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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Im having an issue with the spec v having a really rough idle at cold starts. But it only does it temporarily and then smooths out. I have tried cleaning out the injectors. The only thing that has changed lately was I deleted the second cat after it backed up on me and was pushing exhaust out of the donut gasket (so no cats whatsoever. yes, it sounds like shit). I looked at plugs, and besides being shitty autolites, they are platinum and are gapped right at .044 like they are supposed to be. I have had packs give out on me before, and usually those get worse the hotter it gets. not vice versa. i havent paid attention to the cold start rpm. do i need to do another relearn on it? needing help on this one. hard to process my thoughts with my ADD. thanks guys/gals.
 

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get some good spark plugs the cars don't like cheap parts.
 

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Yes you should pay attention to the idle rpm.

How high is it idling on cold start???

Are you in TN?
 

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Yep you are. Hey! I joined a month after the last time you posted on the forum. LoL long time.

Check if it idles high like it should on cold start. If it's not idling up on cold start I would suspect the temperature sensor
 

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A blown head gasket is also a possibility.
Make sure to monitor coolant levels in both your reservoir and radiator, and if needed run a compression test.


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Discussion Starter #6
I am losing coolant, however, there is a visable leak from around the thermostat i just havent gotten around to fixing yet. slow leak. runs out of coolant about every 6 months or so and runs hot momentarily until I top it off. No smoke visable at any time through tailpipe of any color. Vehicle does not overheat at all. Does not sputter after the engine is started and smooths out. No loss of power or throttle response. I did a compression check and it was around 140 across the board. This particular problem started far after that leak, but right after the cat was deleted. Ive recently replaced the autolite platinum plugs for ngk nickels. Problem still persists. I thought maybe a fuel issue. However, I depressurized the system and put the fuse back in. I didnt wait one second to start the car, and it fired right up (because it was warm). The condition only happens if the car has been sitting for a period of time. Say over 2 hours. Temps in the car are reading fine. No check engine lights (despite cats being deleted). Car idle goes high around 1200 rpm on cold start and slowly lowers. Ive done multiple relearns on it thinking maybe it was timing control or something. To no avail.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Note: Just drained a couple ounces out of oil pan to make sure it wasnt milky or discolored. It looked fine. There is some signs of a milky substance near the oil cap. However, none are present in the drain pan, and (like i said) it isnt smoking at all, so nothing is getting in the combustion chamber.
 

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fuel pressure not holding over night?
 

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Valve seals leaking. How's oil consumption?
Fix that coolant leak it won't heal on its own! Not to mention getting air in system when it gets low. Purge out the radiator and cooling system too.
 

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Last year I had this exact problem. Rough start combined with coolant "leak". The coolant issue is the first thing I noticed. Then the hard starting, which progressively got worse with time. Problem was failed head gasket. If you (or your mechanic) can spot coolant in the Cylinders, boom, you have it right there. You don't want to let that go without a fix for too long.

FYI: My mechanic gave my motor an "excellent condition" grade after inspecting it when the head was removed. They sent the head to a shop for inspection/conditioning, and when they put it back together there was an oil leak. Turns Out™ the head shop failed to specify a custom thickness gasket after they did their thing, and the now-incorrect gasket thickness caused a misalignment when everything bolted back up, causing the oil leak. (the shop fixed the error at no extra cost to me, once we figured out what was going on.)
 
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