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You have "regular" pistons in that block after looking at a Spec V piston I have, I guess the whole short block assembly was swapped out.

The piston in the other image is a 1st gen piston, they made a lot of changes to the pistons between the generations.

Do you have a lemon law in your state? This is clearly not the proper assembly and I even wonder if the head is as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
You have "regular" pistons in that block after looking at a Spec V piston I have, I guess the whole short block assembly was swapped out.

The piston in the other image is a 1st gen piston, they made a lot of changes to the pistons between the generations.

Do you have a lemon law in your state? This is clearly not the proper assembly and I even wonder if the head is as well.
Just my blame luck, I have no choice but to keep on rebuilding the engine. I don't know how to check the head to see if it is the right one or not. I would bet it is an Altima head just like the rest of the engine is. The pickup wheel or reluctor wheel is kicking my butt. I thought there was a dowel that fit in the crank to center the wheel. Nope the hole in the crankshaft is round for a round like dowel to fit into. not in the pickup wheel. The hole in the wheel is elongated. The elongated hole is the same width as the hole in the crankshaft. Why in the world didn't they just make it a round hole on both. If you put a dowel in the hole in the crank the wheel will fit and will not move from side to side, but even with the dowel in place, the wheel can be moved up and down.

That wheel is so very very close to the crankshaft sensor even a .0001 or so will hit the sensor, from what I am reading. Do you have any earthly idea where I can get one of the tools to center this wheel. I will bet only Nissan mechanics have one and the public can't get one but if we can it will cost out the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
I am sitting dead in the water until I can find out some information about that pin that goes in the pick up wheel, reluctor wheel or crankshaft position wheel or what ever it is called. I have looked everywhere and there is no information about this pin anywhere. I have to rebuild this engine because we have way too much in it to junk it. I am a disabled vet so buying another engine is out of the question. Does anyone have any information about this pin. I am desperate now. Sorry but I just don't know where to go from here.
 

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The dowel only being for alignment from the looks of it as it is removed prior to install...could use a roll pin/spring bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
The dowel only being for alignment from the looks of it as it is removed prior to install...could use a roll pin/spring bar.
Now that is a good thought, that would solve the side to side centering but not the up and down centering. Look at the two photos, see how the hole in the wheel is not round but elongated. Then look at the old crankshaft the hole is perfectly round for a round dowel. If you look close to the wheel you can see through the hole of the wheel to the round hole behind the elongated hole.

I got a wild idea this afternoon. I can clamp a straight piece of something to the lip if where the oil pan bolts onto the block and let the end of the straight edge just touch the wheel. I will rotate the wheel until it touches the straight edge or rotates away from the straight edge. I will adjust the wheel each time it touches then keep doing that until the wheel will rotate and just barely touches the straight edge just slightly. In doing that the wheel should be dead center. What do you think, will that work?
Reluctor wheel hole.jpg
Old Crank with reluctor wheel hole.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Question, I am an old 60s mechanic, I never torqued bolts like this before. The engines back then were pretty straight forward, not like these. What does this mean for rod bolts, what is N-m?
Step 1 : 27.4 N·m (2.8 kg-m, 20 ft-lb)
Step 2 : 0 N·m
Step 3 : 19.6 N·m (2.0 kg-m, 14 lb-ft)
Step 4 : Rotate bolts 90°

I understand number 1 and number 4 but why would you torque a bolt to 14 lb-ft when it is already torqued to 20 ft-lb, do you loosen the bolts from 20 ft-lb to 14 lb-ft then go with the rotation. Or do you loosen the bolt to zero and retorque to 14 lb-ft. Why is it written lb-ft instead of ft-lb. I sure could use an explanation on this.

One more question. Since this is an Altima engine, would it be best to post in the Altima section about rebuilding this engine. I really like the response from you guys if you don't mind.
 

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After the first torque you back the hardware off and than re-torque, there is some instructions that make no sense.

Nm = Newton Meters

You can leave it all here if you want.
 
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Discussion Starter #88
That is why I want to stay here for this build, you and a couple of other fellows flat out know what you are talking about. I can't thank you enough for your help.

