A Nissan Sentra Forum banner

21 - 33 of 33 Posts

Registered
Joined
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Interested to see full pictures of the car.
I'll show you stock for now. Once paint and wide body is done. I will share that as well as the different phases this car went through. Back when I thought plastidip in spray cans was awesome... 馃槅 I swear I changed it three times till I found the color I really liked.
 

Registered
Joined
1,999 Posts
I've been looking for one with that package for a while now. Hard to find a low mileage and clean one like yours though.
 

Registered
Joined
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
I've been looking for one with that package for a while now. Hard to find a low mileage and clean one like yours though.
Yeah mine is about to stand out like a sore thumb. They are rare for sure, but also I don't see any customized like mine either. My car gets confused a lot, I've heard things such as... Cadillac, Subaru, and Mitsubishi Evo. It's funny to see the look on their face when I say no it's a sentra.

KittyKat
 

Registered
Joined
50 Posts
Alright, and thanks for the advice and help overall. What parts am I going to need as far as internal and boost timer? Can I run it for track at one PSI and one for the streets? Here's a teaser picture... I'm building a Villain car.
I wanted to chime in here a little and provide a little feedback with being a former S14 SR20DET swapped owner. The SR20DET is a great motor when they're at or close to stock. The main problem I ran into is the pure expense of having it tuned with a standalone and also keeping it reliable. Truthfully, the QR25DE from what I've been looking is a great engine and it's just as stout. As Crick has said...Nissan pulled out all the stops to make this engine reliable (mainly because the first gen was a complete dumpster fire) and of the few SE-R Spec V's I've seen, I've seen many with north of 150k on the clock. There's a guy at my work who just bought a Silver 2010 and he's one of two owners and has 173,000 miles with the original engine and transmission. So basically my point is that with the expense of swapping a SR20, you could have purchased a turbo kit and put around the same wheel horsepower as many of the SR20 guys with a bit more torque. What I would want to know is your end goal with the car. Are you looking for something with 250-300 wheel HP that's just fun to play with, are you replacing an engine that's dying, or are you wanting to swap a SR20 just to swap an SR20?

I was in the same boat for a few months after I bought my Spec because I'm very used to my previous projects where the stock engine was garbage with very little power potential but there's a half million different swaps out there to make the platform better. After reading this forum endlessly and speaking to people like Crick and others I actually found a lot about the QR25 and I've decided just to build it instead of dealing with the hassle of an engine swap of any kind (VQ swap seems to be popular).
 

Registered
Joined
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I wanted to chime in here a little and provide a little feedback with being a former S14 SR20DET swapped owner. The SR20DET is a great motor when they're at or close to stock. The main problem I ran into is the pure expense of having it tuned with a standalone and also keeping it reliable. Truthfully, the QR25DE from what I've been looking is a great engine and it's just as stout. As Crick has said...Nissan pulled out all the stops to make this engine reliable (mainly because the first gen was a complete dumpster fire) and of the few SE-R Spec V's I've seen, I've seen many with north of 150k on the clock. There's a guy at my work who just bought a Silver 2010 and he's one of two owners and has 173,000 miles with the original engine and transmission. So basically my point is that with the expense of swapping a SR20, you could have purchased a turbo kit and put around the same wheel horsepower as many of the SR20 guys with a bit more torque. What I would want to know is your end goal with the car. Are you looking for something with 250-300 wheel HP that's just fun to play with, are you replacing an engine that's dying, or are you wanting to swap a SR20 just to swap an SR20?

I was in the same boat for a few months after I bought my Spec because I'm very used to my previous projects where the stock engine was garbage with very little power potential but there's a half million different swaps out there to make the platform better. After reading this forum endlessly and speaking to people like Crick and others I actually found a lot about the QR25 and I've decided just to build it instead of dealing with the hassle of an engine swap of any kind (VQ swap seems to be popular).

Hello there, so like I just want to build it too have fun and track it sometimes too. This will take a couple years or so. My car all original engine and mileage is at 83,000 miles. It's a 2011
 

Registered
Joined
2,022 Posts
I've been looking for one with that package for a while now. Hard to find a low mileage and clean one like yours though.
I'll sell you my 2011 shell with less than 30k on it with the GPS and LSD tranny and sunroof 馃檭 also has BC coilovers that were driven on for less than 1000 miles and a 3 inch brm exhaust
 

Registered
Joined
50 Posts
Hello there, so like I just want to build it too have fun and track it sometimes too. This will take a couple years or so. My car all original engine and mileage is at 83,000 miles. It's a 2011

At the end of the day, what you do is entirely up to yourself. But, I would honestly recommend working with the QR. Typically, the newer the engine, the better results you'll have. At this time, the last vehicle to be sold with an SR20DE/T is almost 18+ years old. So not only do you have the expense of swapping an engine into a vehicle that was never meant to have it, but you'll also be fighting a decade or more worth of age. There's a lot of information on here regarding people making decent power and making reliable power whether N/A, turbo or even nitrous. For myself, I plan on hitting about 200-225 wheel and leaving it there. At that power level, without any form of TCS, it becomes very difficult to hook even with a limited slip and I daily drive my car as well as track day it and I need something that's not going rip the wheel out of my hand as soon as I go around a damp curve or be impossible to hook up anytime it's less than 30 degrees. After that number, I'll be looking at more power ready vehicles such as possibly another Eagle Talon TSI, 2000+ Mustang Cobra or even a '05+ Mustang GT. At that point, the amount spent for the speed received is a lot better and I at that point would have honed my track skills enough to make the jump from 200WHP to 250-350+.
 
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Top