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2008 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So in the future months i am thinking of installing a turbo on my spec v i saw 2j sells the threadstone kit but i wanted to try and save up some more money to hopefully rebuild the engine internals with stronger internals so ive been looking at ebay turbo kits i see most of the stuff will fit with minimal modifications and i might need to order extra parts but i wanted to know it it was going to be worth the trouble if anyone amhas done either routes
 

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if you are going to build you engine do NOT cheap out on a turbo kit...really ebay stuff isnt a kit. Its a complete fabricate yourself turbo build...and ebay parts suck. thats just the reality of it. Will they work? sure. For how long? Copied from another person who asked this a month or two ago;

Original thread:
Turbo kit first draft. Suggestions wanted!


I HIGHLY recommend the pte4831 for a starter turbo. If down the road you want more power, its very easy to upgrade to a 5431. Also on the subject of that turbo; your going to have to have someone weld a v-band of that size on your your intercooler piping, so $$$.

Oil lines; AVOID AMAZON AND EBAY OIL LINES AT ALL COSTS. They get very brittle very quickly, and if you ever need to move a line to fix or adjust something, it WILL break. I fell pray to this on my first turbo kit I built. I was in my works parking lot, was under the hood tightening a bolt that had loosened up, and SNAP the feel line broke in two. I was stuck.

Intercooler; the z line is a fantastic intercooler. I use those on the Jukes and b17 sentras often. at 250 whp you could get away with a cheaper intercooler, as your intake air temps at 7ish psi are not going to be very high coming out of the turbo.

Wastegate; VS racing wastegates SUCK. I did a 88mm turbo build on a camaro last year, customer supplied some of the stuff, and that wastegate is 100% a Tial knock off. It failed on the first loaded drive. Get a Turbosmart or Tial wastegate. If you get a v-band wastegate, again $$$, as the cheap log turbo manifolds you can get are a 2 bolt flange, which means youd need an adapter made to connect the gate to it. $$

You have to upgrade the injectors. The oem injectors max out at like 3psi of boost. you can do the "injector mod" to flow more, but its ghetto and not great for fuel mixture. Find a set of used GTR injectors, or some used 440cc STI injectors if price is that big of a deal.

You will need a blow off valve. I am a big fan of the Vee-Port valves. They are fairly cheap, and really simple.

What year is your car? Uprev only works on the 04+ b15's. The 02-03 will require a harness/ecu swap or a piggy back to tune.

Clutch; if your clutch isnt pretty new, your gunna have some slippage as you add torque. My stock clutch with 79k miles on it slipped at 7psi of boost, i cant recall the ft lbs.

Fabrication work is going to be your biggest cost. The downpipe is not something you can just slap together with available parts. It will have to be MADE. That means at the least; mig welding will be involved. Along with steel cutting ect. Same for the intercooler piping. You can slap something together with couplers ect. but it will move a lot and lead to a lot of leaks.

And finally; If you cannot afford to replace the engine. Don't turbo the car. These things are a blast with boost, but lets face it, the oem rods suck ass. If you ever boost spike or something, that shit IS GOING TO BLOW UP. I am also assuming, because its a b15, that it has some good miles on it. Which means the bearings are probably a good way worn, which means they are not going to like the additional pressure being put on them.

If you cant afford to do it right the first time, you will end up spending the same amount of money in the first year or so on replacing parts, as you would have if you bought all the right stuff up front.

I get wanting to do it affordably. I do. I pieced together my first turbo kit. Learned how to do welding putting it together, ect. But looking back; I spent a TON of money replacing the cheap stuff with good stuff, and sacrificed an engine to it.

Not trying to bring your vibe and excitement down, I just don't want you to end up out a car.
 

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If you can fabricate and have an extensive mechanical aptitude, build your own eBay kit. Cause you'll have to custom fix half the parts you get on, from casting flaws to tube size, you're not going to have a good time....
 

