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So the purpose of my build was to make something very nice but not dedicate boatloads of cash and time. I know many others want this as well so I decided to sit down and do a write/ history of the Boosted Build. I purchased it in 2004 with 8 miles on it. I am the only driver. I took a long time to break the engine in...about 1 year. The car has been redlined 4 times in its life. I took her to 2J 2 years ago at 173,000 miles to go boost. Now I will attempt to point out the areas of persistent concern that may help other doing the same build/ ride. The ride is daily driver to work and back 60 miles a day. It is never down except on my days off. I do most of my own repairs. Please read my sig for my most important modifications.
Problem to watch for.

1) The Dipstick. I have been through a dozen. Read the metal handle mod written by shanover. The plastic one lives a month to 2 months and will disintegrate at some point. Also you can bend the tube toward the radiator but it makes taking the radiator out nearly impossible. If you even need to bring it to a shop...they are not going to be as nice to your car as you think. Thats a warning. Every time I have had someone else do work on it I have to jack the car up and go over every single hose and where it is touching etc.

2) Oil leaks. I have had no oil leaks for over a month. I found for my metal dipstick mod there was a few microns of space on the dipstick o-ring and some spittle of oil would trickle its way down to the garage floor. I make my own o-ring for the dipstick which fits very snug and takes a little effort to pull the stick. It works perfectly ...Took me a while to locate that one but the car has zero oil leaks for the first time since going boosted and its been that way long enough for me to declare the problem is solved. Other areas oil has leaked...Valve cover. You must use an OEM valve cover. Aftermarket ones will leak oil into the spark plug tubes. Cam and crank sensor o-rings. Dip stick top. Oil drain line from turbo. Back of the block where the oil sending unit is located.

3) Oil drain line. This line is a 10n gravity fed drain for the turbo. The line should be as straight down as possible without any flat spots or kinks. The center housing of the turbo should be perfectly vertical...in a perfect world. This is not possible with our top mounted turbo so you may clock the center up to 5*. But the more vertical the better - this is prevent a smoking turbo. The line comes across the face of the downpipe and must handle extreme heat. I use heat resistant rubber with fire wrap covering and additionally place a folded up piece of exhaust wrap between the hose and the down pipe.

4)Vacuum leak(s). The primary cause for a vacuum leak that causes a hanging idle is the silicone hose connection to the turbo. This coupler will come loose ever so slightly after a few boost runs. You will not find the leak spraying with brake clean because the seal is in tact at idle. Only when driving and coming down from boost levels the idle will hang. The solution is to use a 4-ply silicone hose. I take the entire cold side turbo off with the hose remaining attached to the inter cooler pipe then disconnect the inter-cooler pipe from underneath the car. Then I take off the upper radiator hose for clearance (broke the compressor turbo wheel twice- lesson learned). Fish the entire thing out as one piece - it goes back in the same way. Once you have the cold side turbo and pipe the hose that connects the two must be put on perfectly. (this vacuum leak it one I battle long and hard). You must take note of how the water pipe runs right in the location where the t-bolt clamps will poke out. I have it to where 1 clamp above and 1 below the water pipe. The turbo and pipe should be a close as possible. The hose must be clamp flush. Take care when tightening the clamp as they have a tendency to twist and bind a little. You do not want the clamp to tighten where there is even a slight twist...perfectly parallel ...then use some thread locker at the base (where the nut will end up after tightening). I also use a jam nut on the backside of the original.
The other primary vacuum leak source is the clamp before the MAF pip. I use thread locker and a jam nut there also.

5) Wastegate bolts. They have a tendency to fall out. Check after 2 weeks. You must remove a lot of stuff to check them but believe me they must be checked. I recommend using nordlocks on all fastener associated with the turbo plumbing. I do not recommend Turbonetics evolution wastegate. It failed me within a year. Tial has held up spectacularly.

6) I am running a 0.03 restrictor on a Garrett T304 journal bearing 9lbs of boost. Penzoil Ultimate 5w30. Just took the turbo apart and had it rechecked...perfect.

Vehicle is currently at 195,000 miles on completely bone stock engine. Thats 22k on boost. So folks it can be done and it doesnt take your life savings nor will the car blow up...as long as are responsible.

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Discussion Starter #3
appreciate your feedback yogi.
 

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Did you find the air straightener was necessary or beneficial with that MAF pipe? Or did you just do it to be on the safe side?

I have that pipe. Not in use yet. Plenty of time to order some honeycomb if I need to.
 

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yes it works well. But remember when Joe tuned her she had the original stock MAF pipe and I bought the 3" metal treadstone as a replacement (due to over tightening I bent the plastic on the stock). So I do not know the reason it helped but it works freakin perfectly now....no leaks, no idle issues, no problems what so ever = for a little while now. THE CONSTANT MAINTENANCE IS OVER!!!! (knock on wood)
 

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a daily turbo spec can easily be done the problem is too many people want to set it and forget it and then beat the hell out of it every drive. I have been boosted 10 years and 1 month and 60k. It was a daily for at least 7 of those years. I have had some minor issues, most due to myself. Nothing that kept the car down long enough to miss work. I can relate to the dipstick oil leak. I moved my dipstick and dislodged the oring where it sits in the oil pan, I chased that leak for weeks. I kept thinking it was my drain return or the pan gasket
 

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Discussion Starter #9
or they keep chasing the more power game. An endless wallet emptying journey.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
a good tune is essential...I highly recommend Joe at 2J Racing
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so during my hurricane day off I decided to put the miscellaneous DEA heat sheathing wrap to good use. I fabricated an alternator heat shield out of the aluminumized sheathing and used the heat insulated tubing for the AC line. Also I repainted the valve cover... such a nice day for no oil leaks, no boost leaks, no idle issues, no ovrerheating, no nutin!

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Vehicle is currently at 195,000 miles on completely bone stock engine. Thats 22k on boost. So folks it can be done and it doesnt take your life savings nor will the car blow up...as long as are responsible.
What's your current total$?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well...if steve and yogi spill the beans on theirs then ill reveal mine :D

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btw i took off that aluminum peice - didnt help any and I didnt like the extra clutter in the engine bay.
 

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well...if steve and yogi spill the beans on theirs then ill reveal mine :D

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btw i took off that aluminum peice - didnt help any and I didnt like the extra clutter in the engine bay.
keep in mind tho, that I had to have my block redone, with sleeves, and that cost more than twice as much as having the sleeves done on the original build. so my 'build' is somewhat inflated over what it could have been had I opted for them the first time, and I had to replace a head as well when my radiator failed and it warped. I have more money into a $4000 car than many others have, lol
 

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Just wondering from saying it won't take your life savings.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
with what he is showing turboing a stock qr can be done and hold. as for the not breaking the life savings, that can be done to if done right.

if ur able to do work urself and find all the parts cheap, sometimes buying a brand new kit like treadstone can be breaking the life savings for some. but all in all can be done.

when u get to where shanover is that is a different story, his is more for the person who wants to abuse there car on the daily and that doesnt come cheap.

when it comes to the stock qr it can take the beating of boost, BUT if u leave the engine stock i dont see it holding up super long if u like to get after it everytime u drive the car.
 
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