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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Written By: kc03specv

First, get the car up on the lift, or jack stands. And get the bumper off.



Next, i took out my Battery just to make my life easier.



Me using a 10mm and stuby rachet to Loosen the T-bolt clamps. (They are a pain, but work oh so good.)



I dropped the Screw driver to take off the Hose clamp holding the top coupler on



I own this spec-v Jalopie edition!



IC piping all laid out, with the proflow Bypass valve.



What the blower looks like on the car



Another view



Yes...its dark :p Just kidding. its no where near that dark in there. although i could do this in the dark ive done it so many times LOL



Taken the bracket Apart



Action shot! But really, Leave the belt tight on the car (dont touch the tensoner) and just loosen all Four 13/16 inch bolts on one side, The ones closet to the header will be the best, and easiest to work with when you go to put the blower BACK on.



ya...was sup?!



Once you get all 4 loose, Take out the middle two, Then the one in Front, THEN the one in back, the one in back will start to get hard, Just hold the blower up with your other hand. and it will come out very smooth and nice. Just how Kurt likes it....yo hoe!



Now pull the blower back towards the passenger side of the car, and pop the belt off the alt. and then off the blower, and slide it on out



yay! I win!!!




Why the IC piping is out, Might as well clean that maf. If you dont know about this stuff, your already flirting with the devil. since EVERY issue with this car, relates to the MAF someone, You should invest in some CRC MAF CLEANER and SOAK the maf with that stuff. i swear, your rear driver side window would not roll down, clean your maf, and BAM it works. Fucking nissan.



I started to lay out my IC piping (changing a few things) and the first piece coming off the cold side, was hitting, so instead of busting out the cut wheel, i just sliced some vacuum line, Put some bonding adhesive on the inside and stuck it on. now the pipe hits rubber, not metal.




There is a brass looking bracket that is holding the Alt. on. YOu need to take that bracket off, and the Alt. a 14mm wrench and you are good. Once you get it off, The Rev Auto Bracket goes on



Another View (Blurry, i know)



On the bracket, there is a hole that lines up with a hole on the Alt. Stick a bolt through it, and a nut on the other side.



Bolt and nut going on



Dont drop stuff like i do



Once the bracket was on, I decided to tackle the Vacume lines...which is NOT hard. Just a "T" The clear house goes to the boost gauge, the other line goes to my bypass valve.



This is where I "T'd" into for the By pass Valve



So i "T'd" that line and ran it to my bypass valve, THEN, T'd it again, and ran it to my boost gauge. I know alot of people dont like to "T" stuff....oh well. Works pefect. :)

So the line going to my By pass Valve, i Had to get it down into the fenderwell, so there is a opening with the white plastic around it, i just fed it down through there...



You can see it hanging down right here. that bung is where the bypass valve goes.



Tighting some T bolt clamps when you get the IC piping lined up.....They are a huge pain.



Bypass Valve, Vac. line, and IC piping hooked up



With the Cold side all done, Time to focus on the Blower and the Hot side.

The blower off the Car with half of the rev Auto Bracket on it and a Coupler.



Draining the oil...Yes, i am aware i look consipated in that pic. LOL




if this pic where in Focus, it would be a drain plug for the blower *A little metal shavings on the plug are ok..do not freak out over it. Just clean it off, Spray some break clean over it, And spray some into the blower, shake it around, and let it drain out*



A 2.5oz bottle of procharger oil...Pour the whole thing into the blower.




You know you live in teh sticks when you have a caseys right down the road LOL. Putting oil into the blower



Time to put the blower on the bracket you just installed. the EASIEST way i have found to do this, Put the 4 silver "rods" onto the peice of the bracket that bolts onto the blower, and then Since the belt is loose, take it off the AC pulley, pull the belt up and put it around the ALT and blower pulley. Now set the blower down, and Line up one of the outside holes and start to put the bolts in.



If you start the two at the ends, it works best.



The put the rest in, and tighten them down.



What it looks like.



Now time to pipe up the Hotside.



Might have gone a little tight on the T bolt clamps LOL This is why a pipe at least 2.0mm thick is good to have.



There it is all lined up



Full View












Now, you need a way to tune, via, SAFC, Neo, EM, EMU or whatever. Thats it. Simple as that. its REALLY that simple. i feel like its not NEARLY as complex as Gurovs, but the blower is really just that. The piping you get with rev auto, is custom to fit, i made my own IC piping, so mine is a little differnt, and i used a by pass valve, rather than a BOV. If you have a BOV you can have it mounted in front of the maf by the battary, with the bypass, i was getting alot of wasted air, and so i needed to have it down in the fender well down there...the IDEAL spot would be on the hot side some where, so hot air is not going through the intercooler just to be wasted out of the bypass valve.

So you have some choices when getting the kit, all work, but are differnt.
 

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gotta love the search function :)
 

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i feel like doing this with the custom IC piping would be significantly cheaper then buying a entire kit. Could some one please chime in on this idea, ie more info on how much the actual pro-charger is and the bracket. Because then correct me if im wrong you could run what ever intercooler you wanted.
 

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i feel like doing this with the custom IC piping would be significantly cheaper then buying a entire kit. Could some one please chime in on this idea, ie more info on how much the actual pro-charger is and the bracket. Because then correct me if im wrong you could run what ever intercooler you wanted.
I beleive the Procharger sells for around $3K new??? I've seen a used one go for under $900 on ebay. The bracket was part of a kit made by Rev Auto and is no longer being manufactured.
 

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Wow, I didn't realize the actual pro-charger would be that expensive. I wonder if there is simmalar size ones we can have bolted up to that bracket.
 

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Wow, I didn't realize the actual pro-charger would be that expensive. I wonder if there is simmalar size ones we can have bolted up to that bracket.
@MisterNuts

There are a few people who have talked about trying out another brand...forget the name at the moment, but new brackets would have to be made up
 

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You can get a C1 for under 2k. And Rotrex is the brand you are thinking of Gary.
 

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It's not hard to fabricate your own IC piping and intercooler. I have an alternater bracket and supercharger I fabricated &only have to make the 4 spacers between the 2 brackets. Then i wil sell the brackets for any one intetested. You can buy a C1 charger and pulley for $2100 from Brutespeed.com.
 

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Wow thanks for the quick responses guys. I thought they would be similar in price to a turbo so like 600 maybe I will try to find a used one.
 

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IMO if you are going to take the time to fabricate new mounts, get a Rotrex. They are not much more than a Procharger and can rev at least another 40,000rpm and, IMO, have a better design overall. But if you want something cheap, see what you can find used, but keep in mind a rebuild costs around $500 IIRC.
 

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Hmm a 500 for a rebuild, on that's not cheap. I will look into these roterexs could you give me a product code which one I should use like the c-1 equivalent.

edit i did some reasearch, it appears the rotrex c-30 is the same line up as the c-1 procharger. They seem to be quite a bit cheaper but if you need to rebuild them your completly out of luck.
 
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