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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had to get a replacement shifter base to replace my damaged and jerry-rigged temp fix base, was suprised to see a difference between the 03 and 04....but none the less, I went ahead and ordered another B&M knock off to drop in to reduce over all swap time.

I don't think anyone ever did side by side comparisons of the sticks off the base, and in reality its a PITA to get them "even" for the image to show their differences but here I am going to try...
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Nothing special but there are some differences in the angels especially on the perch for the cable which would lead to cable snapping....if improperly shifting to begin with or mechanical issues....

I will not be using the arm that is on the new kit. Next post I will show what I have done to arm that is currently in the car and plans to further expound on other modding due to clearance of the console and the re-centering to off set the tranny mounted STS.

Will also test some other things out for my own curiosity....but I won't be fully installing it in just yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Part II
Had someone machine part of the arm in a manner that I would recenter the stick, it resulted in quite a bit of materiel being removed.

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I then turned my attention to the new bolt hole, ended up using a bit that was too larger and later had to heli-coil it. It is damn near on point as I did generic marking and measuring.

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One of my gripes about the kit was the hardware and the amount of "space" it took up, this coincides with the arm itself too but that's another point for later. As I wasn't using the original bolt combination that came with the kit I decided to work with some ideas. was going to use normal allen cap screws but went with a dome head.

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I bored down into the arm at both pivot points till I could get a "flush" fitment with the top of the bolt and the surface of the arm.

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For reference, here is what the holes look like. I used a drill and drill bit to make them so they are not pretty.
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All A proof of concept that works but there are some other ideas that I am going to try but I have to find a place to do the machining I want done. Next post I'll cover some ideas I have for the next iteration.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sub post to add to my concept....

A company did an in cabin shifter assembly that was/is some what based off the B&M but was more refined and sleeker, I regret not ordering it as I had a B&M knock off already installed.

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That is the actual brand and as you can see the arm is slimmer, I would assume made out of steel. For me, again, the arm is too short and needs to be extended. This eliminates one issue though that the B&M has but also has a similar issue that I will cover later.
 
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Sub post to add to my concept....

A company did an in cabin shifter assembly that was/is some what based off the B&M but was more refined and sleeker, I regret not ordering it as I had a B&M knock off already installed.

View attachment 173792

That is the actual brand and as you can see the arm is slimmer, I would assume made out of steel. For me, again, the arm is too short and needs to be extended. This eliminates one issue though that the B&M has but also has a similar issue that I will cover later.
It mist be a rare find now, I couldn't discover it myself. I did find this though, anyone had any experience with it?

Fidanza Short Throw Shifter - 891845 - 2002-2006 Nissan Altima & Sentra
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Continuing on...

One of the issues I have always had, even with the stock shifter, is that in neutral the stick is not actually centered. Yes physically it is centered in the center console location but not centered in the sense of the side to side so to speak...hard to explain but it is more of a niche issue with me. I believe some manufactures have the stick slightly off centered in relation of it being physically position in the center console to compensate for the extra travel required for reverse in 6 speed cars, this is not hindered but what ever location engaging reverse is in.

The B&M magnifies this as well due to how THICC everything is...for reference the first image with the shifter in 2nd gear and the other is in reverse.

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A massive difference in travel from one side to the other, but I re-emphasize the niche aspect that I mention earlier and the fact that the issue is for reverse but I am running into the bezel. Well I do have the V1R detent spring kit which has made the issue slightly worse. Here is what it looks like underneath the boot in the same order:
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I'm sure my current underlying issue which will be resolved when I swap in the new assembly will provide some clearance but for the off chance it doesn't I'll be going over possible fixes in the next post.

Biggest thing though is how much space it takes and how it collides with the plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Little bit of a unexpected lie from the previous post. Had to swap out the bases so the new base is in and the old base is set to the side for side stuff. One thing that was noticed is that my centering spring on the base was not seated properly which was causing some of my bezel contact, contact is now reduced but is still closer than what I would like.

On to some grit, below you can see the issue that plagues this style of shifter with the snapping of cables:
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You can clearly see the slight bend and I wouldn't have noticed it unless I was in the position I was in, don't remember why I was there but that's not the point. This is produced going into 1, 3 and 5 in the event of an improper shift, mis-shift or clutch engagement issue. I was having some issues that caused it and remedied it.

I was able to straighten it with a few taps.
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Will be keeping an eye on it but to try and reduce the issue I am going to try and shave as much materiel of and get as close to the bolt hole as I can and leave as little as I can to "clamp" the cable. The hole is not round when the pieces bolt back together so I want to fix that as it reduces the cables "natural" flex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So looks like I had an issue after my shifter popped out a couple years ago....

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Not supposed to look like that, one of the rod ends of the spring is supposed to be under the black part...now this did make some issues a little worse when I reflect on it but some how I got by just fine....I guess.

Any who....plans for the arm.....anything in black is what i want or would like removed when I get with a machinist.


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As said before we are going to slim this down to some where around 2/3s its size to clear the boot bezel and remove any other part that doesn't really need to be there.


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And that includes the sides...

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...and redoing this to where its not clamping and pinching the cable but close to the diameter of the cable.

On a bonus note, I found similar hardware that comes with the kit that secures the arm to the stick but it's +1 up from the size. I wanted the bolt/shoulder section shorter to comp for the materiel I want removed and this was the closest they had

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Obviously the holes need to be bored out on the arm and the stick and if dimensionaly everything works out I'll sink the head in the arm as well.

Only other concern is the sunk in holes spacing my over lap but I don't see that being an issue.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bored holes with a drill bit in both the stick and arm and tried to do sunken thing that didn't work out....on the larger new bolt I used the white seal tape thing, which name I have obviously forgotten, to act as a buffer/lubricant/spacer but it doesn't need it. "Felt" better not properly installed compared to the smaller bolt.

Wood Tool Metalworking hand tool Hand tool Knife
 
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