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Yogi is too kind, His car is a lot of fun to drive as well, and once you are into the power band, there is really not much difference in the handling between the two, I feel that I could adjust to driving his within a mile or so, just to feel out the differences in power (not really much), handling (much wider tires, bent rear beam, stiffer springs), and comfort, as he has the stock seats in his. my seats hold you better, true. I would have to put the interior back in along with ac, radio, et al tho!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Keep questioning the C1 cams..`Especially with these v2 street cams.
 

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IMO

on a turbo car they seem a useless expense [C1s, s1s would work better here imo]

the c1's are designed for a hi compression na engine
for high rpm use

too much overlap and duration for a supercharged [turbo] setup

supercharger cams use lower duration and overlap and hi lift

competition cams would make up a set [i asked]
to joe's specs

however, turns out
exhaust cam from b16 spec v is very close

now use the 2jr street intake cam and uprev to fine tune the cams

voila
turbo/SC cams
 

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Keep questioning the C1 cams..`Especially with these v2 street cams.
i'm with you

with uprev you can get them to work and be very streetable
but of little advantage

most turbo setups i have liked, have been hi tq and relatively low rpm motors
[6800 limit on mine, supposedly]

a 7500-8000 rpm drag motor with high boost [24lb] could use them more effeciently


for example
at about 360whp there is a small overlap in power
both shanover [no cams] and mine[ c1's] make the same power

i believe we are at nearly the same boost levels here too

the dyno's look very similar

and as stated at this power level
they pull about the same on the street

what advantage are the expensive cams?

perhaps if mine were sleeved and run to 7500rpm
with 11.5cr pistons,
the added duration might be useful

with the best street motor i have ever had
idles, now runs cool
handles heavy traffic

and on e85/93oct
can run rather well

i ain't about to mess with it

counting up over 3 years,
took 12 dyno runs,
to try out , realize what i really liked, and nail it down

meth is just about keeping it alive longer
motor is good

current tires and chassis setup can't handle what i have.









now,
we have to get the chassis to work with street tires,
the way it did with slicks
 

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IMO

on a turbo car they seem a useless expense [C1s, s1s would work better here imo]
agreed

the c1's are designed for a hi compression na engine
for high rpm use

too much overlap and duration for a supercharged [turbo] setup

supercharger cams use lower duration and overlap and hi lift
They do make special cams for engines specifically designed with turbo in mind, high duration cams will let some of the intake charge push thru the exhaust on valve overlap

competition cams would make up a set [i asked]
to joe's specs

however, turns out
exhaust cam from b16 spec v is very close

now use the 2jr street intake cam and uprev to fine tune the cams

voila
turbo/SC cams
On the note of cams tho, when I last had a tune, Joe informed me that my stock cams were still making power, and could go higher, in my top tune if I had the injectors to handle it. kinda says a lot about stock cams, phasing, and the tune! IMHO, unless you are wringing every last drop of power from the engine, the stock cams will IN GENERAL give you more power than most of our suspension and tires can handle on the street. at 475 crank hp on my car, its definitely a handfull!

remember, its all in the tune
Yogi b, 16psi, 3 tunes, open and closed exhaust
me, 15psi for tune 1 and 2, tune 2 open exhaust, 360 and 375hp respectively. tune 3 20psi, open exhaust, 400 wheel hp
with bigger than 1000cc injectors, I could easily push 5-600 whp according to 2J, maybe more with meth, but thats to me just another thing I would have to keep up with on the car. I am very happily cruising at 360whp, closed exhaust, quietly driving in the suburbs, with more than enough power. IMHO for me, much more power would be a waste.

Dont get me wrong, a 1000hp qr would be a sight to behold, but with the added breakage, and maintenance, not to mention parts replacements due to wear, are not worth it. Look at all of the extreme power builds we have going on here on this site, 600+hp, and how many times do they break stuff getting to that goal.
 

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TBH.....I've never heard anyone mention stock cams holding back their turbo build.


Need more air and fuel, cram more air and fuel in there lol.
 

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Obvious exception is of course desired rpm. Which has been mentioned.


We strain the engines so much already.....I personally wouldn't push the rpm much. So...I dont feel the need for cams with boost.
 

