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So with more contact on the belt this wont be an issue?
it definitely wouldnt hurt... look at the stock routing diagram and compare the contact area between the two.

it may not be an issue at all though, i was merely stating it bothers me. When i get my belt in ill take a look at some options to see if i cant figure out something better.
 

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im not a huge fan of that particular alternator bracket either... he used a 10mm bolt hole used to hold the engine cover on to bolt down the alternator. i highly doubt thats the most reinforced spot to use.
 

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Hiem joints are designed to move and allowing something on a belt to move doesn't work for me. In addition to that it puts all of the stress from side to side on the bottom bolt and a snapped bolt means a loose belt which at high speeds could mean a blown motor seeing as the water pump wouldn't be running if that happened.
 

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You need to remove the slugs out of the valve body in your steering rack for it to be the best it can be. That's why you wennies can't turn the wheel when the belt is off, the rack is still pressurized. Heres a link to how I did it on my 92 Integra. Generation 2 Integra Club™ Forum - The New P/S Removal Thread (56K warning)
The pictures don't work in that thread anymore. Guess I'm going at it blind. I removed the hoses that ran to the resivour but haven't messed with the two metal lines that come out the side. You do anything with these?
 

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Yea your right. Well it's pretty simple. Once the cover to the valve body is off, your basically going to gut it by removing the springs, slugs, and any pins that might be in there. They just slide out since there all lubed up. He then discusses looping the lines back to themselves in way identical to the tb bypass mod for the spec. Same idea. He mentioned this because he was removing all hard lines from the power steering system. I didn't do that. I just put the lines back on the valve body as they were. I didn't even have to take the rack out to do any of it either. Just a jack and wrench. Let us know how you fair. Post pics :smile:
 

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So I removed the four lines that go into the column, 2 go to the pump, the other two go along the column. I tried to get bolts to cap them off with but couldn't find any. So I used some jb weld and filled in the holes where the lines went.

For the actual pump. I decided I was going to gut the pump to keep the stock belt routing for the water pump pulley. I got most of it apart but having trouble removing the large line bracket. Might cut it of tomorrow. With leaving the pump case, I won't be dropping as much in the weight, but it gives me piece of mind with water pump. If I had the fabrication skills, it be pretty easy to build a delete bracket like the ac.
 

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Got the PS pump gutted and back together. Just need a couple bolts and some gasket maker to seal off the openings. I weighed the gutted pump assembly and it was 4 pounds and all the stuff from inside the pump was 2 pounds, so almost cut its weight in half. Here's a few pics of it gutted, the shit I took out and it back on my old block.

What was removed.


The look inside all gutted.


And on the block from the top, shows what I need to seal still yet.


And the back view.


Now I don't have to worry, the stock belt can remain on.
 
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