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Discussion Starter #1
Sentra Pic3.jpg

took it to here
IMG_20150916_141723224.jpg

to have this
Sentra engine bay.jpg

Sentra on lift.jpg

turned into this
sentra engine bay turbo.jpg

Sentra pod cluster.jpg


Stock motor 173,00. JWT BSR.
2JR Turbo kit, Turbonetics wastegate, Tial BOV, 2JR ball bearing turbo with blanket and wrap.
2JR hi power intake manifold
800cc Bosch injectors
2JR 3 port oil catch can
2JR 255 fuel pump
NGK 1 step colder iridiums
Updated cam and crank sensors.
PLX wideband
Catless 2.5 Magnaflow exhaust
2JR Solid Delrin motor mounts
Nismo coil overs
2JR rear sway
2JR 10mm ALK
2JR Cross member bushings.
Mishimito aluminum fan shroud.
Mishimito coldr thermostats
2JR crank pulley, and power steering pully
2JR alternator bracket.
2JR hose kit gun metal
2JR radiator cap.
2JR short shifter w/turcite
ClutchMaster 14lb flywheel
Spec D twin halo headlights
Ruff 935 rims 17x17.5
 

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Congrats,
2JR did a great job, looks like your going to have a very fun DD.
Really goes to show that even a high mileage QR can been safely boosted. I'm planning on doing something very similar to this, my engine has 80K miles and I've been buying all the parts.

Where's the dyno sheet?
Also if you can post some videos,
I'd love to see how this drives!
 

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Seen this car when I dropped off mine, its in really great shape. Joe told me that he could turbo my original motor (123K) but I didnt feel comfortable with it. Seen this dyno sheet as well, Joe tuned it to ~250 hp across almost all of the RPM range!
 

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Seen this car when I dropped off mine, its in really great shape. Joe told me that he could turbo my original motor (123K) but I didnt feel comfortable with it. Seen this dyno sheet as well, Joe tuned it to ~250 hp across almost all of the RPM range!
this is the kind of tune i was speaking of

makes the car feel strong in any gear
 

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SO....it's tuned to 250 whp? At what PSI? Just wanted to know, since mine is on stock internals ws well, and Joe was telling that I have to only worry about the WTQ on the stock block, not the PSI level (mine is as 11 psi for 280 whp/302wtq)
 

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SO....it's tuned to 250 whp? At what PSI? Just wanted to know, since mine is on stock internals ws well, and Joe was telling that I have to only worry about the WTQ on the stock block, not the PSI level (mine is as 11 psi for 280 whp/302wtq)
Ask @MisterNuts about that. He pushed 14psi up top with his SC days on a stock block. It's instant TQ that bends things. Less stress = longevity.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
at this power level and boost - it is safe, reliable, and 0 lag. Exactly what i was going after.
Joe said the wheel torque is a limiting factor but also the stress of turbo lag. The sudden surge of power stresses the internals a lot.
 

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at this power level and boost - it is safe, reliable, and 0 lag. Exactly what i was going after.
Joe said the wheel torque is a limiting factor but also the stress of turbo lag. The sudden surge of power stresses the internals a lot.
That is very true. After he tuned it, it felt more linear. How is your oil in your dipstick?
 

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Nice work man. It's good to see Joe putting in good work too.
 

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oil in dip stick is full...should I be looking for something there?
If you have the OE one, they are plastic...they WILL break off over time, so just keep an eye there. Way to fix it...is essentially find a billet handle to replace it with...something I've been trying to do....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
was just talking to my master tech here at Toyota (he used to work at Nissan) and he said those dip stick handles always break. they are a real pain to get the metal stick out too. He said we can cut the plastic handle off and crimp a metal extension handle onto the end...so its all metal and extends above the oil feed line to get at it easier....this sounds like a good part Joe might want to manufacture.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok here is an update. Car is freaking fantastic as a daily driver. Nice manners, power in every gear at any rpm...not racing crazy power, but nice streetable pass the car in front of me in 3 seconds power. It is great.

However after 2 days I noticed a thin sheen of oil on the valve cover around the oil fill neck. A little research revealed the ebay oil cap as the culprit. No matter how tight I screwed it on - even with a wrench a little oil squeezed out. So....I bought some permatex black gasket maker to create a larger gasket on the oil cap. Let it sit over night and put some paper on top of the goop to prevent it from sticking to the cover. That solved the oil leak. The oil dip stick is holding up perfectly so far. Gas mileage went way up to 34 mpg.

But mucking around in the engine bay I noticed something else. The oil return line wrapped in red heat tape is laying against the exhaust down pipe. They are touching.

The red tape has turned color - somewhat white - where the pipe and the hose touch. Is this a concern / Should I try to route the hose so there is some room between the two? Just wondering if anyone else has seen this issue on these builds.

Any input would be appreciated.
 

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please separate
or wrap hose in heat [lava] wrap


doesn't have to be a great distance just not touching

things seem to move around
even with solid mounts the engine moves a bit
on hard acceleration

i check the turbo bolts and the proximity of hoses weekly
and daily check fluid levels

imo
 
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