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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)


Parts list updated 5/14/20



I finally get a chance to shit away time and money on a car in my life. My goal for this project for now is 300-400whp @14-20 psi, respective to the various tunes. Similar to those who know @yogi b / shanover’s set up. The goal of this is straight to the point going to be a bad ass fully built B15 Sentra from the Northern VA area. Im looking to unlock the full adjustability whenever I want with the heavy thrill that the gas pedal leaves behind, from the tunes, to the chassis. I want a universal car that can raise eyebrows at the dragstrip, between cones in a parking lot, or the ability to be quick on a road course. Im am hunting the long term durability aspect as well. Hard to say that I know but dedication to the time and effort I believe always pays off. From start to finish I have planned this on being a 3 year projected timeline, maybe realistically closer to 4 or even 5. Slow project indeed. I want to try and put as much thought into this because it needs to be built right the first time. Unfortunately it will not mean its going to be cheap or easy. But Ive said fuck it, why not have fun with it while I can. Learn something new, try something hard. Ah, this is the part where the dream comes true..

Motor Parts Acquired
QR25 Darton sleeved block at stock 89.50mm bore with a proud 0.002” overlap
Wiseco forged 8.55:1 low compression turbo pistons
WPC treated wrist pins
WPC treated ACL race rod bearings
WPC treated thrust bearings
2J H-beams
2J Knife edged B16 crank
BSR kit
ARP head and main studs
Nissan all new gaskets and seals
Nissan timing cover with oil pump
Nissan water pump and hard pipes
Cryo-treated cylinder head
Cryo-treated timing chain
2J Street V2 cams
2J adjustable exhaust cam sprocket
2J valve springs
2J '07 Sentra plenum
Nissan intake cam phaser
Nissan all new valves oem sized
Nissan cam buckets
5-angle valve job
Cometic Head gasket
Nissan all new valve train seals, guides, and hardware, etc.
Nissan valve cover
2J titanium valve cover bolts
2J exhaust studs and nuts
ATi Damper
Mishimoto sandwich plate
Superpro crossmember mounts

2J 14 lb steel flywheel
2J Stage 3 clutch
2J 3" cat'd midpipe with E-cutout
Stromung 3" catback exhaust w/o resonator
Mishimoto radiator
Mishomoto twin fans and shroud
Nissan thermostats, waterpump
Nissan lower oil pan

Turbo Parts Aquired
Garrett GTX3076R Gen 2 Turbocharger
-58 Trim
-.60 A/R
-.82 A/R turbine
-Vband 3" outlet
-Ceramic coated turbine
2J custom 3" coated downpipe
Treadstone stainless steel log manifold
Treadstone wrinkle black intercooler pipes
Treadstone TR8 Intercooler and brackets
Tial 38mm MVS Wastegate and springs
Tial 50mm Q BOV
255lph Fuel pump (unknown brand)
Five-O 1200cc injectors
Apexi AVC-R Electronic boost controller

Miscellaneous Turbo Parts
Catch can
Sharkey top bin 3 gauge pod

Transmission
BG Synchroshift 2
Possibly the Maxima diff or just rebuilt trans in time. But then Im thinking if its open, it will be cryo treated too. Planning stock 04 trans and axles for now.

Parts and Processes Needed
Painted valve cover and final engine cosmetics
Vacuum block
All hoses and fittings
All Gauges
Wideband
Battery relocation
Oem Carbon fiber hood
Wider front wheels
Uprev base tune (until dyno)


Body Shop
-Fully gutted interior
-Fully painted inside and out (color tbd)
-Fix rust spots and tap all bolt holes
-Soundproofing interior
Cleaned and installed full interior
Engine swap


Contemplating another electronic boost controller
Unsure of current main bearings. Minor double checking needed.
Turbo blanket on coated turbine?

Time and money



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In Summer 2015 I picked up a spare block from a JDM shop nearby. Bastards didn’t include the ac compressor or the alternator though, but was a good block. It sat on my porch for a few days as I partially disassembled it to make easier to bring inside.

