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· The Watcher
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting ready to install the trans and will figure out when to do the engine, here is an image over view.

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Two pins are about the same size, I believe one is just a hair shorter but as seen the retaining lip is at different heights. Now unfortunate for me, I took the zip tie off to inspect everything and afterwards sat it down and it sat until it was moved/dropped/relocated by someone and the pins feel out so I have to figure out which side they go in.

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What it looks like in the lower mount/carriage. Obviously its not centered while sitting on the tabs and I don't remember if the stock stuff sat the same way in the same scenario.

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Just displaying circlip and how much is protruding when simulating with the lip flush.

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From the last image I should be able to figure out which side the pins go in but I have no idea what side the lip goes on and I don't think it matters but I'm projecting to install it with the lip pointing towards the front.

More to come...
 

· The Watcher
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7,556 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had the b13 prothane bushings in with some delrin pucks for some time, it held but there was some sag when I went to pull it off and the front was being pushed in. Not bad but had some draw backs.
 

· The Watcher
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Continuing on...

Tight fit and decided to press it in.

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Had a little oopsie when I had to readjust to finish pushing it through.

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Here we have the amount of protrusion without and and with the circlip.

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All else is self explanatory.

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Will start on the pass. side either today or tomorrow....
 
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· The Watcher
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7,556 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Decided to start on the pass. side, image over view...

The center sleeve is really tight when seated and has no play when removing, the washer on the back side of the mount sat in there with no support and had to be tapped out from its location.

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And time for a BBQ...
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All separated.
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Past the point of no return. I am unable to push the pin out of the piece that mounts to the engine and have to saw though two thick pieces of metal of the mount...wish I had a band saw or saw-zaw for that and I might have to drill the pin out or find a stronger press.
 

· The Watcher
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7,556 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cut into the metal sleeves to the point of not touching the mount itself and beat the shit out of it....F'N PITA...
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Pressed it in as I couldn't find my mallet, finished product while trying to show clearance for the circlip.
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Inserting the pin takes more effort, I'm assuming due to a slight compression of the material, deformation of the mount during manufacturing or I messed up.

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· The Watcher
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll start by saying that my press is weak (Harbor Freight) and the pin can be pressed out and in the end I basically used a pin and a sledge hammer.

The engine side of the pin has tight tolerance to the engine side mount so had to press it in...of course.
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Put back together and "mount" as "normal", with a "little" extra effort. Now sitting all pretty and still.

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I will say that I don't think the full through bolt/nut combo is absolutely necessary due to the amount force keeping the pin on the engine side mount, but I understand the intent and feel tapping the chassis side of the pin for an adequate bolt would suffice.

About to pull it out of the garage but did start it and it feels solid but I wish I didn't re-install my Rev Auto tq dampener before hand to isolate the mounts performance, at the same time I probably don't need it anymore since I have these mounts and the V1R plate as well.
 

· The Watcher
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just pulled it out and the vibes are different, will drive it later when I need to but some noises that I have been dealing with are now gone, assuming due to the angle of how the motor was sitting with the b13 Prothane bushings for the trans and the original pass mount and the abuse it has taken.

New vibes unlocked....
 

· The Watcher
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
New noises from the added vibs as expected. I haven't really ripped it up to 8k yet but obviously solid. I feel as though they are "breaking in" as certain rpms are not as NVH from initial install.

The b13 trans bushing mod is really not recommended for long term and it is really hard to pin point if the tired out pass side bushing was done but some of the shifting seems easier and I think there was some added wear on the cv boots due to misalignment during operation. Previously my oil level was fine but afterwards it was reading low which means I have been running with inadequate levels of oil.
 
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