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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After a few years of seeing couplers blow off aftermarket hard-pipes, I finally decided this needed to be addressed. I came up with a sleeve that gets epoxied to the outside of the throttle body that adds a bead for a coupler/clamp to grab onto.

The prototype was installed on a build I was doing here (a beautiful red b17 sr turbo). I installed it, then pressurized the system to well over 20psi. I gradually loosened the clamp on the throttle body until it popped off, It was pretty damn loose lol.

Anyway, here's a video of it. They are hand lathed and test fitted on a v2 throttle I have here.

Adapter

173312

173314
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How much power these things handle..let’s say piston/rod motor non cvt
anything past 300 wheel and your playing with your luck. The rods are fairly skinny. A stock turbo wont get you to that point anyway. Here's a photo of my finger next to the turbine wheel on a sentra i did a downpipe on last week, the wastegate hole is larger than the turbine hole lol:

IMG_2257.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a 400 horsepower car sitting here. Pistons, rods, cams, valve springs, aux fuel. I was hesitant to go past that with it because of the super thin cyl walls and it being open deck, along with having OEM head bolts in it. But I worked with ARP and got a head stud kit made for them so that's no longer and issue. I have block guards in development right now, so by end of summer we will have a 500 horsepower one running around. We just changed the turbo out to be able to comfortably support that much power. It is also going to be the test mule for the flex fuel system I developed.
 

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Holy christ that thing is tiny. Thats insulting to any kind of man hood!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Holy christ that thing is tiny. Thats insulting to any kind of man hood!
its so bad, here is a video comparing gen 1 and gen 2 turbo's. Its no wonder these cars torque curves look like mount Everest when you try to spin them up.

what is frustrating is a certain tuner puts out these "high" numbers, but when you look at the graph, the cars lose like 100 ft lbs by redline, so the number is basically useless.
 

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its so bad, here is a video comparing gen 1 and gen 2 turbo's. Its no wonder these cars torque curves look like mount Everest when you try to spin them up.

what is frustrating is a certain tuner puts out these "high" numbers, but when you look at the graph, the cars lose like 100 ft lbs by redline, so the number is basically useless.
it reminds me of my buddy N54 bmw 135i...shit dies off up top so badly which is horrible for drag racing
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
it reminds me of my buddy N54 bmw 135i...shit dies off up top so badly which is horrible for drag racing
Makes it horrible for most racing, you get zero off corner traction because the turbo spools up so fast, and the torque hits so hard, then by the time you get the traction, you have lost all of that torque and cant get up to speed.

But it could be great for the track .. depending on the track
Only tracks I could see that being good for are the not-timed ones XD
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Needs a gtx30r on it
too big. Did a gtx2860r on a mr16ddt a few years back, way too big. Torque curve looked like a supercharged car. These only rev out to ~6500 rpm, so you need a small frame turbo. Which is why i use subaru based turbos. You get a fairly small exhaust housing, which means quicker spool, and you have the option of basically any power level you may ever want. With a bloush 1.5xt turbo (rated to ~480), we get full boost at 4300 rpm, and holds flat to redline. Which with cams and springs I have gotten that to 8100 before we ran into high pressure fuel system cavitation issues. A vf48 gets full boost by ~3500 rpm and if you stay under 280 horspeower, it will hold torque to redline. The bloush 16g is my personal favorite for these though. Full boost by 4000 rpm, only takes 18-19psi to make 300 wheel, and leave plenty of room to get more down the road. For comparison, a certain tuner put a upgraded mambatek 19t turbo on a v1 mr16ddt, ran ~28psi and JUST touched 300 on his dyno that seems to read 15-20% higher than anyone elses. The torque curve was horrible. Full torque at ~3500 rpm, dropped 40% of it by redline.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
way too much lol I do jukes and sentra only. Ive had 3 turbo sentra's here the past week for builds. @Tritton saw a photo of my driveway last week, three jukes getting work.

But turbos: the oem exhaust housings are so small, even if you jammed a 18g wheel into the oem compressor housing, you get so much backpressure from how small the exhaust housing is you are jsut super limited with what you can do. I sell upgraded oem turbos, but I openly tell people its just a budget way to get a bigger number, if someone wants real performance they have to go with a true big turbo system. Ive done 4 big turbo builds this year already, with 3 more on deck. So people are finally getting it.

I had a sentra owner got for a ride in a 300 hp big turbo juke when he picked his car up form getting full bolt ons, I asked him if he felt the difference and he said: "yea, no way my stock turbo is gunna feel like that?" to which i said: Nope. lol
 

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This car reminds of me of srt4 in a way..small stock turbo with a “budget upgrade” stock turbo makes killer torque and handful of power
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
its the same with any oem turbo car. The issue is; people that don;t know how to read a dyno just see a high number and get all giddy. A number means nothing. You race (even on road layouts) from 4000-6500 rpm. The area under the curve in that range is all that matters. I dont care if your making 600000 ft lbs of torque at 3100 rpm, if that torque cuts down to 200 ft lbs by redline, your car is not fast. OEM turbos are made to pick up at low RPMS, because that is where the average person drives around. They are not designed to make more power than what they make.

Focus ST/RS's, Fiesta ST's are the BIGGEST place you will see this right now. They call them performance cars, but all three of those engine packages where designed for multi-chassis application. The second you start to turn the boost up, you start to see it drop off towards the top. But you have people bragging "my fiesta st made 320 ft lbs" (aka matt farah), but when you look at it drive or the dyno graph, aside from a kick in the ass when you first put your foot down, there's nothing there. I owned a focus ST. I sold it to a co-worker so I could get a Nismo Juke. He did a stage 2 cobb build on it. 280ft lbs or something like that. I put a VF48 on my juke. Kept the stock tune. Dynoed at 180AWHP on a dynojet at 14psi (20 more than stock). We raced each other on the highway a few weeks after I put it on. I WALKED HIM. once you got that car up in the RPM range, it was a fucking DOOOOOOOOG. His cobb advertised number was meaningless. lol
 
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