggest is panel bond with a work time of 15-30 minutes. Any longer will cause the epoxy to drip out. Both the epoxy and stainless steel are water proof and resistant to weather, neither bondo or fiberglass are water/weather resistant. Pancake the repair and when its dry, smuther the outer work area with a coat of the same epoxy. This is good if its not a load bearing fixture. Requires little exp and it will last a very long time.
im grateful for the advice. You’re recommending this for the hole in the picture, right?
 

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Theres a small hole in my lf wheel well from rust. I just recently noticed that a trunk gaps are starting to rust below paint. Dammit
 

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That's water and shit getting into the truck from the rear wheel well, check to make sure it hasn't rusted through i have the same problem, i would noticed after a heavy rain the bottom of the truck had a pool of water couldn't figure out from where then i pulled the truck liner started looking everywhere and boom found the passenger side wheel well had some rust and was a little wet such a poor design on nissan's part!
 

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Yeah and Nissan also misses body filler from the factory as well..
 

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Cant remember if it was the Maxima or the Altima. Came across it twice tho where the body filler between the seams on the drivers kick panel area would have a small space to where water gets thru.
 

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Cant remember if it was the Maxima or the Altima. Came across it twice tho where the body filler between the seams on the drivers kick panel area would have a small space to where water gets thru.
But body filler from the factory? You sure you don’t mean seam sealer or glue?
 

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Thats what I meant. Sorry not sure what to call it. There is a tsb for it but the dealer fixes it for free as a manufacture defect.
 
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