I’ve had the rear bushing sitting in a drawer the past half year, I just got around to watching a video tutorial for the trailing arm bushings. Are the panhard and RSB bushings about the same difficulty and process?Recently installed super pro panhard, trailing arm bushings and RSB. What a world of difference, the ass just sits and does as its told through corners. Decided I'd pull the super pro bushings off of an old set of LCA's and retrofit the front, cant wait to have the front tightened up!
Damn, I’m glad I asked now. I plan on doing all the work myself, and mine isn’t a daily driver so it’s not going to be a rush. I’m still not sure when I’m going to get around to this but now I know I should try to get a game plan before diving into it.The trailing arms are cake its the pan hard thats a PITA. You will have to drop the entire beam axle to install the pan hard, there are no shortcuts here. But once its out and you have the later link and control rod in hand you can at least take them somewhere for the removal and install. I would HIGHLY recommend finding a shop to do this for you. If you are trying to do this as a home gamer and this is your daily driver, just remember, once you start burning out bushings you are committed. Set aside an entire saturday or sunday for this in case of unexpected snags.
I didnt find much in the way of instructional video pertaining to the pan hard kit to know what I was up against and ended up mackivering a tool-less solution for the bushing installation. I broke out my gopro and got some footage of whats involved with the removal and installation. Ive yet to cut any video together but considering theres not much in the way of walk throughs your post has me motivated to cut something together finally.
Im happy to answer any questions you have. I'll link the video once I get around to cutting and uploading.
Yes, that’s the plan. I’ve got harbor freight’s ball bushing tool which looks to be perfect for at least the trailing arm bushings. I’ve also got a 17 year old brother to help me with the rear assembly so that shouldn’t be too much of an issue to remove or install that hopefully.Definitly take the time to make a plan of attack, its not just the bushing installation that can be difficult. I kinda had to fight with re-installation of the beam axle. You are going to have to align two fixed bolts on the beam with the lateral link and control rod at the same time. I had my beam balanced on a floor jack, its going to want to cant over to one side as you try to make the holes align. Its definitely doable as a one man band but for the love of your fingers and appendages try to have some cribbing in place.
You plan on doing the bushing installation at home as well?
They all have two tap wields on the top of the rear strut bolts. I tried hitting it with a hammer and chisel for shits and giggles, but it didn’t do anything. I decided to just drill through it, and now I’ve got about a 10mm hole in the bolt head. I’ll just drop a new bolt in and call it a day.IIRC you can knock the stud out with a hammer, it's not welded in.
Yep, polyethylene for everything in the rear.I guess it would be easier off the car. Idk if those cylinders for the trailing arm would be available. Good luck on that, I see you removed them.
As far as fuel smell I do believe the vent valve is open when the car is off. Its probly just build up of fuel vapors over 15 years in the canister filter. Shouldnt be too strong if any tho. Replacing it wouldnt hurt.
Are you going poly bushings for the rear and qt link? Should be alittle easier to install than rubber.
So you’ll probably get a more educated answer out of someone else, but I’ll give my best answer. I’ve only had the car for a little over a year, and I haven’t even put 5,000 miles on it yet but I can already tell that the combo I got is a huge improvement over what was most likely the original struts and springs. The old setup used to bottom out over potholes since the 17” wheel setup didn’t really have any tire profile to help the struts out. I was considering going to a small wheel/ larger tire setup to try and remedy this, but the new setup is already a huge improvement on its own. It’s still a stiff ride compared to my other vehicles (stock suspension BRZ, Mk3 Supra w/ Tein Flex Z’s, work truck), but I think that may also be largely due to the stiffer polyurethane bushings and delrin crossmember bushings. I’m still thinking about going to a 15” wheel just to add lightness to the drivetrain, and maybe some Toyo Proxy R888R’s to make it more prepared for autocross/track. I’m not sure if that tire would really add comfort with more tire profile since competition tires are supposed to have stiffer sidewalls, but I would consider it a bonus if it did.Im curious how this spring and damper combo rides. Ive been running koni yellows with Eibach Sportlines for years and while the ride is nice and tight I donk know if want to go with the same when its time to refresh. Specs for comparison on the springs are 200F/333R with a 1.6" drop all around.
I’m looking to spectate an event this year just to see what’s going on and then participate next year if I get the free time. At the moment I’m working on installing new seats and harnesses and fixing whatever new kinks pop up when I’m not traveling for work.Im curious on how well those brakes will hold up at an autocross event. Ive seen those powerstop brake kits online for around 200 bucks.