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at a mere 347whp

drives me crazy can't really nail it
used cautiously you can make it really hustle

nowa days
a 13sec street car is ho hum

and most turbos i have encountered on street tires
will have great difficulty breaking into the 12s

high speed rollons are another thing

from 100mph up
not many other modded sentra's, not even vq's, will stay with a good turbo qr
imo

but from a dig

don't say fwd
wait till you see a honda R launch with over 300hp

straight as an arrow foot to the floor


so it is possible

just not on ours
[oh where forght art thou slicks]

btw
Cliff at 2jr has one
 

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at a mere 347whp

drives me crazy can't really nail it
used cautiously you can make it really hustle

nowa days
a 13sec street car is ho hum

and most turbos i have encountered on street tires
will have great difficulty breaking into the 12s

high speed rollons are another thing

from 100mph up
not many other modded sentra's, not even vq's, will stay with a good turbo qr
imo

but from a dig

don't say fwd
wait till you see a honda R launch with over 300hp

straight as an arrow foot to the floor


so it is possible

just not on ours

[oh where forght art thou slicks]

btw
Cliff at 2jr has one
This MIGHT be possible if we had more than just a small hand full of people and manufacturers interested in this platform. Nobody wants to make performance parts that they cannot sell, and this platform does NOT lend itself to generic parts, ie: traction bars, etc. At one point someone was trying to develop traction bars for the Sentra, but they seem, like most projects, to have just faded away. 2J is more enthusiastic about the road course type racing, so most of their parts are geared towards that rather than drag race launches. I do agree about the roll ons Yogi mentioned tho, I have had several runs that start at about 75mph, drop to 4th, nail the throttle, and watch MOST drivers jaw drop in the rear view mirror.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Finally after too much trouble, trial and error, a stiff bill, and a little luck, the block and head are in my hands!!!!!

The main bearings were replaced with the HX series bearings (with 0.001" extra clearance) that are meant for the SR20 of all things. I dont know what 2J supplies because I could never find a bearing specifically meant for the QR25. I pulled out on of the bearings that I supplied and you could see a couple nice gouges at the ends of the bearing where the tangs are. Even in the machinists ACL booklet there was no QR25 listed. Anyways with the new mains in, everything was smooth and rotated with ease with the right oil clearance (0.015"-0.020") as it should. The main studs were instructed by ARP to torque to 60ft/lbs but when installed, the stud actually stretched! Luckily he had another on hand. He has a list of tq specs for ACL bearings assembled with moly lube and that is listed at 48ft/lbs so thats what it is currently at.

As far as the head goes there were no problems there. Nissan apparently only gave me 8 valve spring caps instead of 16. I also dont think he ground down the ribs on the head on that one part (believe #1 cylinder) for the C1's to fit. I will do that. I swear I read that in the instructions but dont exactly remember. All good though.

All of these small inconveniences added up to one big ass fuck. But luckily Im a very patient guy and I just take it as it is. Even after 7 months of waiting for him to even put a finger on it, even after the re-hone and straightening, even after the 4360943 test fit attempts to get it right, it is finally right and that is all I could ever wish for.

Ill post better pics when I get it on the stand.

engine block assembled.jpg

engine block assembled2.jpg

Ill be broke for a while now. Still waiting for intercooler pipes from Treadstone. Ill post all of my Xmas presents to myself when I have them all.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
thats great Sus!!! you should be good to go for the next Meat!
Pfft! Got another 2 years ahead of me...

9.9 is lil to light for turbo ap try for 12lb and up and make sure your not running a lw crank pulley
This is one thing Im trying not to second guess. The ATI damper is surprisingly heavy so Im hoping that will solve alot of the worry in multiple ways.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Those are the hopes exactly. Wont know for sure til its running!
 

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So you ended up using SR20 main bearings? I never even thought to compare or try them... but would open up a world of options if they work. (HX like you mentioned, as well as race bearing options from ACL as the QR bearing is only offered non-coated)
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Yup sr20 mains. Sorry for sideways pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
This is how it sits on the stand in my dining room lol. Ganna sit for quite a while I think. Tried turning it by hand, felt alittle tight to me.....
 

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