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2008 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
if you are going to build you engine do NOT cheap out on a turbo kit...really ebay stuff isnt a kit. Its a complete fabricate yourself turbo build...and ebay parts suck. thats just the reality of it. Will they work? sure. For how long? Copied from another person who asked this a month or two ago;

Original thread:
Turbo kit first draft. Suggestions wanted!


I HIGHLY recommend the pte4831 for a starter turbo. If down the road you want more power, its very easy to upgrade to a 5431. Also on the subject of that turbo; your going to have to have someone weld a v-band of that size on your your intercooler piping, so $$$.

Oil lines; AVOID AMAZON AND EBAY OIL LINES AT ALL COSTS. They get very brittle very quickly, and if you ever need to move a line to fix or adjust something, it WILL break. I fell pray to this on my first turbo kit I built. I was in my works parking lot, was under the hood tightening a bolt that had loosened up, and SNAP the feel line broke in two. I was stuck.

Intercooler; the z line is a fantastic intercooler. I use those on the Jukes and b17 sentras often. at 250 whp you could get away with a cheaper intercooler, as your intake air temps at 7ish psi are not going to be very high coming out of the turbo.

Wastegate; VS racing wastegates SUCK. I did a 88mm turbo build on a camaro last year, customer supplied some of the stuff, and that wastegate is 100% a Tial knock off. It failed on the first loaded drive. Get a Turbosmart or Tial wastegate. If you get a v-band wastegate, again $$$, as the cheap log turbo manifolds you can get are a 2 bolt flange, which means youd need an adapter made to connect the gate to it. $$

You have to upgrade the injectors. The oem injectors max out at like 3psi of boost. you can do the "injector mod" to flow more, but its ghetto and not great for fuel mixture. Find a set of used GTR injectors, or some used 440cc STI injectors if price is that big of a deal.

You will need a blow off valve. I am a big fan of the Vee-Port valves. They are fairly cheap, and really simple.

What year is your car? Uprev only works on the 04+ b15's. The 02-03 will require a harness/ecu swap or a piggy back to tune.

Clutch; if your clutch isnt pretty new, your gunna have some slippage as you add torque. My stock clutch with 79k miles on it slipped at 7psi of boost, i cant recall the ft lbs.

Fabrication work is going to be your biggest cost. The downpipe is not something you can just slap together with available parts. It will have to be MADE. That means at the least; mig welding will be involved. Along with steel cutting ect. Same for the intercooler piping. You can slap something together with couplers ect. but it will move a lot and lead to a lot of leaks.

And finally; If you cannot afford to replace the engine. Don't turbo the car. These things are a blast with boost, but lets face it, the oem rods suck ass. If you ever boost spike or something, that shit IS GOING TO BLOW UP. I am also assuming, because its a b15, that it has some good miles on it. Which means the bearings are probably a good way worn, which means they are not going to like the additional pressure being put on them.

If you cant afford to do it right the first time, you will end up spending the same amount of money in the first year or so on replacing parts, as you would have if you bought all the right stuff up front.

I get wanting to do it affordably. I do. I pieced together my first turbo kit. Learned how to do welding putting it together, ect. But looking back; I spent a TON of money replacing the cheap stuff with good stuff, and sacrificed an engine to it.

Not trying to bring your vibe and excitement down, I just don't want you to end up out a car.
Nice to know where ebay stuff flaw at i have a 08 b16 spec v only 117k miles clutch was replaced about 5k miles ago when i bought it so im not concerned yet about that ive done compression tests and all kinds of tests on it engine is running great still, thats why i had two plans, either go with the name brand build, or cheap out on turbo parts just enought to spend the rest on forged internals, fabrication wise im not that well proned at welding, but very good mechanicly wise so ill be fine ish, but that really narrows down my plans to just go with the treadstone build bc it might be more expensive in the long run with ebay parts
 

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Theres throw up everywhere right now.
 

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There was a guy on facebook market that was selling his Treadstone kit. I'll look later to see if he still has it. i was trying to get some other parts off him but things came up. I believe he was located in CT. As for 2J, I bought a few items from them and have not been disappointed.
 
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