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Discussion Starter #1
So I am really really close to have this boosted B15 buttoned up to daily drive without the every weekend repair....however one last oil leak remains.
I keep seeing the bottom of my oil pan being wet with oil. The oil pan bolts have tiny drips on them. I have searched everything and was suspicious that the bottom fitting to the turbo oil drain line which is drilled into the block might be the culprit. But when its jacked up and idling I sit there with a flash light right on that spot and cant see anything leaking or even get wet. SO....I made an executive decision last week and changed out the older treadstone AN10 with a new fitting. Because of the limited space of the location I can only finger tighten the fitting....Then I took a paper napkin and crunched it up around the fitting area between the oil dipstick tube so I could possibly get some evidence of where the heck this oil is coming from. Mind as well start eliminating the variables. I drove it for a week back and forth to work 60 miles a day.

Today I jacked her up and the oil pan is wet again. The napkin is soaked with oil. So now I KNOW where the oil is coming from.



IMG_20170301_145759638.jpg

Now this cut off crescent wrench will reach the fitting if the AC is unbolted and moved to the side...then I can come from behind the compressor and get at it. Well I got 1/2 a turn and that was all.


I used degreaser, and completely cleaned and dried the area around the fitting. wiped the area with a finger - and found it completely dry. After letting the car idle for 20 minutes there is a very tiny bit of oil there just below the fitting that I was able to wipe with a finger.

Ok....I do not know if this was residual or if it is still has a small leak. I am going to drive it week with another napkin crushed up and around the fitting. And will know for certain in 5 days.

My question is .......could it be possible the threads coming out of the block....where it was drilled, might that be the source and if so can it be tightened or should it be unscrewed and some teflon placed around the threads? Anyone familiar with this issue?
 

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So I am really really close to have this boosted B15 buttoned up to daily drive without the every weekend repair....however one last oil leak remains.
I keep seeing the bottom of my oil pan being wet with oil. The oil pan bolts have tiny drips on them. I have searched everything and was suspicious that the bottom fitting to the turbo oil drain line which is drilled into the block might be the culprit. But when its jacked up and idling I sit there with a flash light right on that spot and cant see anything leaking or even get wet. SO....I made an executive decision last week and changed out the older treadstone AN10 with a new fitting. Because of the limited space of the location I can only finger tighten the fitting....Then I took a paper napkin and crunched it up around the fitting area between the oil dipstick tube so I could possibly get some evidence of where the heck this oil is coming from. Mind as well start eliminating the variables. I drove it for a week back and forth to work 60 miles a day.

Today I jacked her up and the oil pan is wet again. The napkin is soaked with oil. So now I KNOW where the oil is coming from.



View attachment 116273

Now this cut off crescent wrench will reach the fitting if the AC is unbolted and moved to the side...then I can come from behind the compressor and get at it. Well I got 1/2 a turn and that was all.


I used degreaser, and completely cleaned and dried the area around the fitting. wiped the area with a finger - and found it completely dry. After letting the car idle for 20 minutes there is a very tiny bit of oil there just below the fitting that I was able to wipe with a finger.

Ok....I do not know if this was residual or if it is still has a small leak. I am going to drive it week with another napkin crushed up and around the fitting. And will know for certain in 5 days.

My question is .......could it be possible the threads coming out of the block....where it was drilled, might that be the source and if so can it be tightened or should it be unscrewed and some teflon placed around the threads? Anyone familiar with this issue?
My drain is welded into the upper pan to stop this from happening. Also check your dipstick tube o ring. And also make sure the dipstick tube is aligned properly!

Good luck...

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
dip stick is good...no leaks there. thx
 

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Don't use Teflon tape. It wont last.
I would personally take it out of the block, clean everything real well and try to get it dry/oil-free, then put red Loctite on the threads and screw it back into the block.
Be sure to use enough Loctite that it will glob up a bit screwing it in and create a good seal.
Let that dry without starting the car for a good 24hrs

This is what I do for catch can fittings in valve covers and it works every time

But as mentioned by someone already, mine is also welded in to avoid this issue
 
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We put gray rtv on mine when we installed it. And as far as I've seen so far it's been fine. Maybe not the prettiest option, but seems to work for me so far


Loctite would work as long as everything is clean. But considering the thread backing out isn't the problem might be overkill. Just need to make sure it's sealed well.

If RTV works on the pan it should work fine there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yes Dave. That is going to be my next move (RTV) if the half turn doesnt fix the issue.
 

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I was ganna say teflon but if you say it wont work from experience, then I wouldnt. Loctite is a good idea but I would personally prefer an RTV as a non permanent and an easy to clean solution if you ever need to remove it. However they do make light duty green loctite. If you use rtv, Right Stuff is the absolute best but its expensive like 15$ for a can. But its really good and can be used immediately without drying. Good for other small things like corners of valve covers, etc.
 

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Weld it in and call it a wrap....
Leak fixed!

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk
 

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Weld it in and call it a wrap....
Leak fixed!

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk
That would be a serious bitch for him to have done at this point.

In general I totally agree! Get it welded when doing your build is the way to do it.

He could pull the pan and take it somewhere. That's the only way it's getting welded now.
 
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That would be a serious bitch for him to have done at this point.

In general I totally agree! Get it welded when doing your build is the way to do it.

He could pull the pan and take it somewhere. That's the only way it's getting welded now.
That's what I did. I fought the leak for a while, then threw my skinny fcker arms up in the and said enuf!!!!
Hahahaha

Had it welded in for $35 and never messed with it again...

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We are talking about the upper pan right? Aluminum weld?
 

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We are talking about the upper pan right? Aluminum weld?
Yep.

I think, but am not sure the fitting is aluminum. Needs to be if welding it.
 

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Here is my welded in fitting... IMG_20160312_145454967.jpg

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Discussion Starter #14
well....i dont see that happening. I think ill remove it and rtv it and call it a day. Its a treadstone blue aluminum that a 10an screws into....by any vhance anyone know the size. I will prolly just buy a set of large ass sockets but - it is looking like a 26mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i think rtv will survive the vibrations longer than red locktite
 

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well....i dont see that happening. I think ill remove it and rtv it and call it a day. Its a treadstone blue aluminum that a 10an screws into....by any vhance anyone know the size. I will prolly just buy a set of large ass sockets but - it is looking like a 26mm.
It should be a 24mm but don't quote me on that one....

Depends on the fitting

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If it is a "flat" then try a crush washer. There are o-ring washers out there where the gasket/o-ring materiel is on the inside of the washer. I can think of other ways besides welding the pan but I'm being lazy and what not...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
crush washer - i hadnt thought of that.
 

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As long as the surfaces is flat, that will work.

Were I put mine is not a flat surface. I could never get the threads to seal....

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Discussion Starter #20
it is flat. It right next to where the dip stick goes into the block. But its in such a difficult place to reach...there is a ledge above and a ledge below. so a wrench is out of the question...will have to use a socket. But yes...it is nice and flat there.
 
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