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If your clearance is too tight on the mains you don't remove material from the crank you should always remove it from the journal on the block ..my acl were calico coated and everyhting was tight at .1 now I'm at .23-.25 and thrustbearingwas too tight with the knife edged crank first dropped In... wouldn't crank
 

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Long story short listening to your story about your machinist I feel bad and I would have ripped my motor out from that shop real quick sounds like he doesn't have a clue what he's doing take it to someone you can trust and won't have to rip the engine back out once you get it in ..damn
 

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I agree with yogi you want it to be done once and done right if not your gonna have bigger problems then your having and it won't be fun or cheap just would hate to see that happen to you man after everything
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Thanks for the input. After some research and talking to others I found that taking 0.001" from polishing is not reliable and will be out of round as was posted above. The right thing to do is find a bearing that fits. I was I guess a bit mislead and confused about what was actually going on. Im never the guy to assume anything first thing but it was looking to me like it was becoming bad. I dont work on internal engines every day so I am a bit unaware of gauging clearances and general rule of thumbs.

Today I called ACL and him and the machinist contacted each other for measurements. It seems like everything is working out ok. They are sending new main bearings that fit. Apparently the ones I got were wrong ?? These will be without the WPC treatment unfortunately. Another thing the 'A' rated bearings that I got are rated for oem force tolerances. The 'H' or 'HX' rated ones are the ones that are meant for racing or high performance rated. Only difference between H and HX is that the HX has extra clearance for oil. Both the ACL representative and the machinist from experience explained this to me separately. I did not know this or the difference between A and H/HX. The ones I got from 2J were A rated. The new main bearings are H rated. The rod bearings are still A rated with the WPC treatment. The machinist was giving me examples from what he has seen that main bearings take much more impact from a turbo than an NA motor, so the rod bearings will be fine. I feel only alittle bit foolish about our conversations about the whole situation but I have to trust his word and go with it and I hope that everything works out finely with these new bearings. I just wish the guy was not so immediately defensive and could talk alittle more civil. But still the 7 month thing is inexcusable...

More updates to come!
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Better get that way too light of a flywheel off for your turbo build and i hope your either using oem or ati damper
Speaking of ATi damper, I got the second half of the bill today as a matter of fact. Its in a box ready to ship. Will be using the 9lb flywheel. No balance shaft.
 
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Better get that way too light of a flywheel off for your turbo build and i hope your either using oem or ati damper
been running the 9 pound flywheel on my car going on 3 years, and 50K miles. If I had it to do over again, I would opt for the heavier flywheel purely for drivability, but the 9 pounder has not failed me at all. and you can ask @yogi b @kjg819, @AMG8191d @Sus Spec @frobbins @ damn near anyone else that has ridden in, or driven my car, it is streetable with a couple exceptions. Mainly, car revs faster!!! also slows down the rpm's faster, especially with the AC on. but its still a very streetable car
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Yup itll take some getting used to for sure. But this is the goal for me. Your car was streetable, but I can see stop and go being a problem. God, around here? Its the whole reason why I got a second car. Its my automatic bitch lol. The Spec is about to be posted up for the winter too.
 

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I got that 9 lb flywheel. Love it. Gotta stay up in the rev's, but thats where i like it. That pedal control though...

And that's on the high compression Turbo build I run.
 

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Yup itll take some getting used to for sure. But this is the goal for me. Your car was streetable, but I can see stop and go being a problem. God, around here? Its the whole reason why I got a second car. Its my automatic bitch lol. The Spec is about to be posted up for the winter too.
This is no lie at all, got stuck in highway construction last year a few times, stop, go fifteen feet, stop again, go ten feet, stop again, etc... as a result, my left leg looks like the hulks, while my right leg looks like Mikes, from Monsters Inc.
 

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Good luck to you I'm glad you figured out what was going on ..really wish 2j stocked the h rated bearings I believe mine were a rated aswell but are all calico coated (same as wpc just better) wish my crank came balanced from 2j aswell but this world we choose to live in is far from perfect
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I think it was advertised as fully balanced.. wasnt it? Especially the kinfe edged. Why would it not be?
 

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as to flywheels i could tell little difference riding in mine or shanovers

compared to the heavy stocker
[5lb difference between alum and steel,
9lb aluminum, 14lb steel, at least 25lb stock]

just for heavy abuse i prefer steel


what i'm saying
it's a moot point

they don't feel much different to me
 

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I got that 9 lb flywheel. Love it. Gotta stay up in the rev's, but thats where i like it. That pedal control though...

And that's on the high compression Turbo build I run.
see
they seem very similar

mine with the 14b flywheel loves to be around 3000rpm

not really happy at anything below 2500-2600 rpm

the fact that it idles well is imo due to smaller injector size than most
at the 350whp level

and my stage 4 pressure plate and 6puck disk were far more problem to me in heavy traffic than the lite flywheels
imo
 

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see
they seem very similar

mine with the 14b flywheel loves to be around 3000rpm

not really happy at anything below 2500-2600 rpm

the fact that it idles well is imo due to smaller injector size than most
at the 350whp level

and my stage 4 pressure plate and 6puck disk were far more problem to me in heavy traffic than the lite flywheels
imo
I agree 3K rpm is the sweet spot for power, mine will calmly drive in traffic in the 2K range tho. When I drove Yogi's he had to remind me a couple times to keep it one gear lower than what I was used to. I never noticed much of a difference in the clutches, I have a stage 3 pressure plate and clutch, or at least not enough difference for me to notice it.

wish we had gotten video of sus spec driving mine the first time, lol
 

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last time Shanover drove the car,
i had retreated from the 6 puck, stage 4 disk, to a stage three street disk , but still using a stage 4 pressure plate

the cams in mine just don't like low rpm
[JWT, C1s]

i was delighted with Shanovers car
very docile and livable behavior, driving to pick up parts
, quiet with no vibes
yet pulls like a locomotive, if you hit the throttle

much better street car than mine
great seats too

need i say A/C and radio

mine is raw compared to this
and 6kg springs vs 12kg

oh, come on, give me a break
lol

seats, rugs, springs
a radio, A/C and power enough to make you sings
it's got all the blings
:47:
 
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