20150712_141819_resized_1.jpg

After I had help bring it in, disassembly happened. Inside I set it on a stand downstairs and drained all the fluids. It was then safe enough to carry upstairs where it will stay in my spare bedroom. Screw you guys with a garage.

A bit of old burnt oil but it looked pretty good internally. The only nasty part were the piston tops

20150712_145152_resized_1.jpg

20150714_160653_resized_1.jpg

20150714_161121_resized_1.jpg

20160228_105219_resized.jpg

There was a bit of a... 'mishap'.. downstairs. Upstairs I laid down a large sheet of plastic and a large tarp under the stand to avoid any spillage onto the carpet.

After breaking down everything, it was sent out to get sleeved and fully cleaned!

sleeves shipping.jpg

After, but still wrapped to prevent moisture and dust until full assembly. Believe me I wanted to open it so bad

sleeves installed.jpg

WPC treated parts. Should of taken a before pic. Its not fuzzy from the pic, thats how it looks. The dimples are so small its really hard for me to even start seeing them. Awesome! Thrust bearing not pictured. I was also thinking about WPC treating my cam buckets but havent done it.

20160703_180228_resized.jpg

20160703_180829_resized.jpg


Im open to all options, opinions, and discussions. Thanks for looking. Much much more to come!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did have a question about head gaskets tho. I hear mixed results from Cometic. I really want an Ajusa gasket but cant ever find the specs on them Is it a one size fits all deal. Also should I be looking for an '07 Ajusa headgasket?
 

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I ran the ajusa headgasket with no problems and mine was .20 over. I also got mine before Joe was selling the other gaskets. But I did read the same about them u have
 

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whoopee i love new builds
this, i'm telling you, will be a blast

i would drive constantly at the 360whp level, just for the low end tq alone
if the block would take it

be aware, driven hoonagan style
i have been towed in 6 or 7 times in about a year and a half
so reliability suffers

it takes a lot of discipline to stay home on the farm
[300hp]
once you have seen Paris
[400+hp]
I finally get a chance to shit away time and money on a car in my life. My goal for this project for now is 350-400hp of usable power @14-16 psi, along to other tunes using lower 300hp maps. Similar to those who know @yogi b’s set up. That E85 though is sure impressive too. It’s just going to be a bad ass fully built B15 Sentra in Northern VA roaming the roads. All I want is full adjustability whenever I want with the heavy thrill that the gas pedal leaves behind. Im also considering the long term durability and/or any desire for 650whp in the further future. From start to finish I have planned this on being a 3 year projected timeline, maybe a few months more. I want to try and put as much thought into this because it needs to be built right the first time. Unfortunately it will not mean its going to be cheap. But fuck it, why not have fun with it while I can. Ah, this is the part where the dream comes true.

Motor Parts Acquired
QR25 Darton sleeved block at stock 89.0mm bore with 0.002” overlap BLESS you, really needed imo
Wiseco forged 8.55:1 low compression turbo pistons[[try a higher cr, i'm at 9cr, for street no boost tq]
2J H-beams
WPC treated wrist pins
WPC treated ACL main and crank bearings
WPC treated thrust bearings
Knife edged and balanced B16 crank nay i say full balanced crank is the way
BSR kit
ARP head and main studs
Nissan new timing chain
Nissan all new gaskets and seals
Nissan timing cover with oil pump
Stock head shell for now
2J adjustable exhaust cam sprocket
2J valve springs
2J plenum
Nissan all new valves
Nissan all new valvetrain seals and hardware

add 5 angel valve job and perhaps comtec custom head gasket, if the head needs to be trued up

Motor Parts Needed
Cryogenically treat timing cahin for sure, and maybe other small parts
if affordable crank and rods as well
Likely future head work and modifications
Head gasket
C1 cams [there are real turbo cams now ask]
Waterpump, thermostat(s), and gaskets
Spark plugs[ i'm using ngk iridiums, and brisk sliver racing plugs]
Painted valve cover and other cosmetics [drill out valve cover add 6 port catch can, with drain back into oil pan]
ATI Damper
Stage 3 clutch and 9lb flywheel[twin disk or stage 4 pressure plate and ether stage 3 disk for street, or 4 puck semi metallic for track]
Assembly

