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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been looking around trying to assemble a turbo kit to be installed in the coming winter. This is my first time doing something like this so go easy on me.

Turbo:
I've heard good things about garret and this isn't crazy expensive. I'm shooting for around 250 whp, so I think this can do it.

Intercooler
I really like how this one looks, and it seems like it wouldn't be horrible to mount.

wastegate
7 Psi is what I want so this one seems good

Oil feed lines
I couldn't find any specific ones for the turbo, so I'm hoping these work?

As for the tune, Uprev all the way. Do I need anything fancy or will the base uprev work?

Any advice for the headers/downpipe? There's a performance shop near me that I think can fabricate it (along with the intercooler piping). Is that the best way to do it?

Do I need injectors for 250? If so, what can I do without injectors?

I don't want to spend too much more then this, and would love to shave a few $$$ anywhere I can.

Thanks in advance
 

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Couple comments from a non-qr guy.

1) Buy a good used kit, cheapest option
2) Custom = $$$$$, so, you may list that someone can make a custom manifold, but that will be about 1k, custom downpipe is about $500, custom intercooler piping can be another $500. So, custom is about $2k MINIMUM, to about $4k, depending how generous they want to be.
3) i'm sure the stock injectors wont work.
4) Check out Treadstone, as they may have everything you need at 1 spot.
5) Try to get an internal wastegate turbo. That crosses 2 parts off your list.
6) Who is tuning your car? This you want to find out first. Find an uprev tuner/installer. If you did find someone local and they suggested you look into a custom manifold and downpipe, RUN and find another place. They will quote you $2k total and your bill will be 3x that.

As a basic number. Have about $5k ready to go turbo, whether 200whp, 250whp or 300whp. They misc parts, drilling for oil return, gauges, wiring, custom mounts, battery relocation, heat blankets, lines, injectors, exhaust, etc etc etc etc add up quick.

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Some additional notes if you do plan on sticking with custom. As mentioned above: $$$$ Unless you know how to weld and fabricate.

As pertaining to your list; That is an oem replacement turbo, which means its gunna be hella small. The QR is a big engine for what it is. I HIGHLY recommend the pte4831 for a starter turbo. If down the road you want more power, its very easy to upgrade to a 5431. Also on the subject of that turbo; your going to have to have someone weld a v-band of that size on your your intercooler piping, so $$$.

Oil lines; AVOID AMAZON AND EBAY OIL LINES AT ALL COSTS. They get very brittle very quickly, and if you ever need to move a line to fix or adjust something, it WILL break. I fell pray to this on my first turbo kit I built. I was in my works parking lot, was under the hood tightening a bolt that had loosened up, and SNAP the feel line broke in two. I was stuck.

Intercooler; the z line is a fantastic intercooler. I use those on the Jukes and b17 sentras often. at 250 whp you could get away with a cheaper intercooler, as your intake air temps at 7ish psi are not going to be very high coming out of the turbo.

Wastegate; VS racing wastegates SUCK. I did a 88mm turbo build on a camaro last year, customer supplied some of the stuff, and that wastegate is 100% a Tial knock off. It failed on the first loaded drive. Get a Turbosmart or Tial wastegate. If you get a v-band wastegate, again $$$, as the cheap log turbo manifolds you can get are a 2 bolt flange, which means youd need an adapter made to connect the gate to it. $$

You have to upgrade the injectors. The oem injectors max out at like 3psi of boost. you can do the "injector mod" to flow more, but its ghetto and not great for fuel mixture. Find a set of used GTR injectors, or some used 440cc STI injectors if price is that big of a deal.

You will need a blow off valve. I am a big fan of the Vee-Port valves. They are fairly cheap, and really simple.

What year is your car? Uprev only works on the 04+ b15's. The 02-03 will require a harness/ecu swap or a piggy back to tune.

Clutch; if your clutch isnt pretty new, your gunna have some slippage as you add torque. My stock clutch with 79k miles on it slipped at 7psi of boost, i cant recall the ft lbs.

