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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just some updates with pics. questions are welcome I share info on my parts and build 馃榾.. went to the dyno couple years back. made 340whp 330tq on 12 psi 93 pump gas ..goals next month 20psi e85 rolling antilag hoping to be in the 500 club. has anyone ever done a rouge crankshaft in a b15 turbo build before ?
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just because it can see 27psi, doesn't mean its sealed. The plastic could be separating enough for small boost leaks to occur, which short term is not an issue, but if the conditions outside the car change enough, it is more than enough to put a tune out of wack and cause major issues.

I've run 30psi through an OEM MR16DDT intake manifold (also plastic). Did it hold up? Yea. Would I let anyone drive around like that if they didn't understand the risks? hell no. Uprev blew the threaded inserts right out of a nissan intake manifold in ~2013 by running 32psi through it.

Take into consideration how many heat cycles the plastic has seen, and how plastics get brittle with age, and eventually your gunna have a bad day XD

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I hear ya, personally wouldn't run 27 psi on 8740 arp studs anyways. unless I was running l19 studs you won't see anything over 24 psi without having coolant issues pushing through the head. It alot comes from turbo size too bigger turbo more air velocity. Example. Gt28 30psi isnt the same flow as a 6266 would be. If my tuner says 20psi is max, I trust him over joe anyday. hes tuned my car which is currently on 12 psi on 93 and the man knows his stuff worldwide tuner Martin from rs-enthalpy
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Your correct about flow, but on the EXHAUST side. PSI is PSI. Your CFM of the turbo determines what you can push into the engine, yes, and how efficient you can maintain a pressure. But pressure is pressure. 28 psi is 28 psi is 28 psi weather the turbo is off a fork lift, a semi, or a sentra. The difference is how much heat and flow is behind that pressure, which is where power comes from with a larger compressor wheel. Less heat, more flow. So in regard to the intake manifold, cfm wont kill the manifold, it is just pressure. The added heat of a smaller turbo obviously does not help.

Say your blowing through a straw into a pressure gauge with a balloon on the end. your trying to pop the balloon. With a small straw, you have to push the air a lot harder to build the pressure to pop the balloon. With a larger straw, you do not have to push as hard, and the balloon pops sooner. It took X PSI to pop the balloons in both cases, or really X volume, one way was just more efficient than the other.

As for the head stud thing; I ran 24 psi on my qr with normal arp studs without issue. On the jukes I run normal ARP studs well north of 28psi. Shit, the 400 whp 28psi juke I built was on OEM Nissan Head Bolts. Same diameter as the qr ones (i had not sorted out what studs from arp fit at the time and said fuck it)
Fair enough. Pete from v1r ran 24 psi and saw coolant issues on his 700+qr he holds the fastest 1/4qr in a b13 in the 9s i think he would know what psi is safe with which arp stud. Mind you this is strictly track car 8500rpm at 160mph in 4th gear
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yeah man very very nice car. Dont be afraid to take a video.

I also was concerned about the manifold. I think about that often. Ill probly only see ~20psi on high boost but if its documented to hold up beyond that, Ill try not to worry about it. Thanks for sharing.
Appreciate it man! my car/build is all over my Instagram 馃憠staticdrivenspecv馃憟 videos too need to get a more in depth video made sometime in the future but first its dyno time 馃檪
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Sweet. I'm annoyed with this fuel pump project I'm trying to figure out lol. Just trying to hardwire the pump and bypass the oem relay so I have constant charging/ battery voltage to the pump I have a 30a 12v relay installed in the trunk (battery is In the trunk) but I lost where to go from here I have one pin going to the battery with a inline fuse one pin going to the chassis ground one on going to the fuel pump power and not sure where the other goes ..another write up on this site says connects to the fuel pump connector side whatever the hell that means ...I was experimenting with priming the motor by unplugging certain wires to see what functions what and the only wire the pump seems to be worried about is the black/yellow wire which is power..why do we even have 5 wires then ? Makes no sense if I de pin the black/white green and green/orange wires together leaving the black/yellow and the black it still primes if I remove the oem relay nothing happens so something is still wrong and I'm sure it's this last pin for the 30a relay just not sure what wire I need to tap into now
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Yeah man very very nice car. Dont be afraid to take a video.

I also was concerned about the manifold. I think about that often. Ill probly only see ~20psi on high boost but if its documented to hold up beyond that, Ill try not to worry about it. Thanks for sharing.
Made some videos on the YouTube .. nothing special no long pulls until the tune gets adjusted but nissan tech on YouTube is my channel
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