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QR25DE Precat and Butterfly Screw FAQ

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71K views 68 replies 47 participants last post by  Julio 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Written By: Dangling Fury

QR25DE Precat Issue FAQ


What is this “precat issue”?

The precat (or pre-catalyst) is a catalytic converter located in the stock exhaust manifold. The QR25DE tends to run a fairly rich air/fuel mixture so it is very likely that not all fuel is being combusted in the cylinders and instead combusted in the precat, which can cause it to break apart into small pieces. These substrate pieces get sucked back into the cylinder and damage the cylinder walls, ultimately causing increased oil consumption. It certainly doesn’t help that the precat sits so close to the engine. To the best of our knowledge all precats from 02-06 are of the same make/construction.

The FSM page below shows the location of the precat:



No one knows for sure what percentage of precats go bad, regardless, whether it's 5% or 50% the problem is a real one, enough to necessitate an official recall by Nissan. It is interesting to note that many more Sentras than Altimas are affected by this problem even though they have identical engines/precats. This leads one to believe that the driving habits of the typical Sentra SE-R owner (hard aggressive driving) ultimately contribute to precat failure, most report it between 30k and 60k miles.


What is the official Nissan description?

"Certain engine operating conditions may cause the pre-catalyst to overheat and damage the catalyst substrate. If pre-catalyst substrate particles enter the combustion chamber, they may score the cylinder walls, resulting in increased oil consumption. If the engine oil level is not checked on a periodic basis as specified in the owner's manual and drops below the low level, and the driver continues to operate the vehicle ignoring noticeable engine noise, engine damage may occur which could result in a fire."


What does the precat look like?

Here is an inside pic of a stock manifold right after the 4 primaries (which were cut off). This is a rare look at the top part of the precat since the primaries usually obscure a clear view. Normally the silver part that you see towards the bottom half of the catalyst is supposed to cover the entire surface, however, damage to the precat has caused it to disintegrate, and small dark gray precat substrate pieces were sucked back into the engine.



So what can I do about it?

1. Remove the precat from the stock exhaust manifold (don't worry, you still have another cat in the midpipe). Take the exhaust manifold off the engine and use a long screwdriver to break the precat into pieces and completely remove it, you're going to have to do this from the bottom of the manifold, it's the only way to access the precat. Once all the big pieces are out, scrape the sides to make sure all the small pieces are gone and use an air blower to ensure all particles are removed. Make sure you wear a 3M surgical mask the entire time so you don't breathe in any catalyst dust.

2. Or you can install a catless aftermarket header. If you get a "shorty" (tri-y or 4-1) like Hotshot or Nismo, you essentially replace the stock exhaust manifold and eliminate the precat but again, you still have that cat in the stock midpipe. If you get a "4-2-1" header like the DC Sports or AEBS it will replace both the exhaust manifold with precat and the stock midpipe cat, resulting in no cats at all.



removed the precat but I’m getting an SES light!

The QR25DE has two O2 sensors, one before and one after the precat. On ’02 and ’03 models, both O2 sensors are plugged into the stock exhaust manifold. On ‘04+ models the second O2 sensor is further downstream in the midpipe.

After removing the precat or installing a catless aftermarket header, the two sensors are now reading the same exhaust flow. The second O2 sensor must read a different exhaust stream and send that signal to the ECM to avoid a SES light. You can accomplish this three different ways:

1. Relocate the second O2 sensor behind the remaining cat in the stock midpipe, you will need to extend the second O2 sensor wiring and have a bung welded into the beginning of the catback exhaust. One note of caution, if the wiring is too long, the signal may be weakened to point where the ECM will think the second O2 sensor has failed, resulting in an SES light. The pic below shows the O2 sensor relocated to the beginning of a Stromung catback, before the resonator and after the midpipe cat:



2. Use a "ghetto sim” or anti fouler plug adapter to recess the second O2 sensor away from the exhaust stream. This is the easiest and cheapest method, however, it doesn't always work, especially if the second O2 sensor is still close to the engine. The pic below shows a ghetto sim installed on one of the bungs of a Hotshot header:



3. Get a Casper's O2 sim for the second O2 sensor so it sends a different voltage signal to the ECM. This method almost always works but you need to shell out $50 for the sim. Casper just discontinued their O2 sims so you'll have to look for a used one or go with option 1 or 2.



What about the official Nissan recall?

When you take your Nissan in for the official precat recall, here’s what the dealer will do:

- Reprogram the Engine Control Module (likely to lean out the air/fuel mixture)
- Test the pre-catalyst to determine if it needs to be replaced
- Inspect the pre-catalyst to determine if more extensive repairs are needed
- Install new heat shields
- Change your oil/filter

IMPORTANT: There are numerous instances of precats failing even AFTER the official Nissan recall procedure. The only 100% proven and effective solution is to remove the precat entirely.


What about state emissions testing if I remove the precat?