Fabrication work is going to be your biggest cost. The downpipe is not something you can just slap together with available parts. It will have to be MADE. That means at the least; mig welding will be involved. Along with steel cutting ect. Same for the intercooler piping. You can slap something together with couplers ect. but it will move a lot and lead to a lot of leaks.

And finally; If you cannot afford to replace the engine. Don't turbo the car. These things are a blast with boost, but lets face it, the oem rods suck ass. If you ever boost spike or something, that shit IS GOING TO BLOW UP. I am also assuming, because its a b15, that it has some good miles on it. Which means the bearings are probably a good way worn, which means they are not going to like the additional pressure being put on them.

If you cant afford to do it right the first time, you will end up spending the same amount of money in the first year or so on replacing parts, as you would have if you bought all the right stuff up front.

I get wanting to do it affordably. I do. I pieced together my first turbo kit. Learned how to do welding putting it together, ect. But looking back; I spent a TON of money replacing the cheap stuff with good stuff, and sacrificed an engine to it.

Not trying to bring your vibe and excitement down, I just don't want you to end up out a car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Some additional notes if you do plan on sticking with custom. As mentioned above: $$$$ Unless you know how to weld and fabricate.

As pertaining to your list; That is an oem replacement turbo, which means its gunna be hella small. The QR is a big engine for what it is. I HIGHLY recommend the pte4831 for a starter turbo. If down the road you want more power, its very easy to upgrade to a 5431. Also on the subject of that turbo; your going to have to have someone weld a v-band of that size on your your intercooler piping, so $$$.

Oil lines; AVOID AMAZON AND EBAY OIL LINES AT ALL COSTS. They get very brittle very quickly, and if you ever need to move a line to fix or adjust something, it WILL break. I fell pray to this on my first turbo kit I built. I was in my works parking lot, was under the hood tightening a bolt that had loosened up, and SNAP the feel line broke in two. I was stuck.

Intercooler; the z line is a fantastic intercooler. I use those on the Jukes and b17 sentras often. at 250 whp you could get away with a cheaper intercooler, as your intake air temps at 7ish psi are not going to be very high coming out of the turbo.

Wastegate; VS racing wastegates SUCK. I did a 88mm turbo build on a camaro last year, customer supplied some of the stuff, and that wastegate is 100% a Tial knock off. It failed on the first loaded drive. Get a Turbosmart or Tial wastegate. If you get a v-band wastegate, again $$$, as the cheap log turbo manifolds you can get are a 2 bolt flange, which means youd need an adapter made to connect the gate to it. $$

You have to upgrade the injectors. The oem injectors max out at like 3psi of boost. you can do the "injector mod" to flow more, but its ghetto and not great for fuel mixture. Find a set of used GTR injectors, or some used 440cc STI injectors if price is that big of a deal.

You will need a blow off valve. I am a big fan of the Vee-Port valves. They are fairly cheap, and really simple.

What year is your car? Uprev only works on the 04+ b15's. The 02-03 will require a harness/ecu swap or a piggy back to tune.

Clutch; if your clutch isnt pretty new, your gunna have some slippage as you add torque. My stock clutch with 79k miles on it slipped at 7psi of boost, i cant recall the ft lbs.

Fabrication work is going to be your biggest cost. The downpipe is not something you can just slap together with available parts. It will have to be MADE. That means at the least; mig welding will be involved. Along with steel cutting ect. Same for the intercooler piping. You can slap something together with couplers ect. but it will move a lot and lead to a lot of leaks.

And finally; If you cannot afford to replace the engine. Don't turbo the car. These things are a blast with boost, but lets face it, the oem rods suck ass. If you ever boost spike or something, that shit IS GOING TO BLOW UP. I am also assuming, because its a b15, that it has some good miles on it. Which means the bearings are probably a good way worn, which means they are not going to like the additional pressure being put on them.

If you cant afford to do it right the first time, you will end up spending the same amount of money in the first year or so on replacing parts, as you would have if you bought all the right stuff up front.