Torqueing and backing off to zero and retorking makes sense. I really do appreciate the explanation Cricki.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
I think I have the pick up wheel dead centered now. I thought about seeing if a drill bit shank would work for a centering dowel, it did, fit perfect. LOL I also clamped a centering punch to the block to check to see if it was indeed centered. I did have to bump it sprightly a couple of times but it is centered now. Below are the photos of the drill bit in the centering hole and the center punch setup.
 

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Cross them fingers but that looks pretty good. I have heard of people running starting issues due to the reluctor off centered.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Cross them fingers but that looks pretty good. I have heard of people running starting issues due to the reluctor off centered.
My stars, I sure hope that isn't the case this time. I shutter the think about going through that again.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I hate to show my ignorance. Like I have said before, I am an old 1960s mechanic, all the new car stuff is like a foreign language to me. I have the short block rebuilt now but I am ready to put the lower half of the block on, the part that the balance shaft bolts too. All the numbers after the bolts, could some one please tell me what they mean, are they the torque specs? Bolt specs? The old muscle cars I can stand my ground with, these newer cars, I can't.
Factory Manual.jpg
 

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Torque specs, use the last numbers as they are imperial, there should be an example of what they mean in the diagram in the left or right bottom corners on what ft lbs or in lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Thanks again Cricki. I posted last night, I must have not hit the post reply button.

I have looked everywhere, I can not find what to torque the bolts to on the upper oil pan section of the block. I have the sequence but not how much to torque them too. I know the bolts on the oil pan itself is 16 ft lbs. I have to clean it up so I will check back after while to see if one of you fellows know what they are. I have looked through the manual several times and haven't found it yet. Maybe I am looking too hard. lol
 

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The stamp steel lower oil pan is not 16ft/lbs. It's 61 in/lbs. The blackened wrench logo means in/lbs. For some reason, the 2008 FSM does not show what the numbers mean. I am posting a 2004 QR FSM below to show you. It has almost the same values. Anyway, as I said the lower small 10mm bolts are 61 in/lbs and the upper oil pan bolts (doesn't matter the length) are set at 16ft/lbs.

170993
 

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Discussion Starter #96
The stamp steel lower oil pan is not 16ft/lbs. It's 61 in/lbs. The blackened wrench logo means in/lbs. For some reason, the 2008 FSM does not show what the numbers mean. I am posting a 2004 QR FSM below to show you. It has almost the same values. Anyway, as I said the lower small 10mm bolts are 61 in/lbs and the upper oil pan bolts (doesn't matter the length) are set at 16ft/lbs.

View attachment 170993
Molten, I can't thank you enough for your information, I appreciate it more than you know. Perfect timing, I just got the upper oil pan cleaned and and ready to install. Thank you ever so much again.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I am about in panic mode right now. I just sent the last almost two hours getting that insert out of the rear of the crankshaft that is for an automatic transmission. They sent me an automatic transmission crankshaft instead of a 6 speed manual crankshaft. My question is: is the automatic crank and the straight stick crank the same? I am not sure the shaft of the manual transmission will fit in this pilot hole of the crankshaft. Are the pre 2007 and after 2007 2.5 cranks the same thing? Man if this transmission doesn't fit, I just trashed over $700 and no way to get more money for this engine. I could sure use some of your professional advice.
 

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Post number 6



No need for the bushing.

It's the same crank. You got this. Pop it in and go.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Tritton, thank you so much, I feel like the weight of the world just lifted off my shoulders. I will go ahead with the build now. With this engine being built with everything under the sun I was afraid the manual transmission wouldn't fit a crankshaft that had the bushing in it. That thing was a real booger bear to get out.
 

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I work for a a performance transmission shop doing only domestic automatic rwd (and 4x4) transmissions made to handle power. Alot of the guys here only speak your language, so I had a discussion, since this is the only motor I know. I figured they'd understand your plight, and indeed all of them did. My boss actually found that link and was just as surprised as you are. His eyebrows lit up and he said, "Well yeah, I'd be freaking out a little bit too". For me, having built this motor 3 times, it's just kinda standard. Sometimes we forget how daunting something new can be.
 
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