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Discussion Starter #41
Here is the stamping on the block, This engine has the oil spits at the bottom of each cylinder
Engine Numbers.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I was doing some more reading last night and came across an article that said the serviceable life of the Spec V engine was only 130,000 miles. If this is true and this engine (or the car rather) does have 130,000 on it now, it is about time for it to go anyway. If that is fact, I don't want another engine that is already half or three quarters gone when I put it in. I will just go ahead and rebuild.

Question on the pistons: It is obvious that metal specks have been doing a number on the moving parts of this engine. While the cylinders aren't scored there is a light wear pattern where the skirts have made their mark. The rest of the cylinder still have the hone marks. I can easily put new hone marks back in the walls. My concern is some of the coating on the pistons is worn back to the orignal metal. Could I just polish the pistons up and use them again? I sure hope so.

I don't have a set of mics anymore to check out of round. I was surprised at how much skirt clearance they allow on new Spec Vs skirt to cylinder wall now days. Back in the 60s a regular daily driver, I would give the skirt to piston skirt .002 and if pop up pistons, hot rods, I would give .004.

I don't understand how someone today can order a set of pistons and just put them in an engine without reboring to that piston. I have never seen a set of pistons that miced out the same yet. Are today's pistons that good that they are all the same now. I have seen pistons with teflon buttons very .006 and back then some of them ran over $600 a set when a full set of standard pistons cost $23. Ok, I am rambling here, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I am about ready to throw in the towel, this engine is kicking my butt. I just carried the crank to have it turned, no can do unless they weld up one journal. Question will a crank from a 2008 altima 2.5 fit this engine? Is there any crank other than a SE-R Spec V crank that will fit.
Man, quoting my own post. lol I have found out since posting this question that a 2007 up Altima 2.5 crank will fit the SE R Spec V BUT, it will not have the 8 counter weights on the crankshaft like the Spec V does. Also the rods are not as strong in the Altima. also any engine that says it is a SE R Spec V engine but came with a CVT transmission is NOT a spec V engine. Only the SE R Spec V has a 6 speed stick, none of the engines with a CVT transmission will have the 8 counter weights and will not be Spec V.

Thank you Tritton and Cricki for setting me straight, y'all have taught me a lot and I appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I am hitting a dead end trying to find a crankshaft for the 2008 SE R Spec V engine. I can buy one from the dealer but it is way way out of my financial means. Does any one know where I can buy a Sepc V crank 2007-2011. I will even buy a crank that needs grinding or even if it needs a journal welded, I really need to get this engine back together. I sure could use some help. Thanks

Jim
 

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You are getting hung up on the crankshaft and the transmission type needing to be aligned.

This is not true Jim.

You can use any Cranshaft with any Transmission.

You will not have any problems, especially as a daily driver.

If this was a performance mod, I'd advise otherwise.

To get back on the road and drive as a normal car, any Crank in that year set (07-11) will be okay.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
You are getting hung up on the crankshaft and the transmission type needing to be aligned.

This is not true Jim.

You can use any Cranshaft with any Transmission.

You will not have any problems, especially as a daily driver.

If this was a performance mod, I'd advise otherwise.

To get back on the road and drive as a normal car, any Crank in that year set (07-11) will be okay.
If I go back with the same kind of crank I have now, will the engine shake like crazy if I disconnect the balance shaft?
 

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Discussion Starter #48
No, I think someone dogged the dickens out of this car, since they gutted the front catalytic converters and cut the rear one completely out. Also installed the K&N air filter, which they over oiled the filter and ruined the MAS sensor. Someone got into this engine before I bought it and put the 4 weighted crank and smaller rods. It has made the clicking sound every since we bought it. I am really hard of hearing since working really close to jet fighters under flying power. These hearing aids make things sound much different than they actually sound so I thought it was the valve lifter rattling, when it was actually a rod with way too much slack.

I went ahead and ordered a new crank, like the one in it now. It will have the rod and main bearings. I ordered new rings, oil pump, head bolts, a full gasket set, rear main seal, valve stem seals. Now I am trying to find a rod that matches the ones I have now. Do you think the one in the photo is from an Altima 2.5. The ones in a frontier 2.5 looks like the one I have. I assume most stock 2.5 rods will look like this one. I will wait to hear from you before I order it.
Rod and Piston.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Question, what is the clearance between the piston and cylinder wall? SE R Spec V 2.5?
 

