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This story started in a couple other threads, but decided to make a single thread for updates.

My 2004 Spec V started out in Tennessee with an owner that put some money into it and sold at 130,000 miles to a couple in Michigan and became a Momma's boy's toy. I found it at 150,000 miles when I was looking for something fun that would allow me to retire my 1989 Ford LTD Crown Victoria from daily driving.

Aside from some clear-coat damage, the car body was in great shape and came with what appears to be an Apexi catback exhaust, some aftermarket pre-catless shorties and a proper Injen CAI with a Big Ole Spectre filter on the end of it.

Unbeknownst to me at the time of purchase the previous owner's dad had done a half-assed top-end rebuild that damaged the pcv port on the valve cover, and messed up timing. Something that screwed into the top of the timing cover is missing, resulting in a hole going direct into the timing cover and damaged timing assembly that made some horrendous clacking at 2-5k rpm. Plus, the engine showed signs of the infamous pre-cat oil consumption problem.

I'm low budget, and basically staked most of my money on this Craigslist car only to have the engine be borked.


So, I did what anyone would do and said "f**k it, let's swap in a JDM motor with upgraded clutch and flywheel and throw in some new Tranny fluid while we're at it." 20170902_163400.jpg 20170902_163419.jpg

As of right now, the motor swap is still in progress, I'll give a day-by-day synopsis of what got done as it gets done!
 

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Day 1/Day 2
Got the new engine and inspected the bell housing to verify this is in fact a qr25 and it all looks like OEM casting no signs of welding
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popped the CAI off the Sentra
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pulled the plastic intake off the new engine and inspected the intake/exhaust ports. Everything looking good, got some oil on the spark plugs, but that's probably from the compression test. 20170902_201906.jpg 20170902_171925.jpg 20170902_194824.jpg 20170902_194840.jpg Also took off the 4-1 headers from the Sentra and set those aside.
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Speaking as a newb to this, wiring harnesses are fun.

Tune in next time for removing the intake and accessories!
 

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Day 3

Got the intake removed as well as the remainder of the wiring harness and shift linkage from the transmission. Popped out the axles and discovered that I had 2 different sized axle nuts. Those buggers did not wanna come off.

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Disconnected the AC Compressor to make sure that I had enough Room to take out the engine, so It looks like I'm getting a recharge.

Got all the coolant and power steering lines disconnected with no problems and drained them; Engine and radiator full of nice clear green (Prestone?) coolant so it's had it's flushes done.

Also checked out the transmission fluid before I poured it into a oil jug. Little dirty, but almost no metal shavings, so the trans should hold up well.
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Here's the engine Bay just before we pulled it
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Tried to wiggle out the engine and transmission en masse but with the cherry picker and chains we were using there wasn't enough Room to take it out without removing the radiator and the Condenser.
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But finally....
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It was out.
 

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Thanks Yogi!
Gonna put the clutch and flywheel in as soon as my 14 lb 2J Flywheel gets here. In the meantime, I've got a Brute Force Clutch kit waiting in the wings.
 

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Joe's awesome. He helped me out when I called to make a decision on the flywheel, specifically steering me away from the 9lb one, since he felt it would be too light for daily driving.
 

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steel flywheels take the most abuse in my experience
and store enough energy for a DD

the drop in weight from the stock flywheel is noticeable

i ovaled the drive holes on the aluminum wheel
and i felt it did not store enough energy for a DD or a drag car

but the aluminum wheel is excellent for a pure autocross or track only car
improves shifting up and down

imo
 

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The good old time when my car was dead and was trying to fix it.
 
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