I get wanting to do it affordably. I do. I pieced together my first turbo kit. Learned how to do welding putting it together, ect. But looking back; I spent a TON of money replacing the cheap stuff with good stuff, and sacrificed an engine to it.

Not trying to bring your vibe and excitement down, I just don't want you to end up out a car.
Its a 2006 spec v, 123,000 miles on it with the factory clutch that is fine so far. Thanks for the advice. I guess I’ll just save for a lot and hope one comes up used first? Is 123k to many? It was taken care of before I got it and I love this thing to death, but do admittedly drive it pretty hard.
 

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For the price it’s gonna cost build yourself a NA motor and make 230-235whp and don’t have the hassle of custom stuff. Just my .02..not worth to go threw all that aggravation just to make 250whp
 

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For the price it’s gonna cost build yourself a NA motor and make 230-235whp and don’t have the hassle of custom stuff. Just my .02..not worth to go threw all that aggravation just to make 250whp
Cheaper to go boost then built na

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Cheaper to go boost then built na

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to a certain extent yes. But everything is easily available for all motor. At that point all his stuff is brand new. Who’s to say he don’t boost the motor and then it goes boom on him now he’s sh*t outta luck. And everything custom 4 a turbo kit just means $ it’ll be 500 for a long mani alone
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For the price it’s gonna cost build yourself a NA motor and make 230-235whp and don’t have the hassle of custom stuff. Just my .02..not worth to go threw all that aggravation just to make 250whp
What should I get to make N/A power? I was thinking about getting the cams and springs from 2j racing, some injectors, and uprev. I already have a full custom exhaust. Already that’s way less then the ~4K needed for a new turbo kit, so unless I’m missing something big I fail to see how N/A costs more?
 

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What should I get to make N/A power? I was thinking about getting the cams and springs from 2j racing, some injectors, and uprev. I already have a full custom exhaust. Already that’s way less then the ~4K needed for a new turbo kit, so unless I’m missing something big I fail to see how N/A costs more?
U gonna do pistons, crank, cams, etc

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Put it this way. Heres what my build was.
11.5.1 pistons, i beam rods, b16 crank, c1 cams, 2j springs and retainers. V2 medusa header, 3" piping from header back with 2 resonators.
440 injectors with a 340 pump. Made 205whp on 93.

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Put it this way. Heres what my build was.
11.5.1 pistons, i beam rods, b16 crank, c1 cams, 2j springs and retainers. V2 medusa header, 3" piping from header back with 2 resonators.
440 injectors with a 340 pump. Made 205whp on 93.

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with RZ cams and better plenum you would be 220

or he can use stock crank get 11.5 pistons and rods c1 cams plenum. Rev out to 6800
 

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with RZ cams and better plenum you would be 220

or he can use stock crank get 11.5 pistons and rods c1 cams plenum. Rev out to 6800
Omfg bro it cost more money to go Na then to go boost plain and simple. If he finds a decent kit hell make his goal of 250. Whatd you sell your turbo kit for again??? You know dam well cheaper then goin Na.

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Omfg bro it cost more money to go Na then to go boost plain and simple. If he finds a decent kit hell make his goal of 250. Whatd you sell your turbo kit for again??? You know dam well cheaper then goin Na.

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omfg omfg omfg.
im Not saying it’s cheaper I’m saying at 123k on a stock motor it’s a gamble in my eyes
 

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I'm a boost addict. 200% always i advise boost....

Except here. 123k miles. It WILL fail. no doubt about it. I bet the compression numbers arent great as it is.

Do some bolt on's. Get a NA tune. Drive the car. Save your money, do a built engine, then boost it.
 

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I'm a boost addict. 200% always i advise boost....

Except here. 123k miles. It WILL fail. no doubt about it. I bet the compression numbers arent great as it is.

Do some bolt on's. Get a NA tune. Drive the car. Save your money, do a built engine, then boost it.
Exactly. Build a motor on the side so your car not down. Find a turbo kit. Make 350 all day long safely and enjoy it
 
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