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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I got the Pathfinder back together and it does run good except when doing a fast acceleration. The engine balks really bad like it is about to die. but when I ease up on the gas it goes back to running good. When in Neutral I can increase the rpms as far as I want to but I can hit the gas fast or it will balk until I ease off.

Question, on the power valve actuator, is that actuator supposed to work easily by hand? I have to use a screw driver and pry it to work and then it sticks where ever I leave it, it does not close or open by itself. What could I have done to it when installing the intake to make it so hard to move it.

I did back all the small screws out and put loctite on them just for peace of mind. I changed out all of the small vacuum hoses and thought I may have them wrong but only found two in the wrong place. It didn't change anything though. Any suggestions? Does that actuator supposed to move easily or stiff?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Does any one know of a good forum for Pathfinders. I have found a few but there isn't much traffic on any of them. I need to find out how the power valve works on the 2003 3.5 engine. If I can find out how it works, maybe I can figure out why it isn't working. It worked before I put the seals on the valve covers but it don't now. I would appreciate any help.
 

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There is or was a delete for the valve IIRC, it wasn't vehicle specific but was advertised for the Altima/Maxima IIRC...

I think it does similar to the butterfly valve actuator on the 1st gen with vacuum and a signal from the ECM at a specific RPM.

You can do the same relearn process on that motor/vehicle as you do with your Sentra with out a Consult II/III since I might be compensating for the "extra" unmetered air.
 

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Ill try and check it out tomorrow. No codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Cricki, I wish I knew 1/4 as much as you do about Nissans, I don't have a clue what you just said. lol As far as what rpm the engine kicks out I just went out and gave it a try. I can sit in neutral and rev the engine slowly as high as I want to under normal acceleration, but if I try to punch it a little it will cut out no matter what rpm it is in at the time. I tried it at 1000 rpm, the 2000 etc up to 6000 rpm it does it no matter what the rpm is.

The one I am talking about not working, as far as I know, is the shiny one that is by the oil filler tube in the photo below. That rod does not move easily, I had to use a screw driver to pry it open. I can't say if it works or not when it is running because I don't have any one to rev the engine as I watch it.
Auto part Engine Motor vehicle Vehicle Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I found out what my problem is, the butterflies are sticking. I took the arm off the actuator and it moves freely like it is supposed to. The problem is the power valve is sticking. I took the top of the intake back off and sprayed the shaft with PB Blaster and worked the butterflies by hand back and forth until they freed up some. I put it all back together and it worked great. We took the truck for a spin and in about 6 miles it started loosing power big time. We limped on back home and I checked and the power valve is sticking open again.

Looks like I will need to take it back apart and take the shaft out and do a really good cleaning and get the power valve working right. When I cleaned it up, I used the stuff that is used to clean the MAF. Bad move as it cleaned all the lubricant off the shaft. Well anyway, I know what is wrong and what has to be done. Always something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I went out to take the top half of the intake off and decided to check the power valve again before tearing into it.To my surprise the butterflies opened easily. I worked them several times and decided to go for a drive to see if they would stick again. We made a pretty good trip and they never stuck again. I hope they never do. I can't figure out why they stuck other than cleaning them with MAF cleaner. Maybe the Deep Creep Penetrating oil soaked in and is working now.
 

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I just finished rebuilding my 2008 SE R Spec V engine. As it turned out it was an Altima engine with all kind of parts used before I got the car, what a mess. Anyway, it is running smooth as silk, thanks to some of the fellows here, with all their vast knowledge. I learned an awful lot about Nissans.

Where I am right now I am sure I will revisit the engine in my SE R Spec V. The reason is the spark plug tube seals. These seals on none of the Nissans are replaceable as far as I know. They sure aren't replaceable on the Altima, SE R Spec V or the Pathfinder 3.5 Nissan engine.

I have done some research and found there is a way to replace the seals, how well it will hold up, I don't know. That is why I am asking the fellows here who may have tried this. I do know just silicone on the tube seals will not work for long, as our daughter has been down that road. I wound up replacing her engine because of the tube seals leaked oil and the pre-cat situation took her engine down the drain.

The oil fouling the plugs caused raw gas through the already failing catalytic converters and there she went.

I am having the same problem with the tube oil seals leaking on my 2003 Pathfinder 3.5 engine. I caught it just before it started to foul a plug so I really lucked out there. The catalytic converters are new and I sure don't want to replace them.

When I rebuilt the engine in my SE R Spec V, I didn't replace the valve cover and now I am concerned I may have a leak down the road some time.

I have watched a video where a fellow cut the old tube seals out of the valve cover and used seals from a 2010 Honda Civic that fit perfect in the hole, after the old seal is removed. He used a sealer and said it worked for him. I don't know if this forum will allow a member to post a video or not so I won't until I know for sure. If it is allowed, I will post the video so you can see how he did it.

Has anyone else tried this or have another way to keep from buying the high dollar valve covers. I don't trust the cheaper ones and the high dollar ones are really high dollar something like $200 and up.
Even though it is two years after you posted this, I will tell you that it is done over here in Peru, they use same type of seal that fits in a Nissan but with a type of epoxy, they mix those two materials and form a type of soldering, they did it to my friends car about 2 years ago and it is still working!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
It has been right at two years and all is still well, no leaks at all. I just yesterday got a code for the first time since doing the work, but the code is a P0171 which I really hope is a intake or vacuum leak instead of the injectors. CrickiKaze I hope you are feeling much better now days.
 
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