Here's another write-up:
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific...ecific-installation-guides-technical-info/9013-balance-shaft-chain-cutting.html
Here's the JWT write-up for their kit:
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific...ical-info/9143-jwt-balance-shaft-removal-bsr-kit-installation-instructions.html
________________________
Well.. almost free..
Many people simply cut the chain that goes to the balance shaft assembly. However, this goes a step further, and costs all of about 50 cents (maybe 5 bucks if you don't have a 1/8 NPT tap).
Tools needed:
10 and 12mm sockets
Ratchet
10 and 12mm wrenches
Extension
Medium vice grips
Drill
1/8 NPT tap and matching drill bit (5 bucks at Lowes)
Adjustable (crescent) wrench
Bolt cutters (or some other means of cutting the BS chain)
Parts needed:
1/8 NPT pipe plug (allen head/recessed type)
Silicone sealant
Brake parts cleaner
The benefit is:
Increase your oil capacity
Eliminate oil from flowing into the balance shaft assembly altogether
Keep the balance shaft housing in place to act as a "baffle" of sorts.. This keeps engine oil from sloshing way from the pickup during hard cornering. Something that the JWT kit actually doesn't do very well.
Start by removing your lower pan, cutting your chain, and removing the balance shaft assembly. I will assume that you can at least get to this point if you're contemplating doing this.
Once you have the balance shaft assembly out of the vehicle, take it apart (10mm socket). There is one bolt out of the 6 that hold it together that is a tamper proof bolt. I simply used a medium sized pair of vice grips to grab it and break it loose. It's not super tight.. Here's the bolt:
![Image]()
After taking the assembly apart, you will want to remove the balance shafts, and the 8 bearings halves (looks like little rod or main bearings). Clean them up with brake cleaner to get them semi-clean. Should look like this:
![Image]()
Next, look for the hole on the bottom (part that seats against the engine) that is an oil passage, and goes into the balance shaft cover. It is next to one of the big bolt holes, and it's the only one that is machined all the way through. Drill that hole out, all the way through using your drill bit/drill. Then, tap the BOTTOM of the hole (where it seats against the engine) with your 1/8 NPT tap.
![Image]()
After tapping the hole, test fit the pipe plug to make sure that it can be screwed down PAST the surface of the hole. You want it to go just past the surface, slightly. If your hole is tapped well enough, clean everything up with brake cleaner for final assembly.
![Image]()
Run your pipe plug into the hole, and tighten. REMEMBER TO RUN IT DOWN PAST THE SURFACE, SO THAT IT DOESN'T INTERFERE WITH SEATING ON THE BLOCK! It should look like this when you're finished:
![Image]()
Reassemble the case, minus the bearings and the shafts. You will only need to use 4 of the 6 bolts that held the assembly together. Torquing them isn't critical, nor is the bolt count, since it's just an empty shell now. There isn't any force acting on the cover, so, none of this is critical. Plus, it eliminates having to mess with the tamper proof bolt. Once assembled, just hit the 10mm bolts with an air gun, or, around 35-40ft lbs if you're anal about it. It should look like this:
![Image]()
And this on the bottom with the plug installed:
![Image]()
This pic shows the oil passage that we're plugging up once the balance shaft assembly is back in place:
![Image]()
Place the balance shaft assembly back in place, and bolt it back down. The TQ specs are 30ft lbs, then, 90 degrees.
![Image]()
Enjoy your extra oil capacity and higher pressure, since you're not feeding oil to a dead balance shaft assembly anymore.
![Image]()
Bolt your pickup tube back into place if you've removed it, put your oil pan back on, and you're good to go. You should have around 3/4 of a qt higher oil capacity now. Just fill it up slowly, and check for the exact amount when refilling.
Enjoy..
Travis
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific...ecific-installation-guides-technical-info/9013-balance-shaft-chain-cutting.html
Here's the JWT write-up for their kit:
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific...ical-info/9143-jwt-balance-shaft-removal-bsr-kit-installation-instructions.html
________________________
Well.. almost free..
Many people simply cut the chain that goes to the balance shaft assembly. However, this goes a step further, and costs all of about 50 cents (maybe 5 bucks if you don't have a 1/8 NPT tap).
Tools needed:
10 and 12mm sockets
Ratchet
10 and 12mm wrenches
Extension
Medium vice grips
Drill
1/8 NPT tap and matching drill bit (5 bucks at Lowes)
Adjustable (crescent) wrench
Bolt cutters (or some other means of cutting the BS chain)
Parts needed:
1/8 NPT pipe plug (allen head/recessed type)
Silicone sealant
Brake parts cleaner
The benefit is:
Increase your oil capacity
Eliminate oil from flowing into the balance shaft assembly altogether
Keep the balance shaft housing in place to act as a "baffle" of sorts.. This keeps engine oil from sloshing way from the pickup during hard cornering. Something that the JWT kit actually doesn't do very well.
Start by removing your lower pan, cutting your chain, and removing the balance shaft assembly. I will assume that you can at least get to this point if you're contemplating doing this.
Once you have the balance shaft assembly out of the vehicle, take it apart (10mm socket). There is one bolt out of the 6 that hold it together that is a tamper proof bolt. I simply used a medium sized pair of vice grips to grab it and break it loose. It's not super tight.. Here's the bolt:
After taking the assembly apart, you will want to remove the balance shafts, and the 8 bearings halves (looks like little rod or main bearings). Clean them up with brake cleaner to get them semi-clean. Should look like this:
Next, look for the hole on the bottom (part that seats against the engine) that is an oil passage, and goes into the balance shaft cover. It is next to one of the big bolt holes, and it's the only one that is machined all the way through. Drill that hole out, all the way through using your drill bit/drill. Then, tap the BOTTOM of the hole (where it seats against the engine) with your 1/8 NPT tap.
After tapping the hole, test fit the pipe plug to make sure that it can be screwed down PAST the surface of the hole. You want it to go just past the surface, slightly. If your hole is tapped well enough, clean everything up with brake cleaner for final assembly.
Run your pipe plug into the hole, and tighten. REMEMBER TO RUN IT DOWN PAST THE SURFACE, SO THAT IT DOESN'T INTERFERE WITH SEATING ON THE BLOCK! It should look like this when you're finished:
Reassemble the case, minus the bearings and the shafts. You will only need to use 4 of the 6 bolts that held the assembly together. Torquing them isn't critical, nor is the bolt count, since it's just an empty shell now. There isn't any force acting on the cover, so, none of this is critical. Plus, it eliminates having to mess with the tamper proof bolt. Once assembled, just hit the 10mm bolts with an air gun, or, around 35-40ft lbs if you're anal about it
. It should look like this:
And this on the bottom with the plug installed:
This pic shows the oil passage that we're plugging up once the balance shaft assembly is back in place:
Place the balance shaft assembly back in place, and bolt it back down. The TQ specs are 30ft lbs, then, 90 degrees.
Enjoy your extra oil capacity and higher pressure, since you're not feeding oil to a dead balance shaft assembly anymore.
Bolt your pickup tube back into place if you've removed it, put your oil pan back on, and you're good to go. You should have around 3/4 of a qt higher oil capacity now. Just fill it up slowly, and check for the exact amount when refilling.
Enjoy..
Travis
