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Oem... I didnt know valve seals were made aftermarket besides like dorman. They all wear out eventually
 

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I got all but one bushing out so far.
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I got the big bushing on the axel link off by pushing a 1/2” drive 27 mm kobalt socket through.
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I got the little bushing out by pushing a 23mm Pittsburgh socket through. I used a digital caliper to measure the outer diameter of the bushings, then I found sockets that fit just inside.
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The harbor freight ball bushing kit doesn’t come with a cylinder the right size for almost anything you’re working on, so I used the threaded fitting to push the bushings into.
 

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Any advice on this POS on the panhard rod would be greatly appreciated.
My original plan was to hacksaw through the bushing shell by threading the blade through the hole first and back onto the saw frame. While this might have worked I ended up using my dremel to cut an X pattern. Obviously you cant cut straight across so youll have to make diagonal sweeps across the bore from both sides. Was tedious work but as soon as there is a single continuous cut the bushing can be tapped out with a flat head.
 

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Oh yea, I’m the man 😎. I tried a dremel but that took forever without much result. I used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade and carefully cut just enough of the metal sleeve where I could manipulate it with my hammer and screwdriver. All bushings are out now and I’ll begin installing the new ones.
 

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I’m cleaning up all the holes with wire brushes, here’s the inside of the pivot arm bushing sleeves. I really wanna get the rear end back on the car sooner than later so I’m thinking about reusing these and maybe painting them to prevent future rust.
 

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Hand tool Kitchen utensil Tool Cutlery Tableware

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I got excited and changed my mind on painting those sleeves. I’ve installed all but one bushing so far using 5/8” threaded rod and hardware to press the bushings in per SuperPro’s tutorial onYoutube. The only reason I’m not finished is because I froze all the bushings before install and the one got too warm and flexible to press in. I’m freezing it again and I’m expecting to have the whole rear end reinstalled tomorrow probably.
 

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I got another chunk done today. Rear end and rear struts/2JR lowering springs are now installed.
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I also think I figured out what was going on with the fumes smell and the evap canister. I took a look at everything and found that one of the hoses that comes from it vents out behind the rear bumper right next to the vent for the trunk. I removed the rubber connecting hose in the next picture; the pipe goes straight behind the bumper into a little vent box thing.
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I’m assuming that all the fuel vapor fumes are simply venting inside the bumper and making their way straight into the cabin (thanks Nissan). This explains why the fumes became way worse after I removed the the trunk interior. I decided to reroute the plumbing so that it can stay outside the bumper and vent straight to the atmosphere.
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This white piece is attached to the end of the hose to prevent foreign objects from making their way into the evap canister. I decided it would be a good idea to reuse it in my new plumbing.
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I drilled a hole in the bottom of the bumper for the white piece to clip into; this is where the fumes will exit now once the hoses are reconnected.
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I also decided to reuse the little black box thing that the white piece was attached to so that the fumes would have a direction to exit.
Hopefully I won’t have any more fuel vapor fume issues once the car is back on the road.
 
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