What do you mean?
What did you do to your Sentra today?
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Dirt grime etc gets in amd wears them out quicker
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Recently installed super pro panhard, trailing arm bushings and RSB. What a world of difference, the ass just sits and does as its told through corners. Decided I'd pull the super pro bushings off of an old set of LCA's and retrofit the front, cant wait to have the front tightened up!
I’ve had the rear bushing sitting in a drawer the past half year, I just got around to watching a video tutorial for the trailing arm bushings. Are the panhard and RSB bushings about the same difficulty and process?
I just ordered 2JR’s lowering springs with the KYB struts so I may as well do a suspension refresh everywhere else when I get around to it.
The trailing arms are cake its the pan hard thats a PITA. You will have to drop the entire beam axle to install the pan hard, there are no shortcuts here. But once its out and you have the later link and control rod in hand you can at least take them somewhere for the removal and install. I would HIGHLY recommend finding a shop to do this for you. If you are trying to do this as a home gamer and this is your daily driver, just remember, once you start burning out bushings you are committed. Set aside an entire saturday or sunday for this in case of unexpected snags.
I didnt find much in the way of instructional video pertaining to the pan hard kit to know what I was up against and ended up mackivering a tool-less solution for the bushing installation. I broke out my gopro and got some footage of whats involved with the removal and installation. Ive yet to cut any video together but considering theres not much in the way of walk throughs your post has me motivated to cut something together finally.
Im happy to answer any questions you have. I'll link the video once I get around to cutting and uploading.
Damn, I’m glad I asked now. I plan on doing all the work myself, and mine isn’t a daily driver so it’s not going to be a rush. I’m still not sure when I’m going to get around to this but now I know I should try to get a game plan before diving into it.
Definitly take the time to make a plan of attack, its not just the bushing installation that can be difficult. I kinda had to fight with re-installation of the beam axle. You are going to have to align two fixed bolts on the beam with the lateral link and control rod at the same time. I had my beam balanced on a floor jack, its going to want to cant over to one side as you try to make the holes align. Its definitely doable as a one man band but for the love of your fingers and appendages try to have some cribbing in place.
You plan on doing the bushing installation at home as well?
Yes, that’s the plan. I’ve got harbor freight’s ball bushing tool which looks to be perfect for at least the trailing arm bushings. I’ve also got a 17 year old brother to help me with the rear assembly so that shouldn’t be too much of an issue to remove or install that hopefully.
I’ve done some ball bushings on my Mk3 Supra camber links before, and I had to get creative to get that job done so this isn’t my first rodeo. I essentially had to use long 10.9 bolts, large washers, and nuts to push bushings where I needed them with the harbor freight kit’s “cup” to create space for the bushing to go.
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Doing the bushes on our 2001 Corolla AE112R I used the same method with long bolts but different sized sockets to push and create a gap for the bush to pop out into.
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I said f'it and got the SuperPro kits and a harbor freight small press, but I've used it multiple times.
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The bushings took me like 5hrs with access to a shop. But I also was taking my time and sippin a beer or 5.
I was torquing down my wheels and and noticed the super pro bushing on the drivers side had play. Not that old and not that any miles. Idk. Its not so hard to replace them when the oem one is already out
I was torquing down my wheels and and noticed the super pro bushing on the drivers side had play. Not that old and not that any miles. Idk. Its not so hard to replace them when the oem one is already out
I finished getting the rear end out today, so I’ll probably start trying to remove bushings tomorrow. It would’ve been so much easier to remove this thing if I had a shop lift so that I could get leverage on all those 17mm bolts, but I was able to manhandle everything on jack-stands.
There was another thread on here which mentioned a smell of gasoline when guys were starting their cars and a probable cause discussed was the evap canister. Well I got a good whiff of mine while working on the rear end and it was pretty strong despite the car sitting for about a week, and fuel pressure being relieved the past few days. Is this a sign that I should go ahead and replace it, and if so is it a good idea to replace all parts of it or is it good enough to simply replace the purge or vent valves? I’ll probably remove it from the car soon to get a better diagnosis and see if there’s anything wrong that’s glaringly obvious.
I also need to find a way to remove one of the rear strut bolts; one of mine was broken halfway by a previous owner so that it was lined up into the strut but there wasn’t enough thread to tight a nut onto it. I’m thinking about using a wheel grinder to knock out the thread and then drill a hole through the bolt head where it’s wielded to the body. Then I’ll just drop a new bolt through the hole and get my brother to hold a wrench on the bolt head when I go to tighten the strut in place.
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IIRC you can knock the stud out with a hammer, it's not welded in.
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If you dont have the evap code on the dash, I would just inspect everything. Blow thru the lines, check for leaks, and put it back together. You can always order new sensors now, but it's easy enough to replace when the car is back together.
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They all have two tap wields on the top of the rear strut bolts. I tried hitting it with a hammer and chisel for shits and giggles, but it didn’t do anything. I decided to just drill through it, and now I’ve got about a 10mm hole in the bolt head. I’ll just drop a new bolt in and call it a day.
I also started on the rear assembly bushings today and things went as expected. The trailing arm bushings came out fairly easily, but the cylinders that hold those bushings are pretty rusted. I’m gonna try to see if I can find replacements on a Nissan parts website, or maybe grab a set from the junkyard that don’t look too bad.
I was also able to get this small bushing out by pushing a 22mm socket straight through it. I’m going to have to get creative or find a shop for the last three bushings though, they’re a pain in the ass.
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I guess it would be easier off the car. Idk if those cylinders for the trailing arm would be available. Good luck on that, I see you removed them.
As far as fuel smell I do believe the vent valve is open when the car is off. Its probly just build up of fuel vapors over 15 years in the canister filter. Shouldnt be too strong if any tho. Replacing it wouldnt hurt.
Are you going poly bushings for the rear and qt link? Should be alittle easier to install than rubber.
As far as fuel smell I do believe the vent valve is open when the car is off. Its probly just build up of fuel vapors over 15 years in the canister filter. Shouldnt be too strong if any tho. Replacing it wouldnt hurt.
Are you going poly bushings for the rear and qt link? Should be alittle easier to install than rubber.
Yep, polyethylene for everything in the rear.
Doesn’t look like Nissan or eBay sells those cylinders, so I’ll probably make a junkyard trip to find some in good shape.
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