Turbo Parts Aquired
Sharkey top bin guage pod
None else lol

Turbo Parts Needed
All

use the highest possible drain back from the turbo
to the upper pan
note hose location
DSCN1495 by Barry, on Flickr

Transmission
No ideas now. Possibly the Maxima diff. But then Im thinking if its open, it will be cryo treated. Planning stock 04 trans and axles for now.

i'm using an 03 tranny?, and i would suggest the race axles from 2jr
i already snapped one [oem too]

all suggestions are in my opinion and just based on my individual experience


At this time the motor work is primary focus. Turbo parts will be posted as they are purchased. For now the turbo Im leaning towards is a Garrett GTX3067R. Im unsure of turbine housing size. I still have a billion questions and things to search but when the time come, all thing will be considered. I would appreciate any recommendations or things to look out for!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In Summer 2015 I picked up a spare block from a JDM shop nearby. Bastards didn’t include the ac compressor or the alternator though, but was a good block. It sat on my porch for a few days as I partially disassembled it to make easier to bring inside.

View attachment 89537

After I had help bring it in, disassembly happened. Inside I set it on a stand downstairs and drained all the fluids. It was then safe enough to carry upstairs where it will stay in my spare bedroom. Screw you guys with a garage haha.

A bit of old burnt oil but it looked pretty good internally. The only nasty part were the piston tops

View attachment 89545

View attachment 89553

View attachment 89561

View attachment 89569

There was a bit of a... 'mishap'.. downstairs. Upstairs I laid down a large sheet of plastic and a large tarp under the stand to avoid any spillage onto the carpet.

After breaking down everything, it was sent out to get sleeved and fully cleaned!

View attachment 89577

After, but still wrapped to prevent moisture and dust until full assembly. Believe me I wanted to open it so bad

View attachment 89593

WPC treated parts. Should of taken a before pic. Its not fuzzy from the pic, thats how it looks. The dimples are so small its really hard for me to even start seeing them. Awesome! Thrust bearing not pictured. I was also thinking about WPC treating my cam buckets but havent done it yet.

View attachment 89601

View attachment 89609

As of now this is how it sits. I am now in the process of cryo treating the chain. Fuck a stretched chain! What else could I treat thats needed? The deal is up to 28 pounds is $100 to treat so I have plenty room to spare for only having a 5 lb chain. Big parts are itemized. Like the crank is $130. They can even do blocks.


Im open to all options, opinions, and discussions. Thanks for looking. Much much more to come!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It certainly sounds like a blast! Over the past year or 2 of reading all these builds and badass setups and the problems encountered, its my turn dammit. But, with me Im not looking to floor it at every red light. It wont be tracked regularly or seeing 7k often enough to wonder what pain its feeling. I say that of course but I tend to be a responsible individual, relatively speaking. Checking nuts and bolts, and fluids regularly is important too. Its part of the fun I know. I totally understand and will compensate for replacement parts as long as there are no holes in the block, but I dont think that will happen :)

As an update Im going to cryo treat the chain and the oil pump. Seriously considering the head as well now because Im thinking it will prevent warpage but Ill have to see how much it is. Any other small parts Im not thinking of that break or deform?
 