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Turns out I have an 08's FSM on my phone
 
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Discussion Starter #52
Turns out I have an 08's FSM on my phone
Man, that is cool, how did you get it? Thanks for the information, I appreciate it.

By the way, have you disconnected the balance shaft on your 4 counter weighted crank engine? Does it shake really bad? I am looking to see if I can find that information before I get to that part of the build. I really don't want to hook that BS back up.
 

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I have an 03 so my engine is mounted different, I don't remember what the vibrations were like on stock mounts but I didn't mind it with inserts.
 

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Thought you said you have the FSM what ever the case, that is all of them for that year in the link above, I think they are somewhere on this site but it was easier to get a link from the other place.
 
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If you do use this 4CW crank, I would advise not to rev it to the 7k redline. The Spec V used the 8cw crank for a reason. Some people have revved the 4cw crank past 6500 or even 7500 and had luck so take it with a grain of salt.

Also as for the stamping, I was actually looking for this stamping. It should be in the back towards the #4 cylinder by the crank sensor. We obviously know that your car was swapped out due to the crank, but I forget if you mentioned that it was. Plus the vin is there too just to see if it matches the car.

170971
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Thought you said you have the FSM what ever the case, that is all of them for that year in the link above, I think they are somewhere on this site but it was easier to get a link from the other place.
Cricki, I do have the FSM on my computer. I may have misunderstood that you could also get it on your phone. One more question, what are mount inserts? I may have asked that before, CRS ya know, can't remember stuff. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #58
If you do use this 4CW crank, I would advise not to rev it to the 7k redline. The Spec V used the 8cw crank for a reason. Some people have revved the 4cw crank past 6500 or even 7500 and had luck so take it with a grain of salt.

Also as for the stamping, I was actually looking for this stamping. It should be in the back towards the #4 cylinder by the crank sensor. We obviously know that your car was swapped out due to the crank, but I forget if you mentioned that it was. Plus the vin is there too just to see if it matches the car.

View attachment 170971
MoltenNismo , if that is the vin # that engine did not come out of this car. The top picture is the engine # the other picture is the actual vin # of the car.
Engine Number.jpg
Actual Vin number.jpg

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Oh you can believe I will never rev the engine even close to 6000 rpm. I appreciate the advice, thank you.
 

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Yup. That was swapped in from an Altima. JA0 is the 07-12 Altima block. The SER/Rogue blocks should have ET80 and the Spec has ET81.

Did you know that somebody swapped it over?

You could probably just buy a 4cw crank, spec v rods/pistons and call it a day. The parts catalog shows the same crank was used between altima, rogue and base SER. The FSM doesn't show different measurements between the base SER vs Spec V QR25DE. Don't quote me on that, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Probably just don't rev it as high if you're using the 4cw crank?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Yup. That was swapped in from an Altima. JA0 is the 07-12 Altima block. The SER/Rogue blocks should have ET80 and the Spec has ET81.

Did you know that somebody swapped it over?

You could probably just buy a 4cw crank, spec v rods/pistons and call it a day. The parts catalog shows the same crank was used between altima, rogue and base SER. The FSM doesn't show different measurements between the base SER vs Spec V QR25DE. Don't quote me on that, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Probably just don't rev it as high if you're using the 4cw crank?
Molten, that is what I did last night, ordered just what you just listed. No I had no idea that the engine had been swapped. That must not be a vin # as there are only 16 digits instead of 17. I also ordered new bolts from the dealer except for the head bolts. The flywheel, balance shaft, and reluctor wheel bolts cost me $146.00 man they are in love with their parts. I also ordered the dowel pin to mount the reluctor wheel correctly. The dealer parts kept telling me is shows it has 5 dowels. Nope look at the wheel, 4 bolt holes and one dowel hole. They had no idea what was what. I just hope I get the right bolts.

I was worried that they would not get the right bolts so I called them up a few minutes ago and told them that was not the vin # of the engine that I gave them earlier. I told them that was the vin of the car not the engine. He said "we can only go with the vin# on the car". Just unreal, do you fellows ever have this much trouble?
 
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