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Discussion Starter #101
A picture tells a thousand words.
Thanks :)

Now I won't be needing spacers on the rear but thought it best to have the same lugs all-round for the look.
Wondering about studs for the rear though but 2jr don't do standard length in the forged racing studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Xtrail Rim.jpg

The standard cap nuts are only 25mm long
Xtrail Cap Nut.jpg

and the wheel nut holes are 40mm deep
Xtrail Rim Stud Holes.jpg

so the 2jr lugnuts being 35mm long shouldn't stick out past the rim.

Just got to check how far the 55mm studs for the rear and 82mm for the front will protrude
 

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Did a little comparison for you, as I have both sizes of extended studs, stock, and the muteki lug nut
20180801_114900.jpg

The lug nut is 48mm overall length
The stock stud is 46mm overall length
The shorter extended stud is 72mm overall, and
The longer extended is 87mm overall length

if you note from my earlier tire/wheel picture, with the 15mm spacer the longer extended stud does not extend past the lug nut, and no matter which stud you use, the lug nut will extend from the wheel the same distance. If you do not want the lug nuts to extend as far (I find it handy for removing and installing them with the knurling on the outboard end) you will need to source shorter, open ended lugs. if you use no spacers, it will not be an issue to use stock acorn type lug nuts and stock studs. Anything over a 5mm spacer will need at least the shorter of the extended studs and an open end lug nut, assuming you opt for a shorter lug nut.

Hope this helps, and makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
OK so the extended studs are 72 ans 87 overall length though the 2jr website states 55 and 82
What are the thread lengths on all 3 to give me a better idea of how much "bite" I'll have on the threads from the lugnuts ? @shanover
Glad you got all 3 handy for me to ask these questions as being so remote over here makes it a little risky ordering off partial website info. If 2jr had dimensions of stud, thread and end lengths it would be a lot easier for me to decide.
I know I can probably get extended studs and pump locally but experience you guys have with 2jr stuff gives me more confidence that things will work and fit.
 

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OK so the extended studs are 72 ans 87 overall length though the 2jr website states 55 and 82
What are the thread lengths on all 3 to give me a better idea of how much "bite" I'll have on the threads from the lugnuts ? @shanover
Glad you got all 3 handy for me to ask these questions as being so remote over here makes it a little risky ordering off partial website info. If 2jr had dimensions of stud, thread and end lengths it would be a lot easier for me to decide.
I know I can probably get extended studs and pump locally but experience you guys have with 2jr stuff gives me more confidence that things will work and fit.
ok, figured you would ask that next, actual thread length, measured from the base of the threads, to the topmost thread, as so:
20180801_180551.jpg
stock: 27.2mm

extended, not counting the lead in on the tip, as so:
20180801_180736.jpg

47 mm for the shorter extended, 59mm for the longer

hard to get a pic, cause I only have two hands, lol
 

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also, keep in mind, 90% of thread 'bite' force is contained within the first three threads. this is a known mechanical state for threaded fasteners. basically, 5 full turns of threads at most will give you the full yield strength of the fastener, be it bolt , nut, or stud. Unless you get into some of the more exotic threaded fasteners (acme thread, etc)
 

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also, ideally, you would need the rim thickness between the beveled area, and the rear face of the rim that bolts to the rotor/hub assembly. to get you this measurement, I would have to remove a wheel, or dig a spare stock rim out of my shed. this would give you a better idea of how far the lug nuts would 'stick out' from the rim. also consider the rotor thickness, and the thickness of any spacers you may be using. also to note, without the spacers on the rear, I cannot run with the hub covers on, as they interfere with the wheel center caps. I know that is only because of the rims I choose to run, and stock never had that issue, but its something to think about when YOU are figuring out YOUR ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
I'll take all my measurements from my rims, rotors and OEM studs.
What I needed were the thread length measurements from someone over there which you were able to give me.
All this then should help me decide which studs I need for front and rear to order them with the pump. Which type of pump I'll have to trust Joe on since your fuel canister is most likely different from mine.
 

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on the studs

note on my pic they are sunk inside the lug nuts
while they are even on shanovers

for the small difference in length
why take chances
imo
go with the longer lugs

the 55s installed do look short
20170811_130338 by Barry Belgard, on Flickr

you can see where the rounded ends , come to the surface
2jr titanium lug nuts, 55mm rounded end studs, large pad wheels
equivalent to stock wheels with 25mm spacers [[20mm offset wheels]
DSCN0551 (2) by Barry Belgard, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #111
take your time
Wanting to do this correctly and because of my enquiring engineering mind, I have thoughts about what might be different with this supercharger build from your turbo builds.
In particular is forces on the rods and crank.

In your turbo builds, though you are achieving 350whp with 16lb boost, this would be coming in after say 3000rpm or higher.
By this time the engine has quite some rotating momentum.
With my supercharger potentially generating close to max boost almost from idle, I'm expecting there will be much greater forces on the rods and crank at low rpm than in your builds.
To me this suggests that even though the stock parts might be able to take 350whp with a turbo build, I might need the 500hp I-beam rods just for the higher forces at low rpm.

Also, how will the crank handle it all ?
Mine is a 2003 QR25DE 1st Gen engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Measured my wheel studs.
Length is 45mm with an exposed thread of 32mm
Stud Length.jpg
Stud Thread.jpg
So with the 20mm spacers I will need a thread length of atleast 52mm to use my existing capnuts or lugnuts if longer.
That means the longer studs with 59mm of thread for the fronts.

On the rears although I won't be adding any wheel spacers and can use the existing studs, I'll get some of the shorter studs to keep everything the same.
The extra 15mm if thread shouldn't matter as the lugnuts will extend further.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Registration is due in the next couple of weeks.
Once it has been passed I will have 12 months to pull the engine and rebuild but hope to have it finished by Christmas.
After the block has been done and the crank inspected I'll be deciding on pistons and rods.

Been reading more in a thread about the B16 pistons and rods in a B15. Also some comparisons between pistons in QR25DE engines in different models.
Not sure which QR version I have in my Xtrail here but it does not have the top engine mount so I assume it is the same as your B15 version. @yogi b
Read your post regarding 2j turbo pistons and forged rods. Much to be considered with this 1st M90 build for a QR25DE.
 
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