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It certainly sounds like a blast! Over the past year or 2 of reading all these builds and badass setups and the problems encountered, its my turn dammit. But, with me Im not looking to floor it at every red light. It wont be tracked regularly or seeing 7k often enough to wonder what pain its feeling. I say that of course but I tend to be a responsible individual, relatively speaking. Checking nuts and bolts, and fluids regularly is important too. Its part of the fun I know. I totally understand and will compensate for replacement parts as long as there are no holes in the block, but I dont think that will happen :)

As an update Im going to cryo treat the chain and the oil pump. Seriously considering the head as well now because Im thinking it will prevent warpage but Ill have to see how much it is. Any other small parts Im not thinking of that break or deform?
If you get the head, or deck resurfaced, you may need to compensate for that with a thicker cometic gasket, if no decking or head shaving, you will be fine. My headgasket didnt fail, my block did, but you are going sleeves, so you will be good there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I havent checked the head yet but will do that when I get the block assembled. Im thinking I would cryo the head then flatten it later if needed. I wouldnt mill any off purposely tho. The blocks deck is already set too. Im actually not sure how much they took off the block, if any. I just know its a 0.002" sleeve overlap.

But Im supposed to use a .051 I think but cant find any specs on Ajusa.
 

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when you say 'sleeve overlap', what exactly are you referencing? I know the sleeves give you a couple thousandths of stepped deck, to better seal on the headgasket, meaning the sleeves are .002 higher than the engine deck height.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Exactly. The sleeves are set to 0.002" higher than the deck of the block in hopes for a better seal. I thought 0.005" was too much and so did the machinist. You can just barely feel the difference but its there.

Dumb question but is the perk of a composite Ajusa gasket over an MLS one is that its one size fits all, besides cylinder bores diameter?
 

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ok, that makes more sense, I was wondering. its almost like on the old V8's when we would O-Ring the bores for a better seal when you put a blower on the motor. I would agree that .005 would be pretty extreme, might not get the rest of the head to seal against the deck
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I did initially wanted a 9.5:1 compression ratio forged piston but Wiseco only had a low 8.55:1 or 10.5:1 ratio or whatever it was. No ~9.5:1 so I just went with the turbo piston. Make all the power from the turbo and still has monster tq from the 2.5 liter so its no big compromise imo.
 

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I havent checked the head yet but will do that when I get the block assembled. Im thinking I would cryo the head then flatten it later if needed. I wouldnt mill any off purposely tho. The blocks deck is already set too. Im actually not sure how much they took off the block, if any. I just know its a 0.002" sleeve overlap.

But Im supposed to use a .051 I think but cant find any specs on Ajusa.
the cam chain distance is crucial

i milled the head enough to see a .5 raise in cr
thru two builds now, this has been a constant problem

chain tensioners go frequently, lots of cam chain noise on start up
early cam chain failure
[last one went less than 7000 miles

my recent rebuild,
was due to the cam chain stretching

the only thing i could do

ditch the head
start over

use a comtec head gasket custom made to fit your particular engine
and get the cam chain distance exactly right

this is somewhat tedious
as the head must be torqued down to measure the correct distance
then done again

so the head is installed twice and the head gasket essentially is torqued down twice

results now
no cam chain noise
and hopefully longer chain life

btw,
cold treating the chain may be a good safeguard
What by Barry, on Flickr
 

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I did initially wanted a 9.5:1 compression ratio forged piston but Wiseco only had a low 8.55:1 or 10.5:1 ratio or whatever it was. No ~9.5:1 so I just went with the turbo piston. Make all the power from the turbo and still has monster tq from the 2.5 liter so its no big compromise imo.
Should've gone with the 10.5. With e85 it wouldn't be a problem..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
There is like no E85 around here though. Only in DC which would be like 30 minute drive for me.
 

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For some reason I don't think e85 and Uprev is that great an idea unless you are Only Ever Gonna Run e85. And really just in general with Uprev unless you have a good source for E85 that actually is e85 365 days a year.

To much room for error and kaboom.


We need a more advanced flex fuel system for it to truly be safe

IN MY OPINION (which ain't worth much probably lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I mean I would be willing to try an E85 mix if it was at all possible to have an E85 only tune. I can make that drive to DC for a fun tank of gas by measuring the mix on an empty tank. I just dont want to have to rely on E85.

I dont know tho I havent looked into it too much
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nah it will be primarily 93 octane. But thats what Im saying if I can have a seperate high boost race tune with E85 or race gas mix, I most certainly will.
 
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