A Nissan Sentra Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I tried to get the balance chain unit out today. Nothing I had would even come close to fitting the bolt. Does any one have a clue what socket I need and where can I get one. Also, is there some trick to getting the head bolts out of a 2008 SE-R Spec V 2.5 engine. I have a 1500 foot pound impact and all it did was strip the inside of the allen head bolt head. I have put my 3/4 inch drive breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe and it didn't budge. Do I need heat or what? I really need to get that head off so I can rebuild this engine. I did get the pan off and I cut the bolts off the balance chain unit because nothing would break these bolts.

Number two cylinder rod cap had zero rod bearing, there was not even a sliver of one anywhere. Maybe when I get the crank out I will find it.

Here is the bolt head I need a socket for.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
This one for sure has the balance shaft, but it is a 2008. The balance shaft does have the small chain below the main timing chain, right. Maybe someone swapped engines. It does look like this engine has be into before.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,082 Posts
All the qr gens have bs. The bs bolt is a torxs bolt and they should have the socket at your local parts store in a set, it's not exactly metric/ imperial. I'll see what size it is later.

How badly did you destroy the head bolt? There is no trick but I have found breaking the torque by hand is usually the better method. You may have to shave the head if that bolt off now pending the damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
All the qr gens have bs. The bs bolt is a torxs bolt and they should have the socket at your local parts store in a set, it's not exactly metric/ imperial. I'll see what size it is later.

How badly did you destroy the head bolt? There is no trick but I have found breaking the torque by hand is usually the better method. You may have to shave the head if that bolt off now pending the damage.
The allen part of the head bolt is totally rounded out, I will have to drill the head off, there is no other way to get that bolt out. I will not use the impact on the other bolts, I will use a long pipe. I appreciate your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,836 Posts
The lower craddle bolts were extremely tight when I disassembled mine. I was surprised. I always remove it by hand and yeah I needed a big ass breaker bar. Im thinking if all else fails, drill the head off and it should come unthreaded with little effort.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The lower craddle bolts were extremely tight when I disassembled mine. I was surprised. I always remove it by hand and yeah I needed a big ass breaker bar. Im thinking if all else fails, drill the head off and it should come unthreaded with little effort.
I finally found a socket that will fit the craddle bolts, it is a E-14 Torx. You are right they were really tight.

I am so happy I don't know what to do. I did a lot of praying and it worked. I flipped the block over and let the oil drip out of the head bolt holes. I looked with a flash light, after flipping it back over, and the head bolt I thought I rounded out, looked like it wasn't stripped. I tried to push the allen down in the bolt head but it was too tight so I drove it in. To my delight the allen held and that bolt came out so I used my 3/4 drive breaker bar which will slide to where it forms a "T", every one of the head bolts came out. Oh they were really tight but they did come out.

I now have the engine totally torn down and ready to get busy find new parts. Looks like I can get by with one rod, a crankshaft kit, new bolts, complete gasket set and a set of rings. I will rehone the cylinders as they are not in too bad shape. I am undecided if I want to go back with lesser compression pistons so we won't have to buy the high dollar gas. What do y'all think? I am an old 76 year old man, I don't need speed now days. lol

I did find slivers of the rod bearing hiding in the thrust bearing journal. I am amazed we made it back home with that engine.

Any clue where I can find new bolts to replace the balance shaft, I had to grind all of them off. That was before I found the E-Torx socket would work, dad burn it. I know I can eliminate it, but I would feel more comfortable with it back in there.

I really really appreciate all of your help and expertise, thank you so much. I am sure I will be asking more questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Tritton, I thought about that but I would still need the bolts to put it back on without the chain. I wonder what happens if it does seize up. Probably mess a bunch of stuff up.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,082 Posts
There is no delete kit for the b16, unless you make one from scratch or modify the b15 to fit some how. Only thing to do is leave the chain disconnected. I did do a fully disassembly thread on that bs but would have to reload the images.

Motors have seized from the bs failing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Man that is impressive that you did a disassembly thread on the bs. Are you a professional mechanic? If you aren't, you should be, you are one knowledgeable fellow. How bad did your engine shake without the BS hooked up. I am just a daily driver, I am not into speed any more, I did all the hod roddin back in the sixties when I was a mechanic back then. I Built some pretty mean machines back then. But with all the technologies of today, can you imagine how much hp we could have had in, say, a 427 Chevy or an old Hemi. I really appreciate all your help. I am lost in today's cars, it is almost like starting over. I will see if I can locate your old thread.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top