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Discussion Starter #101
I am an old 1960s mechanic so all this stuff is totally new to me. I just put a 5 speed transmission on our grandsons 90 Toyota 4X4, that was not fun. lol You have my utmost respect working with transmissions, that is not something just an everyday mechanic can do. One again Tritton, I can't thank you enough. Have a fantastic day buddy. Now on the putting new seals on the valves, and of course I gave my valve spring tool away so this should be interesting to see how to get the springs out. Oh it is easy to get the keepers off the spring, just use a socket and hammer. The down side to that is, you can kiss the keepers good bye because there is no telling where they will go. The the worse part is getting the springs back on without a spring compressor. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Getting the valve springs off and back on turned out to be no problem at all. I do have a question though. Are the exhaust valve seats replaceable? It feels like there is a lip on the inside of the seat like they can be inserts. If they are inserts, how do they come out?

The intake valves and seats look great but the valve seats on the exhaust side look slightly pitted ever so slightly. The exhaust valves look great however. I may go ahead and put the valves in and test to see if kerosene leaks out of them. That is the way I use to test the heads when I rebuilt an engine. I did narrow the seat on the valves so there would be more pressure in the valve to seat better, back then.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Trying to find something specific online is like pulling teeth, anyone have instructions how to prime a new oil pump? I don't have it mounted yet so I thought maybe it has to be primed before installation. I know how the american cars oil pump was primed years back but the pickup tube does not directly connect to the oil pump of the 2.5. I am not ready to install it yet though I am still lapping the valves on the head.

The intake valves look great, the exhaust valves have ever so slightly pits that need to be lapped out and that is taking some time. I am sure after lapping I will have to adjust the clearance on the bucket lifters.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
I dropped the engine back in today, well not exactly, it is sitting in the car. I can not get that engine back where it needs to be. It is sitting on the carriage both front and rear of the engine. This Altima engine was jury rigged in to start with. I wondered why there was spacers under the engine mount on the passenger side of the engine, now I know, it was to keep the front of the engine up off the carriage.

My problem now is I can not move the engine toward the passenger side. I have done everything I can think of, it won't move. Is there a trick to getting that engine back in? I sure hope I don't have to drop the carriage. I could sure use some advice if any one knows about this.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
I couldn't edit the post I just made. I wanted to say that the engine on the transmission end will not go down any further and it needs to go down at least an inch or two, but it is sitting on the carriage. Does the end of transmission got under the carriage some way?
 

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Discussion Starter #107
LOL, I got the transmission in too far right now, I am trying to get the whole thing toward the passenger side about and inch or so but something is stopping it. I will just keep kickin, thanks Tritton. Good to know it is just a matter of wiggling until it pops in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Happy, happy, happy, the engine is in place now, one thing I need to change and soon. I need to raise the engine on the passenger side at least 1/4 more inches. I looked and it was so close to the carriage I thought it was touching. I put a light behind it and it isn't touching but it can't be more that 2 or 3 thousands clearance there. I will feel more comfortable with another 1/4 inch.

I already have 1/2 inch spacers under the motor mount now, but it isn't enough. I was wondering why the spacers were there, now I know why. If you put an Altima 2.5 engine in a SE R Spec V body, just be aware that it will touch the under carriage with just the engine mount. The spacers have got to go under the part that bolts to the frame, not under the part that bolts to the engine. The spacers will need to be at least 3/4 inches.

I don't know how this is going to affect the rear mount against the firewall. I guess I will see soon.

This sure a pretty picture to me.
Engine is in.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #110
I got most of the engine and parts back in the car except I had to put 1 inch spacers under the front motor mount and still the engine at one point it less than 1/8 of an inch from touching the carriage. If that engine shakes a lot from no balance shaft, it will wear a hole in that part of the engine unless I can get it to move toward the driver's side at least another 1/4 inch. I may be able to modify the mount on the drivers side to get another 1/4 inch.

I wish the guy who had the bright idea to put an Altima engine in this SE R Spec V had to go through this. I have had to battle this build and install from the word go. I still have to flatten the exhaust/catalytic converter by .020. I hope to do that today as there is a bad storm headed this way so no work outside. Is there a way to tell what year this engine is?
 
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