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Since I've had the car, I've used these oils primarily:

M1 5w-30, 10w-30
M1 EP 5w-30, 10w-30

with either:

Purolator Pureone
Napa Gold
Mobil 1 Filter

All have performed flawlessly, as they should. But I would have no problem running any other name-brand synthetic or even dino, as long as it's changed on time.
 

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I use 0w30 Castrol Syntec(fully synthetic "made in Germany" the only weight available from Wal-Mart ;)) and Nissan OEM Filter, I don't know why you would even consider saving a few dollars for a cheap filter. Anyone else change their oil WITHOUT jacking the car? All I do is crank the wheel and boom I can reach the plug/filter no problem, makes for a quick and easy job. Is there a benefit to jacking the car up or something?
When you're dropped sitting a few inches off the floor, it's way easier.
It also helps drain the all the oil out faster.



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karl, is it bad? i use 10w30 on mine. 158,000 miles
In our climate, it won't make much of a difference. The extra engine wear you would get at startup is probably negligible. However, if you changed to a 0w I bet you'd notice easier startups and a quieter valvetrain when the engine is cold.
Climate plays a big role in oil viscosity. Anyone who lives where it freezes should most definitely run a 0w or 5w. Those who live in the desert where temps are regularly 100+ can run a 10w (0w could potentially be too thin). Also, too thick of an oil can be more damaging to a turbocharger in a cold climate than to the engine itself.
Of course, these recommendations are for a daily driven vehicle. Anyone who races and sees oil temps upwards of 300F will need something completely different. The greater the difference between the "winter" viscosity (the number before the "w") and the regular viscosity, the less shear stability it will have (since there is less base oil and more additives).
The only way to really know the proper oil viscosity to run in your vehicle is by monitoring oil temperature and pressure.
 

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When you're dropped sitting a few inches off the floor, it's way easier.
It also helps drain the all the oil out faster.
I'm dropped too and still find it easy, all that needs to fit under is your arm, you just gotta find the sweet spot and have the wheel fully cranked then no problem, I always thought if you drained you car on an angle it won't quite let all of the dirty oil drain out which makes sense when you think of all the little pockets it can pool up in inside the engine.
 

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I'm dropped too and still find it easy, all that needs to fit under is your arm, you just gotta find the sweet spot and have the wheel fully cranked then no problem, I always thought if you drained you car on an angle it won't quite let all of the dirty oil drain out which makes sense when you think of all the little pockets it can pool up in inside the engine.
lol my problem is that my oil catch pan is to tall to fit under my car unless its jacked :laughing:
 

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lol my problem is that my oil catch pan is to tall to fit under my car unless its jacked :laughing:
Gotta move the catch pan around the oil pan and have it just behind the flow, my buddies spec thats slightly lower than mine had that prob
 

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Speaking of oil changes, just did this today. $35 from advance with an online promo they have. BSR kit takes 6 qts, the deal is for 5 qts.. FML. Lol.
BSR takes one quart more than stock.

" An additional
quart of oil capacity is created by removal
of the balancer assembly, so check the oil
level carefully."

http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/QR BALANCE SHAFT REMOVAL KIT instructions.PDF

So if you keep the remaining oil from the 6th quart you can only buy 5 the next time. Thats what I do.
 

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BSR takes one quart more than stock.

" An additional
quart of oil capacity is created by removal
of the balancer assembly, so check the oil
level carefully."

http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/QR%20BALANCE%20SHAFT%20REMOVAL%20KIT%20instructions.PDF

So if you keep the remaining oil from the 6th quart you can only buy 5 the next time. Thats what I do.
I used to do that, but last oil change I found 6 full quarts fits just fine by accident... Lol. It usually takes a little more than 5.5, more like 5.75-ish in my case. I just don't want the bottle sitting there forever, and because of extra oil capacity I usually run longer intervals between oil changes.

I'm trying the synthetic "Extended Performance" Mobil 1 this time instead of just the regular synthetic. It says it has a life up to 15k miles (no racing, no towing, etc). Most of us know the 3k mile oil change is a myth, and not that I would ever allow my oil changes to go 15k miles, but it was $3 more and makes me feel safer when going through oil at 5k-7k intervals.



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I use about 6 Quarts because of BSR and Turbo.

I also consume a lil oil (the Joys of forged pistons) So I always have 1 quart in the trunk "just in case" and i check oil levels at least once a week.

Have to check exactly how much im consuming in a 3k mile interval, only had this "new" engine for 4 oil changes lol
 

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i use Castrol syntec 5w40 (because of my lower engine temps now) with either a oem or k&n filter for a VQ35DE
Why would you use a smaller filer?:thinking: The QR is slightly larger. I know because I always mix mine up with my wife's 3.5 altima. I know now the bigger is for my car.


lol my problem is that my oil catch pan is to tall to fit under my car unless its jacked :laughing:
Exactly, I ALWAYS have to jack the car up:(



I would not recommend Royal Purple to anyone (unless they're a dick). It's too expensive, and alcohol based according to the Nissan Tech. That would make sense because Royal Purple claims you can run 12,000-15,000 miles on one oil change. That's bullshit because the oil eventually evaporates after so long. I also, like an idiot, used conventional oil filters while running it so that definately didn't help.

I have used the $21 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30 from Wal-Mart and a Mobil 1 filter for years now. If I am broke I buy Wal-marts $11.50 jug of the same stuff but conventional and use a wix filter.
 

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Castrol syntec 5w30 and mobil 1 oil filter+lucas synthetic oil stabilizer, half a quart bottle per oil change... car runs good and burns no oil during the 8000 km inetrval (yes im in canada) so thats 4970.969 miles .... ill stick with this, as it works for me.... was thinking to go royal purple at one point but why bother if this works..
 

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well they say that synthetic oil can go quite long because the longer it lasts the better it works due to all the detergents in them, or something to that effect...
 

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Remember when cars didn't use detergent oil? Lmao, you didn't change the oil, you just added some.
 

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i use mobil 10w30. there was a point when i was using 15w50.

i most of the time use nissan oem filter. one time i used mobil1 filter cause it came iwth the oil.
 

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I use 0w30 Castrol Syntec(fully synthetic "made in Germany" the only weight available from Wal-Mart ;)) and Nissan OEM Filter, I don't know why you would even consider saving a few dollars for a cheap filter. Anyone else change their oil WITHOUT jacking the car? All I do is crank the wheel and boom I can reach the plug/filter no problem, makes for a quick and easy job. Is there a benefit to jacking the car up or something?
Not only do I not have to jack up my car for an oil change...I don't even need any tools!

FUMOTO ENGINEERING
 

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Why would you use a smaller filer?:thinking: The QR is slightly larger. I know because I always mix mine up with my wife's 3.5 altima. I know now the bigger is for my car.
More oil pressure. just a few psi but i take what i can.
 

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I'm currently using Royal Purple 5W30 and Nissan OE Filter

I have tried:
Castrol Conventional 5W30 (When I first bought the car)
Castrol Syn Blen 5W30
Castrol Syntec 5W30
Castrol Edge 5W30
along with Mobil 1 and K&N oil filters.

Honestly I felt the diffrence jumping to Synthetic but when moving from Castrol Edge to Royal Purple I felt no diffrence at all. :eek13:
 

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why does everyone keep saying they didn't feel anything when they switched oils? lol not like your gaining horsepower

It's called wear protection.
 
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