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Yeah, but now I don't think that was the reason, either way still need a backup clutch cause I'm not going to have time to wait for a rebuild kit.

Someone is selling a twin disk with the b16 part out, forget who it was but I was half tempted to take it off his hands as a back up.
 

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Is it the same part? I didnt think so. Maybe cryo treat the input shaft?
 

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Yeah, but now I don't think that was the reason, either way still need a backup clutch cause I'm not going to have time to wait for a rebuild kit.

Someone is selling a twin disk with the b16 part out, forget who it was but I was half tempted to take it off his hands as a back up.
That was Alen.


 

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Is it the same part? I didnt think so. Maybe cryo treat the input shaft?
Is what the same part....?

The tranny I pulled from the junk yard has been working fine with the current discs with no issues and with not great engagements on my part. All I have is the spine to look at but once I have a tranny prepared for rebuild with what ever gearing I decide its getting all the treatments... hopefully.
 

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Someone is selling a twin disk with the b16 part out, forget who it was but I was half tempted to take it off his hands as a back up.
Sorry b15 vs b16 clutches. I know the flywheel is different.
 

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The OEM flywheel, yes, they didn't specify a difference between the two gens when they did the gb. If he gets the part number on the back of the fly wheel I would know for sure.
 

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Pulled an all-nighter and worked until the sun got too hot to work in. Fixed my AC being stuck on Defrost and replaced the cabin filter
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To give visual perspective, This is the under side of the AC head unit. Specifically the right knob which controls which vent the air comes out of. The housing has been broken for some time and I finally figured out through a youtube vid on an 06 SE how to fix it. I would prefer to have Jb welded a new housing but for now the zip ties are doing what the original metal clip was supposed to do and I have AC again. Which right now is a nice perk.

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The rear left brake caliper has been messed up for some time but I finally got around to swapping it out with a new one through RockAuto. The brake rotors got a good cleaning after this shot because between rust from the old caliper and just.. all the red clay dust that cakes up on cars where I live... I didnt think to take an after picture but the sight of the dirt drove me insane so that got done too.. after that though I went on a deep clean frenzy

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By this point the sun was coming up but I took a couple of very soft wire brush bits on a rotary tool and after installing new radiator bushings, I went to work on the radiator and the air intake and gave them a mothers mag polish after to avoid any oxidizing of the aluminum on the radiator. The sunlight and a full 6 hours of work later I went to bed.

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I know I need new shock boots, its on the list to fix. And Im not stressing the heat shield getting cleaned because Im designing a custom heat shield to replace it with a new exhaust header that will be getting heat wraps to help the heat shield do its job better and protect my alternator and the rest of the internals prone to get damaged by heat. Next weekend I will have the engine out of the car to do a deep clean and replace every seal I can find. (open to suggestions on clutch kits or disks because that is yet to be ordered)
 

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Pulled the plugs that I installed after the dyno a couple of months ago, March/April time frame...nice color...think that is stock temp range.
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Sea-foamed the head, used the cheap rig I made using a lawnmower line/valve from an auto parts store and some hose laying around. I show a pic of it next time, real convenient.

I'm going to need some new vacuum lines in the future.
 

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:oops: yeah thats a pretty strong color
 

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Took the advice from another member and opted to heat wrap my new header. Its going to have a custom heat shield designed and mounted that will also help protect the alternator and other electrical goodies but while this might be overkill, Its a small price to pay to keep the heat where it should be and its far cheaper than getting another alternator. (Also adding heat resistant silicone paint to the wrap to help keep it from fraying but its drying so- Pics to come!
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Took the car to a local tint shop today and got her redone from 35% to 25%. Its pushing legal limits and this is my daily so I opted for that over 15% or lower.
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172250
 

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Looks great!
 
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I just wish I knew more about body work. I really want to repaint it to either Gloss black again, Satin black, or gun metal grey. But I don't have steady hands so while I can fix the little dings and dents that its been given, I cant actually paint it myself without it looking like garbage. Who knows though.. Maybe as long as I can keep it primed, I can learn to get better at it.. or at least prep it for the paint which would still save me a ton of money since that's most of the work.
 

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The car is looking good Eokang. Same here tho I have such bad paint cancer and I would love to have it repainted.

I drove me bitch the last few days and nights. Im contemplating more parts..
 
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Need a dry flow filter for one. But I like the flexpiped midpiped. I suspect my second cat is blowing out as well but not 100%.
 

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finished installing the 2J resonated flex midpipe and it's a HUGE improvement from the 2J test pipe. The bend was way better and the hanger is in a better position so the crush/donut gasket sits and seals better than the test mid pipe, maybe i just got a bum test pipe.

So glad that since i made the switch from their test pipe the exhaust is no longer hitting on the chassis or heat shields so now she no longer rattles, the exhaust makes it more tolerant to drive around with than the test pipe.

I might send a message to joe next week to see if i can send my test pipe back to rebend or something or i may just go local or spend the money on a HarborFreight hydraulic bender. Though i have no plans on reinstalling the test pipe, i might just ditch the test pipe altogether because the resonated mid pipe is that much better XD
 

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I am a little bit of a hoarder, I have the factory cat mid, the srs resonated mid, the 2j test pipe and the now the 2j resonated mid. Been meaning to sell my previous factory and third party parts but again finding time to do it is not in my favor.

Same goes with my Transformers Buy/Sell/Trade. Having too many and having duplicates, looking for the best deal/sale, finding space and having to negotiate with myself to get another storage unit for extending my collection/product. Shit just builds up lol.

But it's also good to know i have something around and know that it will fit right and work in the future for repairs or for resale. I don't know what went wrong with my 2J test pipe but the pipe wasn't bent enough to fully seat and seal on the donut/crush gasket and the rod for the hanger was in the wrong position, i mostly blame the improper bend though.

Why modify the test pipe if you aint using it?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
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You could probly just go to any meineke or any exhaust shop. They have benders, especially if its only a slight bend. Why send it out? $20 in and out for a quick bend.

I need to flush the brake and def the clutch fluid. I was trying to install the rear braided lines and also the braided clutch line but didnt feel like it today. Still debating on flex'd midpipe with cat.

I had the same problem except my midpipe was an inch too long. I had to cut off the flange and reweld another one on because the catback was coming out of its hangers. Also the meeting between header and midpipe was forced. Im think thinking the flexpipe will take up that slack. Dont know what jig 2j uses but its slightly off. I just dont want all the flex to be in the flexpipe because that will reduce its life span.
 
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