Catalytic converters work best at high temperatures, this is why the precat sits so close to the engine, it reaches its optimal temperature quicker, thus cleaning your exhaust for the first few minutes after startup. However, the QR25DE comes equipped with a second catalytic converter located in the midpipe. This midpipe cat alone will still allow you to pass emissions after the car has warmed up. If you have a visual inspection in your state (like California) an aftermarket header will obviously cause you to fail, so your best bet is to either use the stock manifold without the precat, or just swap in the stock manifold for the inspection.



QR25DE “Butterfly Screw Issue” FAQ


What is this “butterfly screw issue”?

All QR25DE intake manifolds are “dual stage” and come equipped with two runners in each primary. There are four butterfly valves (or power valves) in the lower half of the intake manifold, one in each runner. Below 5000rpm the butterfly valves remain closed to optimize torque, above 5000rpm the valves open to allow more air into the engine. For each butterfly valve there are two screws that hold them in place. These screws can come loose and get sucked into the engine, causing damage to the head, cylinder walls and/or precat. This issue affects all model year QR25DE engines except '06 which have redesigned screws.


Official Nissan description

"Nissan has determined that on some model year 2004 Nissan Sentra and 2004-2005 Nissan Altima vehicles equipped with the 2.5 Liter engine, there is a possibility that power valve screws located in the intake manifold may become loose. If this condition occurs the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) may illuminate and unstable engine idling or power loss may occur. To prevent this from occurring, Nissan is conducting a Service Campaign to inspect and replace the power valve screws with new ones. In a limited number of cases engine damage may have already occurred; and, if so, more extensive repairs including repair or replacement of the engine or catalytic converter may be required."


What do the butterfly screws look like?

First is a pic of the butterfly valves with all eight screws in place:



Here is a pic of an unfortunate owner who found that one screw was missing:



Finally, certain '05 and all '06 model QR25DE engines have new revised screws:



So what can I do about it?

The fix is relatively straightforward: take apart the intake manifold and tighten the screws along with a very small drop of loctite on the threads of each screw.

Here is a great writeup:

http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific.../9009-loctite-secondary-butterfly-screws.html

Below is a diagram from the FSM which includes torque specs for all the bolts and screws:



What about the Nissan Voluntary Service Bulletin?

Nissan will install new butterfly screws for you, but this only applies to certain ’04 and ’05 models even though it has been proven that ’02 and ’03 models have the same issue. ’06 models already have redesigned screws installed from the factory, only time will tell how effective they are.
 

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#35 ·
if you're sure it went thru the motor, pull off the exhaust, also check yuor compression as well in case there was damage from it passing thru. hope you at least have a catless header...
 
#39 ·
No, Sorry. They are pretty small screws, maybe someone on here has an extra and can tell you dimensions or something.

Hey guys, what are the symptoms of a precat issue? Im not waiting for symptoms but nobody mentions for at least know what to expect in case u havent done it
SES light, oil consumption.
These will happen after your precat goes and it's too late. Better to replace the header (it's not that hard yourself) than rebuild an engine (much harder to do yourself).
 
#40 ·
So while changing my blown headgasket i went ahead and loctited my butterflys. They were all loose and the far right one was missing a screw and the flap was sitting sideways. I went and ordered the screw from the dealership. Had to buy a ten pack. As they dont sell them singely. I went ahead and cleaned the intake mani. Upper and lower. just with brushes. Do you think that is ok to do? Its not like a full P&P.
 
#44 · (Edited)
Butterfly Screw and Power Valve Part Numbers!

Getting my Butterfly valves installed again and it was a pain to find the part numbers for the screws and valves, so I thought I'd put them here to save others the trouble:

Power/Butterfly Valves:
Nissan Part # 14513-8J000
Screws (Updated Version):
Nissan Part # 14511-8J00B
 
#49 · (Edited)
Don't do it. I had a brand new pre-cat from Magnaflow fail within 12k miles on a fresh motor with new sensors everywhere. Code P0420 came on, I cleared it and it came back. I pulled the pre-cat and sure as shit, it was breaking apart already! Get yourself a header and don't look back. It'll save your motor....

The header didn't make the car sound raspy at all with the stock exhaust. Put an O2 spacer on the lower sensor to keep that P0420 code in-check.
 
#64 ·
Alright peeps.........what is the consensus on removing these valves on us boosted QR25s? I have talked to 2J and Joe himself and heard his thoughts on losing torque down low and to do the Loctite fix. Also heard about that baller B16 plenum kit, but I am not doing that.
My wrench/friend of mine really thinks taking them out completely is the way to go.

I am not only built+boosted, but I am on a 2.7L stroker setup. I don't want all of my daily driving city torque to go away, but after being tuned I'd imagine I will be fine without the butterfly valves in. I'm on a 5831 Precision; 58 trim almost 600whp rated.

Boosted QR25 folks thoughts?
 
#65 ·
2.7L stroker? More info on that please.

I am also looking at a 400-500whp build/setup. I have my butterflies welded in place and will be using a Hobbs switch to open them at a specific boost level (to be determined on a dyno). There are a number of other switches you can use to control them as well, but the Hobbs is pressure activated.
 
#68 ·
Yes. Read the first post on this thread to learn what you can do about it.
 
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