Soo, I started putting in my head and I got the bolt to 90 ft/lbs of torque and it popped real loud. I originally thought it broke off inside (almost cried), but it backed out just fine. Take a look at the pictures below and lemme know wtf happened. These bolts are new. Do you guys think my threads in the head are bad? I don't have a tap for the head bolts.
You had a soft spot in the bolt threads, you can see how they stretched, it happens sometimes. The bolt didnt get properly tempered for the full length of the shaft. You were lucky it backed out, the times it has happened to me, I had to remove the head and use a punch to try to get the broken part of the bolt backed out enuff to grip it with vice grips or pliers or something to get it out. Sometimes you have to drill the bolt and use an easyout on it.
Ok, so I can't find anyone with ARP head bolts... Does anyone have ARP head studs? Who here knows some good head bolts and a resource to purchase them at? I've been searching the interwebz but I haven't found anyone who sells ARP studs/bolts for our 2.5l car.
I dont know if they are the same or not? They dont "officially" make them for the QR25 but Race engineering put together a kit for us. as far as TQ specs, Intense power built my engine so i dont know.
get the ones that say qr25. when i was going to build a qr25 the bolts i had were for a cosworth and they fit. but since they makes ones for the qr get those ones.
I appreciate all your guys help. When the parts come in I guess I'll be torquing down to 90ft/lbs. IF anyone can advise me otherwise I'd appreciate it.
Thanks for all the links and information!
BTW - Ash, thanks for your head tutorial, its been helping me a lot.
I put the studs in. Tightened studs to 20 ft/lbs torque so everything was even (after chasing it with a tap and blowing the head bolt holes out). Tightened nuts down to 90ft/lbs.
Should all be gooooooooood, never again will I have to buy head bolts
That sucks, but you definitely got lucky with that bolt, holy shit! Some manufacturers call for replacing the head bolts when they are removed. I'm not sure if the QR falls into this category but you are a prime example of why you should lol
EDIT: my bad, missed the part that they were BRAND new.
Old thread, didn't realize anyone posted up on here. I used ARP head studs, no re-tap, used the Ford ones. I torqued the STUDS down to about 40lbs/ft. When I put the BOLTS on though I torqued them down to 90ft/lbs.
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