What did you do to your Sentra today?
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I got all but one bushing out so far.
![Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Fixture Gas]()
I got the big bushing on the axel link off by pushing a 1/2” drive 27 mm kobalt socket through.
![Motor vehicle Fixture Bumper Automotive exterior Gas]()
I got the little bushing out by pushing a 23mm Pittsburgh socket through. I used a digital caliper to measure the outer diameter of the bushings, then I found sockets that fit just inside.
![Automotive tire Light Product Font Line]()
The harbor freight ball bushing kit doesn’t come with a cylinder the right size for almost anything you’re working on, so I used the threaded fitting to push the bushings into.
I got the big bushing on the axel link off by pushing a 1/2” drive 27 mm kobalt socket through.
I got the little bushing out by pushing a 23mm Pittsburgh socket through. I used a digital caliper to measure the outer diameter of the bushings, then I found sockets that fit just inside.
The harbor freight ball bushing kit doesn’t come with a cylinder the right size for almost anything you’re working on, so I used the threaded fitting to push the bushings into.
My original plan was to hacksaw through the bushing shell by threading the blade through the hole first and back onto the saw frame. While this might have worked I ended up using my dremel to cut an X pattern. Obviously you cant cut straight across so youll have to make diagonal sweeps across the bore from both sides. Was tedious work but as soon as there is a single continuous cut the bushing can be tapped out with a flat head.
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Man...what I'm reading about the rear end is to take it to a shop and let them do it.
Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
Oh yea, I’m the man 😎. I tried a dremel but that took forever without much result. I used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade and carefully cut just enough of the metal sleeve where I could manipulate it with my hammer and screwdriver. All bushings are out now and I’ll begin installing the new ones.
I’m cleaning up all the holes with wire brushes, here’s the inside of the pivot arm bushing sleeves. I really wanna get the rear end back on the car sooner than later so I’m thinking about reusing these and maybe painting them to prevent future rust.
I got excited and changed my mind on painting those sleeves. I’ve installed all but one bushing so far using 5/8” threaded rod and hardware to press the bushings in per SuperPro’s tutorial onYoutube. The only reason I’m not finished is because I froze all the bushings before install and the one got too warm and flexible to press in. I’m freezing it again and I’m expecting to have the whole rear end reinstalled tomorrow probably.
I got another chunk done today. Rear end and rear struts/2JR lowering springs are now installed.
![Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design]()
I also think I figured out what was going on with the fumes smell and the evap canister. I took a look at everything and found that one of the hoses that comes from it vents out behind the rear bumper right next to the vent for the trunk. I removed the rubber connecting hose in the next picture; the pipe goes straight behind the bumper into a little vent box thing.
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gas]()
![Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle]()
![Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Paint]()
I’m assuming that all the fuel vapor fumes are simply venting inside the bumper and making their way straight into the cabin (thanks Nissan). This explains why the fumes became way worse after I removed the the trunk interior. I decided to reroute the plumbing so that it can stay outside the bumper and vent straight to the atmosphere.
![Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim]()
This white piece is attached to the end of the hose to prevent foreign objects from making their way into the evap canister. I decided it would be a good idea to reuse it in my new plumbing.
![Train Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Engineering]()
![Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper]()
![Tire Wheel Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle]()
I drilled a hole in the bottom of the bumper for the white piece to clip into; this is where the fumes will exit now once the hoses are reconnected.
![Automotive tail & brake light Tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood]()
I also decided to reuse the little black box thing that the white piece was attached to so that the fumes would have a direction to exit.
Hopefully I won’t have any more fuel vapor fume issues once the car is back on the road.
I also think I figured out what was going on with the fumes smell and the evap canister. I took a look at everything and found that one of the hoses that comes from it vents out behind the rear bumper right next to the vent for the trunk. I removed the rubber connecting hose in the next picture; the pipe goes straight behind the bumper into a little vent box thing.
I’m assuming that all the fuel vapor fumes are simply venting inside the bumper and making their way straight into the cabin (thanks Nissan). This explains why the fumes became way worse after I removed the the trunk interior. I decided to reroute the plumbing so that it can stay outside the bumper and vent straight to the atmosphere.
This white piece is attached to the end of the hose to prevent foreign objects from making their way into the evap canister. I decided it would be a good idea to reuse it in my new plumbing.
I drilled a hole in the bottom of the bumper for the white piece to clip into; this is where the fumes will exit now once the hoses are reconnected.
I also decided to reuse the little black box thing that the white piece was attached to so that the fumes would have a direction to exit.
Hopefully I won’t have any more fuel vapor fume issues once the car is back on the road.
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Getting the new header tomorrow but won't be there to receive it since I'm still in Kansas.....uhh.
Due to looking for a new job I might delay the SC purchase and I'm still trying to decide between two of them as well or til July.
Due to looking for a new job I might delay the SC purchase and I'm still trying to decide between two of them as well or til July.
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Which header you getting?
Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
I’ve been trying to dig through old topics on superchargers lately. Are guys just making their own adapter plates to bolt Eaton M90’s to the lower runners or something? I got rid of the cast manifold in favor of a plastic Altima plenum so I guess superchargers are out of the question for me now?
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Who ? Where ? Post a link
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I ordered the newer 2JR race header
By choice and not by choice, been here for about close to 2 months now, and that crossmember is on my list
Centrifugal SC with the only ones based off of a kit built with a vortec unit IIRC that was mounted next to the alternator, there was someone on here that was manufacturing the plates/hardware but I was not going that route as I am going with a rotex unit. Kev is th eonly person that I know that is still working on a manifold based SC.
Who ? Where ? Post a link
Vision One Racing Hotness
You saw it here first! V1R has been working on some things behind the scenes, and let's just say... Preliminary results are looking VERY promising! There is still a long ways to go before releasing to the public, but take heed knowing that some damn good shit is coming your way...
www.b15u.com
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Well I'm going to be selling one of the older race header....will have to figure out when I'll be pulling the other one off the car, but I might be starting a new job around the end of this month beginning of this month.
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