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DarkStar is always coming in Clutch. lol


You got a list of parts numbers for timing kit on a rebuild by chance?
OE or aftermarket? What year and submodel is your car?
 
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Both OE and Aftermarket if you got em.

2003 Sentra SER SpecV

and

2004 Sentra SER SpecV


Maybe we should make a new thread with this info?

It's rebuild time and I'm sure a lot of guys would appreciate it.
 

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Both OE and Aftermarket if you got em.

2003 Sentra SER SpecV

and

2004 Sentra SER SpecV


Maybe we should make a new thread with this info?

It's rebuild time and I'm sure a lot of guys would appreciate it.
Do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
Today I found a brand spanking new starter, not remanufactured, the car started to finally crank but still wouldn’t start, since it was finally cranking over I was finally able to do a compression test and my heart sank, clylinders 1 to 3 were at 90 and 4 was at 110, I’m guessing the rings are no bueno....

At first I couldn’t hear the throttle body moving so I changed it with a spare I had and could hear it, I could also hear the cylinders trying to fire through the exhaust

Out of curiosity I tried changing out the fuel injectors but still nothing and there was fuel in the rail when I pulled it out...

This shit has made me depressed as fuck!
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Looks like I’m gonna have too, I really wanted to drive it this summer
 
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Did you do a dry or wet compression test ?
Put some oil in the cylinders to do a wet test and see if the compression is better. If it is then that will tell you it is the rings, otherwise it is a head gasket or valve seals.
 

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qft... I was ready to go a couple months ago when I found my block divit issue. Compression was at 115 in three cylinders and 98 in the cylinder w/ the divit. Looks like I'll be running maybe next summer? lol

It happens to us all man. Nature of the beast.
 

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qft... I was ready to go a couple months ago when I found my block divit issue. Compression was at 115 in three cylinders and 98 in the cylinder w/ the divit. Looks like I'll be running maybe next summer? lol

It happens to us all man. Nature of the beast.
Your compression. Was that low with 11.5.1 pistons?

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Discussion Starter #91
I did a dry test, yesterday I decided to go back to try and do a wet test but then the car wouldn’t even turn over again....

I got so pissed literally the day before it was cranking and now nothing the battery could be getting weak tho

Also out of curiosity I decided to take the little timing chain cover off and I noticed the timing marks were off by like a tooth which I found weird, I guess it skipped a tooth at some point, I lined all the marks back up again but that’s when I noticed the whole no cranking thing now again, ?

This thing is really trying my patience....
 

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Discussion Starter #92
qft... I was ready to go a couple months ago when I found my block divit issue. Compression was at 115 in three cylinders and 98 in the cylinder w/ the divit. Looks like I'll be running maybe next summer? lol

It happens to us all man. Nature of the beast.
Your compression. Was that low with 11.5.1 pistons?

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Lol why do you keep thinking I have 11.5 pistons internals are stock!
 

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Lol why do you keep thinking I have 11.5 pistons internals are stock!
Not you lol. Tony's motor has 11.5.1 and so does my other built block. Then my other motor has 8.5.1 pistons and my compression is is around 95

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If you haven't tried it already I would check signal from the cam and crank sensors while cranking the engine. Without them syncing their signals injectors and plugs wont know when to fire.

Just remember Fuel, Air, and Spark. If you know your timing is correct then the culprit will be one of these for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Lol why do you keep thinking I have 11.5 pistons internals are stock!
Not you lol. Tony's motor has 11.5.1 and so does my other built block. Then my other motor has 8.5.1 pistons and my compression is is around 95

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Lol I had to double check that post to realize you didn’t respond to me haha
 

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Discussion Starter #96
If you haven't tried it already I would check signal from the cam and crank sensors while cranking the engine. Without them syncing their signals injectors and plugs wont know when to fire.

Just remember Fuel, Air, and Spark. If you know your timing is correct then the culprit will be one of these for sure.

Both the cam and crank sensors were changed out to the updated metal ones from Nissan years ago....that was the only time my car actually left me stranded on the side of the road

How can I check the signals?? Would I use a test light or something, I do have one of those stethoscopes and I tried to listen to the injectors when it was cranking and I couldn’t hear anything I figured I wasn’t just putting it on a good spot, you should hear a rapid clicking right??

Also a question, low compression could mean piston rings are no bueno, could that cause a no start issue as well? I imagine it would...
 

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If timing is off it won't start, just reset everything.
 

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In some excessive amount, a compression loss would contribute to a no start condition, however with 90psi (IIRC from earlier in the thread) you should have enough compression to at least want to start.

I'm thinking either you have a timing concern or an issue with fuel/air/spark.
-Check fuel pressure (with help of assistant disconnect fuel supply line at fuel rail and aim toward recovery receptacle [like a drain pan] then cycle the key and look for the fuel pump to create pressure)
-Check for spark while cranking (with help of assistant unplug any coil while cranking the engine and listen for the spark to short onto the engine [sound like loud ticking])

If the vehicle is providing fuel and spark then the camshaft and crankshaft sensors have synchronized and you will know your timing is ok.

Do you have a test light/noid lights or possibly a Multimeter?
 

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Discussion Starter #100
In some excessive amount, a compression loss would contribute to a no start condition, however with 90psi (IIRC from earlier in the thread) you should have enough compression to at least want to start.

I'm thinking either you have a timing concern or an issue with fuel/air/spark.
-Check fuel pressure (with help of assistant disconnect fuel supply line at fuel rail and aim toward recovery receptacle [like a drain pan] then cycle the key and look for the fuel pump to create pressure)
-Check for spark while cranking (with help of assistant unplug any coil while cranking the engine and listen for the spark to short onto the engine [sound like loud ticking])

If the vehicle is providing fuel and spark then the camshaft and crankshaft sensors have synchronized and you will know your timing is ok.

Do you have a test light/noid lights or possibly a Multimeter?
Bit of a late response

But yes I do have both a test light and a multimeter that bought to try and figure all this out
 
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