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I am trouble shooting and unsure about what to test with my volt meter.
The manual shows to disconnect the relay from the connector.
I get that , - (ground) goes to ground.
Do I test 2 and 5 terminals independently or do I connect 2 and 5 together to + (red)?

Anyway this is on page EC-1609 of the 03 Sentra FSM :thinking:


My hope is that if I can trouble shoot through this P1122, I will eventually get better and do an engine swap. Baby steps. :baby:
 

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I am trouble shooting and unsure about what to test with my volt meter.
The manual shows to disconnect the relay from the connector.
I get that , - (ground) goes to ground.
Do I test 2 and 5 terminals independently or do I connect 2 and 5 together to + (red)?

Anyway this is on page EC-1609 of the 03 Sentra FSM :thinking:


My hope is that if I can trouble shoot through this P1122, I will eventually get better and do an engine swap. Baby steps. :baby:
check them one at a time, 2 and ground, 5 and ground
did you do a throttle relearn?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The good news.... after trouble shooting 1122 the code disappeared.

The bad news.... codes 2135, 0222, 0223, 0122, 0123 all popped up, all TPS Throttle Position Sensor codes..

I'm really good at testing voltages and continuity, and pedal dance key turning learning now, since I tested everything as described in the FSM for these codes.

Everything checked out as good sort of...



My reading for 73(TPS1) Fully released .76V
My reading for 73(TPS1) Fully depressed .96V

My reading for 74(TPS2) Fully released 4.36V
My reading for 74(TPS2) Fully depressed 4.18V


When I say sort of I mean the variance on my readings is only .20V and .18V

This is with a new rebuilt TPS (Throttle Body and sensor from Rock Auto).

Anyway I'm still in Limp mode, throwing the same codes.

I think it's the ECU at this point, what do you guys think?

By the way no air leaks past MAF, new PCV Valve, thats all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My car has no NATS immobilizer system, my new ECU is a NATS ECU. So I think I would have to buy the rest of the NATS system to make the NATS ecu work, and do some re-wiring. I've read that there is a way to change from Nats to non-nats, but if there's a way to by-pass it on the ECU only I'm super interested. Does this make any sense?
 

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My car has no NATS immobilizer system, my new ECU is a NATS ECU. So I think I would have to buy the rest of the NATS system to make the NATS ecu work, and do some re-wiring. I've read that there is a way to change from Nats to non-nats, but if there's a way to by-pass it on the ECU only I'm super interested. Does this make any sense?
there is a way to jump it from inside the ecu but its more complicated then the how to i did and if you're not electronically inclined i don't recommend it
 

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oh, if you're gonna convert your car to NATS you'll need the NATS module, minor wiring and someone to program your key/ecu/immobilizer
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
there is a way to jump it from inside the ecu but its more complicated then the how to i did and if you're not electronically inclined i don't recommend it
Hey if I screw up the ecu by jumping it from the inside, no big loss. However if I jump it and it works it would be like winning the lotto. I'm not afraid to try.... hey I took grade eight electronics and made a photo electric night light... LOL Oh and it worked :) Anyway I'd rather not pay nissan to program keys and buy Nats stuff at this point. I'm trying to keep my costs on tha down low cause I just blew the biggest wad ever on my house and I gunna be paying for that shit a loooonnnggggggg time :evil:
 
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