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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Written By: Specd_out

Parts needed.
15 Ft 0 or 2 gauge wire
2 X 2ft of 8 gauge wire with eylet connections



Large battery terminals



Distribution Block. something with a 0 guage in and at least 2 8 gauge out



Battery box



* Route the wire first this way you will be able to see where you have to mount the battery box and the power block
* I ran mine down and out of the engine bay



Over and out of the way of the steering rack. there is a place to zip tie in that area



*Over the top of the Control arm brace




* Into the drivers side sideskirt and the out of the side skirt by the rear wheel



*Up along the evap lines over the rear axle. You can zip tie and follow the evap lines all the way back



* You will have to lower the evap box so you can get axcess to a rubber gromet for the wire to get in the trunk. There are 4 bolts and 2 pop clips and it will come off.
* pull out the rubber gromet and push the wire through the hole into the trunk
* It will come up right in the little nook on the left side of the trunk
* Make a small cut in the carpet. These will allow the wire to come through and look very clean



* Use one of the 2ft 8 gauge wires and find a location to ground it. I used a self tapping screw and attached it to the floor.
* Set the battery box where you want it and screw it down. Make sure to check that you dont screw through anything important.
* Drop the battery in and connect the ground wire.





Moving back up front we have to mount and connect the power block. here is the location I used




***Fuse Box

* Take fuse box off of battery tray and remove battery tray from the car. It should be 4 14mm bolts that can be very tight
* Cut the mount off the battery try that holds the fues box. Reccomend using a grinder or sawzall
* Using a L bracket attach one side to the fuse box bracket and the other to the location you chose. here is mine





* Connect one end of the 2ft 8 gauge wire to the power terminal inside the relay box
* Cut the other eylet off. strip the insulation back and insert into the powerblock. Tighten down
* The next wire to be connected is the starter wire.
* Again cut the eylet off of the wire strip back the insulation and insert into the power block. tighten down



*Connect Positive wire and make sure everything still works
A side note is that if your power block comes with fuse I have found that 150 amps works fine
 

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you can run the wire inside the car under the floor board behind the rear seats.. no need to go under the car...
and then loom the wire so its nice and clean.
 

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I used welder cable on my last car... not real expensive and if ya think about how much curret flows in a welder, it probably has less loss than the original battery cable!
 

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Would be great if you have the OP credit for this..

Spec_Out is the OP on TSVB FYI
 

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I was about to do this, but the lock to my trunk is busted. That means if my battery dies, I have no way of getting to it.

Bummer! :(
 

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i have a 4g power wire for my subs that i got rid of would this be as easy as just buying teminals a box and a power block since everything is already wired to the trunk? or is 4g not big enough?

yes i did see that he put 2 or 0 g but i remember reading somewhere that said 4g would be enough
 

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4 ga. should be fine, especially if it's 100% copper. I'm running 0 gauge, but it's aluminized copper, which isn't as condusive as pure copper, although much lighter.

If you have an Optima or other sealed battery, you don't need a box, just a good tie down.
 

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yeah i have copper wire ill give it a shot. anyone upgraded any other cables such as fuse box,starter or alternator?
 
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